Wayne P.

frank, yellow and orange are just as natural a color as black. Numerous aquatic residents have those colors. Blue gills and yellow perch have yellow, and some crawfish have orange accents on them. One of the popular colors for jigs and plastic crawfish is brown/orange.

I only do well with wacky rigged Trick worms, finesse worms, and Senko's when the water temp is above 43 degrees

I agree with South FLA about both lines. I'm anticipating the multi-colored version of the Samauri on the smaller spools. Power Pro and Suffix are too rough textured for my taste. Edited: on the Daiwa site, the multi-colored version of the Samauri is called Saltiga and it has two versions-Boat and Surf

I keep a weighted Tx rig worm, a weighted wacky rigged finesse or Trick worm, and weightless wacky rigged finesse or Trick worm ready all the time and try all in the same areas. I have found that the weightless wacky rig will out-produce the other two consistantly even as deep as 20'. The longer the lure is suspended in the water column, the better the chance is of a bass taking it. Most fisherpersons don't have the patience to fish that slow, I do because I know how well it works.

Rangerjoe, I do somewhat the same when spooling on braids. But all that compactness is lost while fishing. I don't put the line under a lot of tension during a retrieve when plastic worm fishing.

I tried the 30# Invisabraid and found that it digs into itself on the reel spool under tension more than any other braid I have tried. My thought of why, is because the finish is so slick. I tried it on baitcasting and spinning grear with the same result. I even tried it on the old Spidercast baitcaster which is designed to cross wind to prevent digging in, but it still did it. I purchased it for it's above water visibility. Just another line that failed the functional test.

With that criteria, I use a weedless wacky rigged finesse or Trick worm.

I use the now out of production Stren Super Briad in the gold color (close to yellow). It holds it's color for years of heavy use. I have some of the original issue on a reel that I use a lot and its still has its color (somwhat dirty now) but still gold. No, I don't change the color, and haven't felt that I needed to. The fish don't care what color line you use. Black line is not affected by the light filtering affect of water depth and is the most visible color at all depths until there is no light penetration (dark). If you are concerned with fish seeing your line, you are practicing just the opposite.

If the motor mount has enough "bite" to go over the rail (gunnel) just clamp it directly to the boat hull and use a piece of wood (about 1" thick) between the hull and clamps.

No, it doesn't. Stren Microfuse is the only braid I have seen advertized that is supposed to glow when exposed to black light.

P-Line CXX and the word "thin" don't belong in the same sentence.

nojerseydevil, I don't have any "secret" installation method for your set up. I would advise that for a console unit, that you trade in the supplied skimmer transducer for a trolling motor/ shoot thru style and install it in the bilge. Thanks for asking

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I prefer to use braid with topwater lures, since the briad floats, the lure can perform to it's max. Once monos loose their surface tension, they will sink. dodgeguy, you should try the Diawa Samurai braid. It is the 8 strand weave like the new Fireline Braid but is not stiff like the Fireline Braid is. Very smooth and quiet going thru the rod guides.

Vekol, "Perhaps line manufacturers are consistently over-rating the strength of their lines...wouldn't be the first time an industry tried to scam their customers." Quite the opposite is true, most lines break well above their pound test rating so they are grossly under-rated. Mostly the IGFA certified lines break close to their advertized strength.

Reel capacities are based on mono diameter, not the strength. That is way it shows X number of yards of X pound test mono. The larger the diameter/pound test, the lesser amount of line it will hold. You can use the mono diameter equivalent of braid to see how much braid it will hold.

I use 30#-40# braid with 2000 and 2500 size spinning reels. I go by the line diameter, not the strength. Most 30# braids have an 8# mono equivalent diameter.

CFFF 1.5 PM send

Most of the 2-piece rods I see displayed have a light enough action that make them suitable for cranking.

CFFF 1.5, do you have a G3 HP200 also?

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thetr200ne, I got the 3-bank 10A per bank size due to the battery mfg recommendation and I use group 27 batteries with around 110 Amp/Hour rating. I have no opinion on the charge rate as I trust the recommendation of a company that makes batteries. I have five group 27 deep cycle batteries in my boat, three for the 36V trolling motor and the other two for two 12V trolling motors. There may be around 6 to 8 square inches of open floor space under my rear deck left over on a Tracker PT170TX. Way2slow, my choice was based primarily on the foot print (the space it takes up on the mounting surface) and secondarily on the per bank output that was closest to the battery mfg recommendation. I didn't feel it was necessary to check every battery mfg to see what their recommendations were. The Dual Pro has three separate and independent chargers in one cabinet. If one fails, it can be repaired independently. All of the technical stuff was inconsequential to the space I had. I also like the pretty red and green lights. Pages 474 and 475 of the Bass Pro Shops 2009 Master Catalog has the dimensions of 4 brands of chargers. The only other mfg of chargers I considered was Quest and that was too big also. My previous on-board charger was two bank called a Mighty Mite and it served well for 15+ years and may be still working fine on a boat I used to have. Having a charger that will (a Pro Mariner quote) "charge your batteries 2 to 3 times faster than leading traditional chargers" is not necessarily a good thing for deep cycle batteries. Maybe that is why the others are "leading".

Another piece of advice, go with a company that has claim handlers that actually know how to handle boat claims. Auto/Home companies don't necessarily have the expertise. I worked for one of the larger insurance companies for over 43 years. Sam's advice is right on, lawyers are expensive.

Way2slow, when charger shopping, I considered the Pro Mariner like you got, but the physical size was too large. There was another spec that the charger has that eliminated it even more. The possibility of a charge rate of 30A for one battery if the other two are fully charged. I did some research about proper battery charging that changed my thought of the proper size charger- From the Exide web site: All batteries should be recharged as soon as possible following a discharge with a constant voltage charger. However, to recharge in the shortest period of time, raise the charging voltage to 14.40 volts for a 12 volt battery (2.40 volts per cell for series strings of batteries). The charger should incorporate a current limit feature. The maximum recommended charging current for the battery is shown below: Model Current (Amps) 12V U1 4.5 A 12V Group 22NF 6.0 A 12V Group 24 8.0 A 12V Group 27 10.5 A 12V Group 31 13.5 A

I just installed a 3 bank Dual Pro in my boat and based the brand decision on two factors. #1-It has the smallest foot print of any comparable brand. #2-It is in just about every bass boat that I have been in.