king fisher

Beware of the man with one gun, he probably knows how to shoot it. Same goes with fishing lures. When I was a kid I would go a whole summer with one lure. One summer it was a River Runt I found on the shore just after loosing my only Heddon Sonic. It didn't dive deep so I caught most of my fish near the surface. Sometime I would put a weight ahead of the lure and catch some a little deeper, I avoided the bottom at all costs, because if I lost the lure I would be back to bobber fishing with a night crawler. Now I have a more disposable income, and the bait monkey and I are best friends. I don't catch any more fish than I did back then, but I have a great lure collection.

I start with a spinner bait most of the time. I start off fishing it fast on the surface, if that doesn't work I slow down and fish mid depth, finally I will slow roll it along the bottom. If that doesn't work I find another place to fish. If I catch fish on the surface, I will try a buzz bait, or other fast moving surface lure to see if it preforms better. If I catch some in the middle of the water column, I will try swim baits, crank baits, and chatter baits to see if one of those is a better choice. If I catch them slow rolling, then I will switch to jigs, or soft plastics. Sometimes I switch back to the spinner bait, but usually I find another lure that works better. I love the rare days, when they hit a spinner bait any way I fish it and I never have to take it off.

I have way to many crank baits that I have collected over the years, and buy new ones every year. Hard to imagine starting from scratch. If just getting started with crank baits, I would go to Academy sports and buy a variety of models, colors, and sizes. They are inexpensive, and catch fish. As you fish and find a style, size and color that work on your water, consider buying something similar from a more expensive brand. Less chance of having expensive baits in your box that you never use. Size 1/4 to 3/4 oz., 3 to 20 ft. deep, colors, shad, crawdad, something with chartreuse in it.

I have tested and used many braid to leader knots. For years I only used Uni to Uni. It worked fine, but when I tested the knot against other knots it was by far weaker than Alberto or FG. Even though I caught Thousands of fish with a uni to uni, the test results made me switch. I use FG which is the strongest in tests, with heavy line, leaders 50 lbs. and above. With practice I can tie it correctly in a rocking boat with out any difficulties. The Alberto is as easy for me to tie as the uni to uni, and has the added advantage of going through the guides better. this is a big advantage when you are using 20 lbs, or larger floro leader. As with most knots, the Alberto tied incorrectly will fail. The leader tag end must be trimmed as close as possible to avoid the main line from constantly catching in between the main line and tag, becoming weak in that spot. The wraps have to slide all the way down the knot when tightened, to avoid from slipping a fraction of an millimeter, breaking the knot where the line enters. and the knot should mostly be tightened with the tag end. There are a few good Utube videos, on how to tie both the FG and Alberto, but some do not show either knot correctly.

Maxima Ultra green

I like my Outback. I really like the stability. I flipped it over a few times on purpose, even in a big chop, it takes a concerted effort to flip, I don't see much chance flipping over on accident, but anything can happen. Getting it tuned back over and in was not a problem. It is heavy in the surf. Much more difficult to launch from the beach than lighter kayaks. I spent half a day practicing launching in small to medium surf at a place I paddle surf regularly. Got knocked over a couple times, and would not want to try launching in the same conditions, with any gear I didn't want to loose or break. Have landed some jacks and snook. Will give it a try for bass this weekend. I think it will be the perfect kayak for the fresh water lakes I fish. Will have to pick my launch spots carefully in the ocean. Thanks for the cartopping tip.

I got them to come down a bit in price on the Outback so I bought it. Tried it out in the bay this morning and love it. Was a little heavy to get on and off of the car, but I can usually find someone to help. I was surprised at how stable it is. can stand up and cast no problem. Speed was about the same as the old revolution a neighbor let me try. I think the turbo fins might be what made the difference, because the Rev. is lighter, and slimmer, should be faster. I'm going to launch from the beach and try to catch a rooster fish tomorrow, bass fishing at lake Chapala next week end. Any recommendations on accessories I should get?

I think that would be my choice. Unfortunately, the dealer here does not offer a 180 upgrade. I would have to buy a 180 drive and keep the one that comes with the compass for a spare. Do you use the reverse? Is it important for the way you fish, or more of a gimmick?

I'm buying a new Kayak. I have narrowed the choices down to two that are available at a dealer here in Puerto Vallarta. I will be using it for both bass in freshwater, and inshore saltwater fishing. The Compass is .$1000 less, but does not have the 180 turbo drive system. The Outback has the 180 turbo drive system. Has anyone used both? Do you think the reverse, and extra storage is worth the added cost and weight? I will not be able to demo either boat. The only pedal Kayak I have tried was a friends 11' Hobie Revolution. I liked the Revolution, but am looking for a more stable platform. I am 6'1" and weigh 200 lbs. Will be transporting Kayak on the roof of a Toyota RAV 4 when I go bass fishing. The Salt water fishing will be off a dock in a marina. Thanks in advance

A fish can see more than just the bottom of a surface lure. I can take a lure and hold it straight above my head. All that is visible is the bottom. If I move it around so that I am looking at the lure from other angles while still keeping it above my head. I can see more than just the bottom color. At some angles I can see almost all of the lure. I can't say whether the fish care what color it is, but I can tell you they see more than just the bottom color. For those that might say this isn't the case in the water, I have done the same experiment in the water with same results. I believe as with other types of fishing color doesn't always matter, but there are times when it makes a big difference.

