jimmyjoe

Thank you for the CCS numbers! jj

Very interesting. I think I'll make a phone call to Shimano. I'd like to see whether the face width of the gears are different or not. jj

Ain't that the truth! I'm just glad I've never been impatient like that! ?? ?? ??

Yeah, I see a difference in end caps between this and this At first I thought it was just the lighting, but now I see the connector on the cap looks different. Best things I know are either look at the schematics for each or else call Shimano in California. Other than that, I have no clue don't know. ? jj

I don't use them. If, for some reason, one of my rods would be damaged, I want to be able to see it right away, not later when I take the rod cover off. Just me. jj

I see that now. You're talking about the two little ribs on the pad? jj

Shimano reels are sometimes advertised primarily by the retrieve ratio; PG for Power Gear (5.0:1), HG for High Gear (7.4:1), and XG for Extra-high Gear (8.5:1). The Curado 200 series is classified that way. But guess what they call the Curado between the PG and the HG, the one that is 6.2:1? Yup, you guessed it! They just call it the "200 K". No extra gear-ratio designation at all. That's the way they are on the Shimano website. Now you know why I said "Advertisers" and included the three roll-eyes emojis. Admen and marketing can ruin the best work of engineers and manufacturing. Hope this helped. jj

Advertisers. ??? Look on Shimano's website. That will clear things up. jj

When I'm catching fish, I don't care about "techniques". When I'm not catching fish, I may or may not care about "techniques". Depends. I can be curious, but at my age, I don't get too excited about it. jj

Thanks for the info! Let me pick this apart in the order I would for casters. Remember: this is only my opinion. For topwater and poppers, there's not a difference in my mind. The $200-350 segment is so competitive that you can go either way .... and people do, quite successfully. In that price segment, ANY reel that you buy better be both smooth and durable. Period. If you wish to discuss the 100-150 size, then my opinion is Shimano. Your answer indicates that you're open to a wide range of prices. In my mind, nothing can beat the Shimano Bantam mgl 150 at $350. It's smooth, it's strong, and all indications are that it will be durable and have good resale value. It also handles braid, nylon and fluorocarbon with equal aplomb. But you need to remember that I'm making that statement as a person who likes centrifugal braking systems over magnetic. You might not feel the same way. Whatever you decide, I wish you good luck! jj

Here we have another question about "better". What do you mean by "better"? Do you mean: 1) Spinning or casting? 2 ) More durable? Not much difference. 3 ) More refined? This begs the question, "refined FOR WHAT?". Both companies have ultra-refined reels at the top. Both have reels that are less refined at the bottom. Mass production methods mean that you are more likely to get a lemon at the bottom of the price structure. I'd give an edge here to Shimano for casting, and Daiwa for spinning, but not by a lot. 4) Better for certain techniques? Tell us which techniques you're targeting and we'll be better able to give you an answer. 5) Which size? There's a lot of difference between the market in 150-size reels and the market for the big stuff that is used for large swimbaits. Generally, Shimano and ABU rule for big stuff in freshwater. 6) and BTW .... which section of that price structure interests you? Are you interested in only the high end, only the low end, or only the middle section? That middle section is VERY competitive. If you have certain specific answers that you require, give us a little more info and we will help you all we can. That's why a lot of the people hang out here. ??? jj

Fashion. Fifty years ago I caught fish on a fiberglass rod that was connected to an aluminum reel seat by means of a collet. It worked. jj

Just another example of "believe what you see in front of you with your own eyes." If it works for you, that's fine. Sometimes you can't figure out why other people are having problems, no matter how curious you are. You're you, and they're them. Fish and be happy! I hope you have good luck! ??? jj

This post couldn't have been brought up at a better time for me. I decided to try tubes this year and major ice-out isn't far away!. Thnx. jj

I was looking at some of the saws that you guys had mentioned here, when I came upon something I didn't even know existed: the Skilsaw worm-drive jobsite table saw, #SPT99-12. I had always liked the wormdrive portables, but they were expensive. This thing is competitively priced, so I have to assume that it is asian-made. Anyone know anything about it other than that? jj

If it were me, I would take the metal Stradic 2500FL. I have one of those and two Stradic Ci4+ reels in 2500 size. I used the metal reel for braid. I used the plastic reels for braid at first, but then changed over to nylon. I think the biggest factor in your choice will be which line you wish to use. Good luck! jj

