Wayne P.

Dual purpose minimum group 27 size. You need the reserve capacity to run all the stuff hooked to it plus starting the motor.

Your reel is not "rated" for any line. It states how much in yards of the typical diameter 12# line it will hold. That is it, nothing more or nothing less.

Yes, PM sent

Try reducing the amount of filaments in the weedguard or spread it apart so the hook point is not as protected with the solid mass of filaments.

That sounds like bad news ( you may need to replace the brushes/and or rebuild the trim/tilt motor ). Good luck.

Yes, I've done it for 30+ years. IF you get interfence ( which I doubt with that motor ) you can always do the separate battery thing.

On the trim/tilt, swap the two relays that "click" and see if the symptoms reverse (won't go up). If so replace both of them. Is the battery completely charged and terminals clean and tight?

If you need hull mounted pitot tube, let me know. I took mine off before I even used the boat because I knew it wouldn't last a minute in the stumps where I fish.

The specs on that unit look good. With the quoted from advertizement: "Dakota 10 comes with built-in worldwide basemap, so you can navigate anywhere with ease. Adding more maps is easy with Garmin's wide array of detailed topographic, marine and road maps, which can be loaded to internal memory.", it can be as useful as any other handheld model with lake mapping capability.

The X-47 is 200 khz. I looked up the NMEA 2000 Networking info (pre ethernet) and the X-125 is not compatable with it either. That didn't happen until the later issue X-135.

I agree with suicidenemesis. I don't use that rough line either and I have been using superlines since the introduction of the Kelvar (pre-Spiderwire).

They offer a little more resistance to landing than a 5#

tand, 5 turns on each side of the knot is enough to hold as strong as the line is. A longer knot is useful only when it passes thru the rod tip during the cast and adds no additional strength. Your excessive loop method may even cause breakage near the knot due to friction trying to tighen up all those loops (wetted or not).

endless, check the Spottsylvania County Parks and Recreation site for the permit prices. I have a season permit but it is at "old folks" price. The yearly launch fee for non-county residents is $35.

It's quite common on the Tidal Potomac River.

I usually start with 3'-5' because I use 20# fluorocarbon leader for weight to make the superline sink for weighless presentations. I replace it when I retie enought to get down to about 2'. Having a leader that is long enough to wrap around the reel spool defeats one of the best attributes of superline (no memory).

BigEbass, speed with that type of boat is a non-issue. There is too much hull drag to make a lot of difference in the max HP set-ups. My garage space was one of the determining factors in my choice. At one time, I had an 18' fiberglass bass boat/trailer, a 12' jon boat on trailer, an ATV on a trailer, and a 10' jon boat hanging from the ceiling. Now I have the Tracker and the ATV, I keep the trash cans in it now too, LOL. Of course the other three vehicles have to sit out in the heat/cold/snow/rain/pollen. One has to make choices.

BigEbass, the PT170TX is 2" longer and 11" wider than the Pro 16-that equates to a lot more stability and the higher HP/load rating. That is why I chose the 170 since I fish alone most of the time but take one to two anglers with me occasionally. Either way I would have a 9.9 4-stroke on it for the waters I fish the most. I have seen a couple of anglers ( not real heavy weights either) fishing in the Pro 16 and every body movement is exaggerated with the hull rocking. The guy up front had a pro pole and looked like he was in danger of being thrown out when his partner would move around on the back deck.

The only way you can prevent the two transducers for interfering with each other is to fish shallow enough to keep the cones from overlapping each other. The connection used for sharing a single transducer is the Network. You can check all the parts needed on the Lowrance site.

Yep, sure do, and Gadabout Gaddis (The Flying Fisherman) also.

Good advice Hammer 4. The longer knot goes thru the rod guides better.

Use the uni-uni knot. The lines can't cut each other because they don't cross each other, they just wrap around each other and will slide along on each other.

New Angler,I tried to answer your PM but I got a message that you were not accepting PM's from me. Good luck.

I have done it that way with numerous sonar units with no interference and have only had one unit that had interference and that one was on a Motor Guide variable speed about 20 years ago. You can try it that way and if you get interference, then you can wire it directly to the battery and may still get interference. You may have to use a separate battery or use some of the interference kit solutions available.

Dink, get one of these or a similar thermometer to verify what your sensor is reading: http://www.target.com/dp/B000QCVCF4/ref=sc_qi_img_viewdetails?ie=UTF8&title=view%20full%20details