I wouldn't fish them if I thought there was a chance of hooking the fish of a life time only to real in a bill. For everyday use on a lake where I wont be hooking any fish to cry over if lost, than I feel it is better to loose a fish once in a great while, than not hook as many fish in the first place. I will be fishing a DT 10 this weekend.

The Rapala DT series are my favorite crank baits, even though I have had bills separate for no reason. They catch fish when my other crank baits fail, so I just live with the fact that some will break. I have never had this problem with any other balsa lures made by Rapala and I have landed some species of fish on almost every lure Rapala has made. Maybe some day they will quit telling every one the problem is abuse and make them more durable. They are a best seller. so that probably wont happen. I wouldn't want them to change if it effected the fish catching ability. At least they are not expensive and catch fish, I guess two out of three aint bad.

I have personally or had clients land thousnands of King salmon from 30 to 60 pounds on line as light as 15 pound test with both floro and mono. I have become proficient at most popular knots, done many knot tests on all types of lines. Results of tests have made me switch from one favorite knot to another. Years ago I landed many big fish with light line using an improved clinch, but that doesn't mean a San Diego Jam is not a better knot, because it is. I used a palamar for years before I learned I was tying it wrong. Landed many large fish with it but now tie it correctly, may save me a fish some day. It doesn't hurt to learn and use a knot that tests higher than an old favorite. Likewise a person doesn't have to set a drag with a scale to catch a big fish, but it sure doesn't hurt. Using a scale for setting drags is standard practice in salt water. I readily admit, that I have lost many big fish over the years to knot failure. The knot is the weakest link, and will fail if to much force is applied. I have yet to have a knot I have tested be 100 percent. Even Bimmini twists will break before the main line does. Most knots will break just above the knot, making people believe it wasn't the knot that broke. In reality when enough force is applied the knot slips a fraction of an inch, causing the line to break where it slipped. I will say I have had more knot failures with floro, than mono, but do use floro when I determine I need to which is way less often than just a few years ago. I have a friend that told me he never had a knot break, I told him it was just like the time he claimed he never missed a big game animal. Not lying, just a short memory. Any one who has fished long enough, has had knot, line, and other equipment failure. Keeping these failures to a minimum has always bee my goal. Landing a large salmon, trout, or saltwater fish with light line is easy most of the time. I have had clients that were poor beginners land salmon more than twice the line strength, even in strong current. The right drag setting and patience is all that is needed. The same angler would never have pulled a double digit bass away from the typical cover a bass lives in. Landing a large bass on light line is another story. I have never landed a double digit bass let alone one on light line. Trying to pull a bass that large out of the middle of a tree would have to stress the line, knot and angler skill to the very maximum. It would be nice to know exactly how much pressure could be applied, and that the very best knot and line are being used. Of course a little luck doesn't hurt.

Have you done any tests on the amount of stretch floro has? I'm sitting here with about a yard of 12 pouond Sunline Sniper, and the same amount of 12 pound Ande Premium mono. Just by pulling the two by hand, I can't determine any difference in stretch. I know this is not a scientific test, that is why I'm asking how much difference in stretch there is when an actual mechanical test is preformed. I know the manufactures claim very little stretch with floro, but I don't seem to notice a big difference. I might be wrong, most of my experience with floro, is with leader only.

When I first got my CT I thought I was an expert caster and wound't need to use the mag brake at all. I set the mag brake on 0 adjusted the spool tension to just a little play, and tried to cast a three ounce lure with a nine foot rod as hard as possible. Definitely was my longest cast, to bad the line didn't stay attached to the lure, which I had to paddle a surf board out to retrieve. Discovered an easy way to get a backlash undone. Process involves a sharp knife and a garbage can. Surprised there are no Utube videos of this can't fail method to undue a backlash.

Glad to know it's not just me. It has become second nature to add a touch of thumb early in the cast.

I have been fishing bait casters for years mostly Shimano and Ambassadors. Recently I purchased my first Diawa, and liked it so much I bought two more, two Tatula CT and one Coastal. I have cast one of them almost every day for the past few months. I have found, when maximum distance casting, I feel I have to break with my thumb, much more in the first third of my cast and less towards the end than the other brands of reels I have owned. My other reels I rarely use my thumb in the beginning, but always thumb the spool towards the end. Doesn't bother me at all now that I'm used to it, very happy with the distance I get. I was just curious if anyone else feels this way, or if it is just my casting style, and or imagination.

I break a river down to four categories. Slow moving runs and flats, with little current. Riffles, with medium to strong current. Holes. Tail outs of wholes, and runs. Fish in tail outs and riffles will be very actively feeding. Holes and slow runs will have both active and resting fish. I fish the tail out of a hole first, then work my way to the head. Within these four categories will be many prime locations. Usually a rock, tree, undercut bank, or any other current break or ambush location. Current seams can be very productive, especially at the head of deep holes. Fish may rest in a deep hole most of the day, then move in to feeling lanes in faster water to feed. Current breaks, such as large rocks can have resting fish even in faster water. I always fish the faster feeding lanes first, then slow down and fish the deeper holes and slow flats. Even a lazy resting fish will hit a properly presented lure in most rivers. Fish in moving water wont pass up many opportunities for an easy meal.

