MDbassin

+1 for the 2 jerk pause retrieve

Thanks for the tip I will have to check them out next time I'm in the area

I spool my reels my self. Thicker line and spooling the line on tight will help. I use 40-50lb power pro and keep good amount of tension on the line while putting it on my reel. I've never had a problem with it digging

I'm on the eastern shore. I usually just hit up Cabelas in Delaware as it's closer to me plus no sales tax and I get veteran discount. I do go to Arundel Mills sometimes and I hit up bass pro while I'm over there usually

Yea I know where your talking about it's almost a 3 hour drive from me tho

I did not know about this program st.croix has. That could be the deal sealer right there. Haha Thanks for the input. I'm still gonna do some more research and go to my local Cabelas and bass pro to see if the have these in stock and get some hands on time. I just wanted to see what the overall reaction for these rods were. Thanks again

Had other rods in mind to: Dobyns Fury/Savvy, Shimano Crucial but like I said about the G.Loomis thought I could get more bang for my buck with the Mojo or IKE series. I do a lot of jig fishing so which rod is more sensitive for this of you that have used both the Mojo and the IKE series?

I've been reading up on the avid vs Mojo and it looks like they are both made with the same ScIII blanks. The only real difference I could find on st.croix website is the Mojo is made in Mexico and the avid is made in USA I got the go ahead to order some new rods and reels and I narrowed it down to these 2. Was considering the G.Loomis E6X but was a little out of price range and thought I could get more bang for my buck with one of these 2 series of rods

Like I said that's just me. I have never had bluegill attack my braid. I even use braid on my panfish reel still never had the problem. But experiences vary. I just know I've caught the same amount of bass fishing straight braid then my buddy using Fluoro or mono

I actually find the booyah pad crasher to last longer then the live target. Plus the pad crasher has a popping version. But my go to frog is a river2sea frog

I use straight braid for everything except crankbaits. I don't like using leaders cause the more knots between you and the fish the places there are to break. Not saying they will just a chance so I run braid tied straight to my lure. I don't believe fish can see line that's just me I've used 50lb Power pro in relatively clear water with no leader and still caught fish. But in my opinion braid is the way to go: No stretch, and much more sensitive

Just wanted to get a feel for the communities feelings about these 2 rod series since they are both in the $120-$150 price range

1. Move my son from bluegill fishing to bass fishing 2. Fish more soft plastics. I tend to stick with my jigs, crankbaits, spinners etc. I want to try more soft plastics

I have been using a MH/F with 6.4:1 reel for basically everything not finesse the past year or two and it has worked but there's been challenges. So I'm thinking about broadening my rod and reel selection but on a budget. I'm gonna get a crankbait setup and jig set up for flipping and pitching. instead of getting the usual reel setups of a slower like 5.4:1 and a mid range 6.4:1 and a fast 7.1:1 or faster would a 6.8:1 work as a reel that can take the place of the 6.4:1 and 7.1:1? im just trying to find a way to cover all my bases as far as rod and reel setups go but for less money

Would you guys say finesse fishing is a clear water tactic specifically? I ask cause I always hear/read that when the fishing gets tough and they won't bite to size down finesse fish but all the water around my area is stained or muddy and I just feel a small plastic or jig the fish won't see it. I just always thought of finesse fishing as a clear water technique or for when you know the lake or pond has smaller fish that wont take a big worm or jig. Like I said I fish stained to muddy water with small to average size bass I'm almost certain that the largest fish in my area is the one I caught last year which was my PB and it was around 4.5 lbs I'd say. I guess what I'm asking is what do you do when the fish won't bite in dirty water and it's known to have fish on the smaller side

River 2 Sea spittin wa..... All the spros I've used fill with water easier/faster then all the others

Thanks for the responses. I know the jist of the different head shaped like football and stuff like that but was more so wondering what like the difference between like say his extreme football vs his grid iron football vs his mata football etc. stuff like that I will shoot him an email

Can anyone explain the difference between all the different types he has. I want to expand my jig arsenal and it seems sieberts are highly recommended but when I go to his website I am overwhelmed. There's extreme, dredge, grid iron, mata, etc and then within all those there's sub categories like arky, brush, football, dock rocker, etc. I tried reading the descriptions on them but the descriptions on them all are almost identical. Thank you for any help you can give me

$600 or less 600 being absolute max.... Also to add the storage I'm the back needs to be able to accomadate a milk crate. I have looked at a few "budget" yaks and people have said they either couldn't fit a milk crate in the back or had to modify the crate.

I wasn't looking at the tarpon the other guy @Death metal Fishing was I don't know how much he weighs.... He kind of took over my post instead of starting his own *wink,wink*

I use to take my plastics out of the bags and put them in Plano's but I noticed when the next season rolled around the lids got a little warped. Now I leave them in the bags I bought them in and put them in a back pack or in a Plano still in the bags and the lids don't warp anymore. Plus when I start running low on a particular bait I have the package to know what brand, type, size, and color to buy.... I have horrible memory

I looked at the ascend yaks and I'm thinking about the FS12T it looks good and stable enough to stand on. But I still keep running across the feel free yaks and the Hobie's and I think dang if only I could afford one. Saw a video of the Hobie mirage pro angler and the dude walked from the back to the seat and pretty much stood on the side for a second and still didn't even look like it was gonna tip

I am going to get a kayak for bass and panfish I was looking at the lure 11.5 but I can't justify spending $1200 on something I'm not sure I'm going to like. So I was looking at the moken 12.5. But its still a little pricey. Could you guys point me in a direction to look at and what to stay away from I'm looking at the $600 and less range. I don't care about speed, I am a heavier guy (230lb) so a higher weight capacity is great and stable if its not suitable for standing I guess I could always purchase or make some outriggers to stabilize it. I was looking at the field and stream eagle talon and the emotion stealth 11 angler. Don't care about a console to add electronics later I don't plan to add fish finder to the yak. Maybe after I decide I like kayak fishing I will upgrade to the lure 11.5. Any help would be appreciated

I have a MHF rod with a 6.4:1 reel so I should just use that for my lipless cranks? And a MM rod with a 5.4:1 or so would be good for my other cranks

Was wondering 2 things first what is your favorite crankbait rod I was looking at St.Croix mojo crankbait rod, Abu Garcia veritas 2.0 winch crankbait rod, and Duckett micro magic. Probably a few more i camt recall right now I was mostly scrolling through TW and looking for medium moderate rods which brings me to my second question. I read that for cranks and baits with treble hooks a moderate action is best but some people say square bills and lipless you should use something different. I use lipless cranks, square bills and shallow divers 6-7 ft range that's it... So will I not benefit from the MM rods or is MM still ideal for my applications? If not what power and action should I be looking for? Thank you