I think you're right about the Curado 200K. In the Shimano stable, you need to go to the high-end round reels or a 300-size to get a gutsier reel. The Curado 70 MGL is kinda the poor man's Aldebaran, and the Aldebaran is kinda the rich man's Curado 70. At least, that's the way I look at it. I have the 70, I love it, and I'm not interested in the Aldebaran for what I do. I don't go extremely light. I don't have any DC reels, so I can't comment there. The way I look at the Chronarch is that it's a smaller, lighter and more refined Curado. Of all the reels that Shimano makes, the Chronarch is the one that I understand the least for freshwater. But if I were fishing inshore, it would be the one I'd look at first. I hope this little bit helps you. Good luck! jj

That's a good point regarding the warranties. However, I think we have two different issues here. 1) You (and others) have stated that you don't care who makes your reel or rod, only that it performs to your expectations and is backed by warranty. That's fine. You have every right to spend your money the way you please, and no one, not I or anyone else, should tell you how to spend it or where to spend it. I have the same right. The only difference between you and me is that I would like to know some things about the gear I'm buying. Is it life and death? No, of course it's not. Sometimes, it's no more than idle curiosity. I'd just like to know. However ....... when I get a runaround for an answer, or I get conflicting answers, or I get a counter-question such as, "Why do you want to know that?", then like I said, alarms bells go off for me. To me, that sort of reaction implies that someone is trying to hide something. I don't like that. I think there are others who don't like it either. The first two posts after the OP were of that nature. Dismissive. Denigrating. The implication seemed to be that the OP had no right to ask that question. Of course he has the right to ask that question. 2) After that, issues were raised that had NOTHING to do with the OP's question. For instance, he asked about rods, not reels. And timeframes for this or that had nothing to do with the OP's question, either. And you are correct that the OP was asking for feedback from members here. Being told that reviews on the company website should be a major factor in his decision does not contribute to that. I'm sure that he's capable of reading those himself, and of trusting them if he so chooses. As for me, I don't trust them. Like I said, maybe that means that I'm just an old curmudgeon. That's why I included that as a disclaimer. I went fishing yesterday. I had fun. I'm going fishing tomorrow. I expect to have fun. When you go fishing, I hope you have fun. ? jj

^^^^^ If you're using braid with bottom contract and think you're getting fewer fish, try a rod with a softer tip. Walleye rods come to mind; they excel at that sort of fishing technique. Good luck! jj

Walked into my favorite retailer this week. The manager, who knows me, told me quietly that if there was anything I saw that I might need, that I should get it now and don't delay. He mentioned multiple unanswered orders from his suppliers, and said that he's afraid it won't get better quickly enough to re-energize the season. I don't know. After all, it's just his opinion. jj

I'm familiar with that rod. It has a soft tip, so I used it for smaller cranks. IMO, not a good jig rod. They had one that was like 5'-08" or 5'-09" that was a great jig rod. Friend of mine has it, and he loves it. Yes, you might want to consider a St. Croix Avid-X 6'-06" ML/F or 6'-09 ML/XF. Try them in a store, though. Some people think that they feel "heavy". I don't; I think they feel fine. I have the 7' ML/F, and I've used it with both braid and mono. I have mono on it right now. It's my favorite spinning rod. Be aware that choice of line can have a huge effect on the "feel" of the rig. Whichever way you go, I wish you good luck! jj

I beg to differ! The nurses in the hospital emergency room say that those blades cut EXTREMELY well! ??? jj

Exactly! I agree 100%! ?? JJ

Don't worry. I've landed over a dozen pike on 4 lb. mono. Yes, I had the line cut or broke a few times, but I was not spooled. I also have a setup with 6 lb. mono. I've landed pike with that, and I have never lost the fight. This was in water that had no obstructions, of course. I have a suspicion that many fishermen underestimate their drag setting, and thereby underestimate how much pull they can exert on a fish. Either that, or they underestimate how much pull they can actually put on a given test line. Either way, you don't baby a fish, especially a big fish. You fight them to within an ounce of the capacity of your rig. And believe me, with 14 lb. mono, that's gonna be one heck of a fight! jj

The price Kistler charges has to stand up to the forces of the marketplace. If it doesn't, then Kistler falls. If it does, then criticism is just FOMO. Be patient; time will tell. ?? jj