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NathanDLTH

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Everything posted by NathanDLTH

  1. 7ft ML/F- braid to leader or straight flouro, somewhere between 6-10lbs 6’9 M/F- braid to leader or 8-12lb flouro 7ft MH/F I’d probably run braid since you mentioned top water, probably 40lb braid. If you want to tie a leader 15lb flouro would be good. If you are unfamiliar with tying leader knots YouTube is your friend. I’d start with the double uni then move up to thinner knots.
  2. I like straight flouro or braid to leader. If I’m running flouro it’s 17-20, braid to leader goes 40-50 to 17-20. In off chance I’m running straight braid then it’s more than likely 50lb braid. I’m finding if I’m running a mod/Fast or mod action rod that I like braid to leader better or straight braid chatterbait and spinnerbaits.
  3. Thanks. Is it worth trying to bend back or buy new?
  4. Well. This sums up my season of fishing. Bent my handle on my Zillion SV. Don’t know when. Any recommendations?
  5. If you’re looking at a Tatula Elite, take a hard look at the 7’3 Ehler Multi-Purpose rod. Have it and love it. Transmits bites well, can walk topwater and handles spinnerbaits okay. I think there will be a new Randy Howell rod this year too, which is designed to be a multi-purpose rod too. Both would fit what you’re looking for.
  6. My three braids I use for baitcasters are 30, 50, and 65(frogging/flipping n punching). The application you are describing 20 or 30lb braid is fine, if you want a leader I’d say 12-16lb flouro. No need for 50 unless you’re in thick stuff.
  7. Was waiting for your decision.
  8. Following. Lots good info here. Wow.
  9. Question for y’all. Is there a lake or river or pond in Minnesota which holds Spotted Bass?
  10. If your goal is weightless plastics/finesse at the most a medium, I’d even consider a medium light. Reel is a solid choice, however I don’t think 8lb braid on a baitcaster is a good idea. Braid especially on a baitcaster has a tendency to dig into itself. I’d do 15-30 lb braid then tie a leader on.
  11. A Mod/Fast is what most people would use for spinner/chatterbaits, but there are a couple popular YouTubers that would recommend a Mod/Fast for jigs. Look them up if you want. As for the rest of your concern with St. Croix, they are a stiffer blank by far and the trouble is not everyone likes that. I had one St. Croix which was an AvidX, fished in maybe four times then sold it. Didn't like that rod at all. Nothing about it. Fast forward a couple years and now I have a G-Loomis GLX and love it, but it's a completely different animal. Croix's are typically heavier rods. In my limited experience with G-Loomis, they run pretty true in power and action, what sets them apart is the way bites are transmitted from the bait to you. Dobyns tend to fish a power lighter or so it seems, but their tip section is excellent for cast, pitching, flipping, and frogging it would seem. I love my Dobyns, super comfortable in my hand and very easy to cast accurately. As for the lateral move from a Mojo the Serria Series from Dobyns is what you're gonna be looking at and from the few I've handled this would be the best choice. The tip will be soft and there will be plenty of backbone for the jigs you're throwing. If you were throwing jigs 5/8oz and up, I'd recommend a Heavy/Fast action. Do some homework and in time you'll find what you're looking for.
  12. I’m spoiled. My Tatulas and Zillions backlash very little when throwing weightless senkos, worms, and others. SV spool helps and it’s been good with weightless plastics.
  13. A couple things, leave the lighting at home and take the mojo out to fish, if your overal opinion does not change then dump the mojo. As for rods rods that are worth the extra coin I fish serveral Tatula Elites from Daiwa around the $200 range most(two are $300) and then I have a GLX and a Dobyns. For you to noticed the difference I’d say there needs to be a bigger jump in cost. Going from a Mojo Bass to a Curado is a lateral move more than anything. If you’re looking for the best bang for your buck in terms of jig rod and true power I’d look at a IMX Pro from G-Loomis or an AvidX from St. Croix. Both are gonna run you a bit more but will have a true action and will be a medium heavy or heavy power rod. My jig rod is a Dobyns 744 Champion Extreme, truly a Fast action and sensitive to feel the softest bite. If the rod is doing double duty then a medium heavy will do. My top three recommendations are St. Croix, Dobyns, and G-Loomis. They have lower price point models as well. The Curado rod does get a lot of praise as well, just never really fished one. If you’re not afraid to buy used then hunt for a killer deal, go to BPS and hold rods you like. Find what you’re looking for in rods, fish your friends rods too. It will help you gauage what you’re looking for and I think you’ve got a good start on what you want in a jig rod.
  14. I’ve broken 1 rod in the last three years of bass fishing. This year and 2017 where the worst in terms of damage and repair work, breaks where 1/4 to 1/3 down the road so they had to go in. First rod was just the tip.
  15. My go to frogs are booyah, jackall, and river2sea. Color doesn’t matter much.
  16. A heavy action rod-probably 7-7’4 depending on size. Daiwa, Shimano, G-Loomis, or Abu Garcia for brands.
  17. Today through Sunday big blow out at Joes!
  18. Check out snipershide forum, great place to do business however one needs a post count before being able to list items in the for sale forum. Also try armslist.com locally.
  19. I should of mentioned, no picture as it was lost last summer. Have no idea who made and haven’t found anything close. Thanks, I’ll check them out.
  20. Sooooo when I first got into bass fishing, a local angler gave me a couple frogs. One of these frogs was not like the other, it was a dark blue that transitioned to a dark green half way down the body, and had a mix of green/blue for legs. I realize this is a shot in the dark, but is there custom frog makers out there or is my chance of finding something similar to what I had before totally non-exsistent. I’m satisfied either way, just wanted to ask. Thanks. Nathan.
  21. @fishnkamp thank you. Yes, the bottom contact area is where my selection suffers and most of the time I’m a bank angler or co-angler in a local league. My waters here in the Midwest can vary quite a bit from gin clear to chocolate milk at times. We have some decent smallies and largies, along with some true brutes in pike and muskies. I do appreciate the time and energy to go through and help me understand where my weaknesses are and strong points. Thank you.
  22. I don’t crank hardly ever unless squarebills or divers to 0-12. My Powell does double duty for cranks and jerks along with light top water if I’m using braid or mono. My 7’4 MH is more parabolic so spinner, chatterbaits mostly. My 7’1H can handle flipping, pitching, and some punching. I have a 7’3 MH that would be okay for t-rigs, it’s cheaper so honestly I don’t care if it gets beat up. Had no problem with a 1ounce jig tonight but no fish. The other 7’3MH I’m using for swimbaits and jigs, 6:3:1 reel. The Ish frog rod is always ready for froggin or a bigger swimbait, I’m impressed by how much it can handle under load. I have a 7ft rod, it’s extra fast and I tend to rely on that for topwater and anything else. It’s my go to rod when I’m throwing baits. I think you’re wise to point out ease of skipping docks with shorter rods. I’ll look into that. For now, it’s mostly neds, senkos, finesse baits and the 7’fters work good for them. Thank you for the reply. Nathan
  23. The local store I work and shop at (very dangerous for an angler) has quoted September in terms of preorders. Wouldn’t be surprised if Shimano is running behind on production of the Curado DC either.

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