Wayne P.

Google knows about them, but not the thrust they have.

The shield and center wire are too fragile for the TV cable screw down fittings.

You can probably find a suitable plug set at Radio Shack. One that is at least semi-weather proof should be your choice. Gold plated contact points are a desired trait also.

The application you mention is done commercially with the trolling motors that have built-in transducers. I have an Alumaducer that is adaptable to various sonar units via plug ins.

Top producer in timber filled waters is a weedless wacky rigged Trick or finesse worm. Covers depths from 0' to 30' plus.

The D31M battery is only 75 ah capacity. That is the same capacity of a group 24 conventional deep cycle battery. Most fishermen use at least a group 27 deep cycle with around 100 ah capacity.

I use Fireline Braid and Samurai. Samurai is the smoothest, and quietest. No other superline is even close.

Aluma-Bass, yes I did see her with the SI next to a tree that was horizonal with the butt end just above the water line. The water depth was around 5'. It's tough to figure if the white spots are fish or something else, but that white spot took my weedless wacky finesse worm. I wish I had done a screen shot before I cast but during the fight and landing, the tree and fish scrolled off the screen before I could get a screen shot It's like sight fishing without actually seeing the fish.

The fluorocarbon leader make-up is usually a stiffer, harder surface material. I just use regular fluorocarbon fishing line. A leader can be any material, nylon mono, fluorocarbon, another superline, etc.

The Speed Charger I had allowed a setting for deep cycle or conventional batteries. I had the 2-6-10-manual. Speed Charger is just a name and are made in different capacities and charge rates. It worked very well for several years and I gave it to the person that bought one of my boats.

VABasser, she was only 7# 11 ounces.

The guy with the two electric outboards told me he switched to 6V batteries this year from the 12V he was using to get a longer run time. Whatever battery life he got was only needed for about a mile run each way. He just liked to get there first and wanted to fish longer before returning to the ramp. My Tracker has a 9.9 4-stroke and it only goes 7.5 mph on a cool day when I can get the whole 6,000 rpm with a 6.5 pitch prop.

Hold your rod tip close to or at water level. I fish weightless or very light weighted plastics in windy conditions a lot. When a fish sucks in a plastic worm, you can feel it even with a giant bow in the line in a cross wind, you can see the line jump also. Cast down wind for less line bow. Even if you don't feel or see the take, when your line bow lessens, SET THE HOOK. I use 30# superline. NO PROBLEM

Some are one beds but not widespread. With the forecasted low in the 30's Sunday night and a week ago, it's been a hit and miss deal. I'm still catching good numbers with a few in the 5# to 8# range. I was there yesterday. Concentrate on the steep drops near spawning flats and creek channels- the most productive depth range has been 4'-6'. This is my biggest yesterday:

Paul, out of the 49 bass I caught yesterday, only one had even a hint of red teeth. The water temp was 64 degrees on the lake bottom when it was caught.

My use of a fluorocarbon leader is different than most. I use it for weight to get the superline to sink. I always use 20# fluoro and about 3'-5' in length depending on how much I feel like reaching to pull the line off the spool. I don't like the higher pound test fluoros because of the knot diameter. Most of the time I am using the 8# mono equivelent diameter superlines. There is no reason to use a lighter test leader unless when tying a Palomar for dropshotting-doubling 20# is tough with the small hook eyes.

If you want accuracy with your sonar unit, do not use any flexible adhesive to mount the transducer (3M 5200 included). You want a slow cure epoxy (24 hour). The faster curing epoxy types get lots of bubbles in them when mixed and those bubbles will absorb the sonar pulses and keep your hull from vibrating at the same frequency as the transducer.

The fastest electric only set up I have seen is a 16' Carolina Skiff with two electric outboards (48V Reservoir Runner) and 36V bow mounted trolling motor. The second fastest was the same rig with just one of the electric outboards. I was talking to the guy with the dual electic outboard set up today and he told me the top speed is 24mph. The key to speed is to eliminate as much hull draft as possible with the weight you will be carrying. Basically a wider hull bottom is better regardless of hull design.

Have you ever heard of wire ties (zip ties)? http://www.actfs.com/ Use them to attach the transducer cable to the trolling motor shaft with enough slack in the cable around the mounting bracket so you can tilt the motor. Lowes, Radio Shack, electrical suppliers, Walmart, K-Mart, auto supply stores are a few places that stock them.

I do up, down, and to each side depending on the fish's reaction.

Like all hooks of that style, the hook point is in line with the hook eye. If you want to successfully use that hook, open the bend some to expose the point more.

Have you checked the FREE enhanced maps from the Lowrance web site to see if your waters are included? Bass Pro Shops has them listed in their catalog. You can search for it on E-Bay. You can do a Google search to find the best price. Lots of options if you take the time to look.

I agree with Bass-Brat and TopDog. If you want to restrict yourself to a 12V, then save a while longer and get the 55#.

If you want a sturdy, protective mount, get the one made by Transducer Shield and Saver. It is made of aluminum and can mount a whole transducer or one that has the mounting arm broken off like what will happen with the factory adaptor. Bass Pro Shops has them in their catalog.

Which one?