I have bought lots of used equipment off of Ebay. I have had mostly good experiences. What does surprise me is the number of people trying to sell used rod's, reels, even lures for the same price you can buy new on sale.. I wont pay more than 60% of what a rod or reel would cost new. If the seller is honest I get a good deal, if not I hope to make up for the loss on the next purchase. I saw a travel rod a couple of weeks ago, price was good, rod looked new, still had the case. Price was high but was the exact rod I had been looking for quite awhile. Was about to purchase, then noticed all the pictures only had two pieces of a three piece rod. Another time I could tell by the guide wraps that a two piece rod did not have matching pieces. I look on Ebay everyday and enjoy trying to find deals. If you don't have fun looking, than I would wouldn't waste my time and buy new. Good deals are rare and take lots of time finding.

I have used FG knot for salt water for many years. For lighter line, I prefer to use the Crazy Alberto. I used Double Uni for years, and it worked well too. I did do some knot tests with a scale, and found the FG to be the strongest, next was the Crazy Albert. , Double uni, and double nail knot tested equal, with blood and triple surgeons coming in last. Tests were done with many different pound tests. In the real world of fishing I have had success with all knots listed. Because of my tests results, and others I have seen on U Tube, I do not use blood or surgeons knots for braid. Again, I'm not saying they don't work, just prefer taking my test results and applying the knowledge to my fishing. I use the FG with any leader over 20 lbs. as long as the braid is less diameter than the leader. With lighter line I am very happy with the Alberto, not as strong, or as small as the FG but close in size and strength. Double Uni is easy to tie, holds well, but is bulky especially if using a heavy or stiff leader. The past year I have used braid, less than in the past, and usually don't use any leader at all. When I don't want to tie braid direct to the lure, I'm more likely to just use straight mono or floro. Salt water I have gone to hollow braid spliced, avoiding knots all together.

Thanks. Good picture. Definitely looks like a bluegill

Does anyone have a picture of a two to three inch bluegill? I have never seen a fry size bluegill. I know rainbow trout that size do not look much like a rainbow that is 6 inches or more. The rainbow fry are silver dark back with large par spots. After they grow to roughly 5 inches they look like adult rainbow trout. I was wondering if small bluegill, sunfish, perch and other pan fish are the same. Most lures imitate mature bluegill. Is there a difference in color patterns between fry and mature bait fish. Of course many baits are as large as mature pan fish or trout and the colors I am used to seeing would be correct. I have had good luck when bass are feeding on Bluegill with baits that have some chartreuse, and purple in them.

Diawa BG is heavy for light fresh water fishing, but if you don't mind the weight, or might use it in Salt Water, by far the best in the $100 price range. Prefer mine over other brands costing twice as much, and I have been a Shimano fan my whole life.

If catching fish is your only goal, than yes you can have to much tackle. If experimenting with different lures techniques, or just plain enjoy variety, than no. Some days I spend more time changing lures than fishing. Especially if they are really biting. Slow days I experiment less. When I really want to catch fish, I rely on a few lures. Besides, nothing is better than when your friend has to beg for the only lure working. Hasn't happen to me yet, but the Bait Monkey assures me it will some day.

I Make my living big game fishing on the Pacific coast of Mexico. When the super braids came out it completely changed the game. I couldn't even imagine ever going back to mono as a main line. All my rods are braid with floro leaders, or mono top shots. I can correctly tie almost any knot used with braid, direct to lure, braid to floro, braid to mono, hollow splice and more. I only give this back ground because I want to make it clear, I do know how and do tie all my gear correctly. When I started bass fishing again a few years ago after many years away from the sport, I naturally thought I should use braid for everything. It worked and I caught lots of bass. I have gone back to using mostly mono for my bass fishing, because in many situations, I don't see a great advantage to braid. I do feel that tangles are more difficult to deal with,and I don't like having to fool with leaders if I don't have to. I have done many knot tests with a crane and scales and will tell you that all the popular knots I tested with braid will broke at 75% or less. The break is usually about 1/8 inch above the knot on most knots. I realize that doesn't really mater if you are using 50 pound line. Even at 50% break strength 25 pound is more than enough to land any bass. Even with lighter braid there isn't a problem because most peoples leaders are significantly lighter than the braid. You can get over 90% strength with hollow braid splices but that is not applicable for most bass fishing. My point being that braid is great line, it is by far the best line in many situations,(punching, frogging, many others) lasts forever, doesn't stretch, very strong for diameter, and is the line preferred by many great bass fishermen. However I personally believe in many situations, mono works as well with less hassle. I also believe mono holds knots better than both braid and floro. That does not mean that your knots with braid are going to break. I'm sure many people here have landed way more bass than me without knot failure. I just don't get why more people don't use mono more, and braid as a specialty line.