Wayne P.

bocabasser, for bass fishing applications, 50 yards of line is more than enough. Getting three reels done with a 150 yard spool is more economical and less wasteful. Doing it your way, there is a middle section of 50+ yards that never gets used other than to take up reel spool space. As you suggest, swapping ends as the line wears decreases cost and waste also. I also do the "50 yard rule" for fluorocarbon and regular monos.

Do you suppose "the incredible Dance's Craw" will be re-introduced?

You don't have to wait for the trim to leak down, just turn the control valve screw and it will let the motor down ( do it slowly though )

Next step, disconnect all the wires from the ( + ) side of the starting battery. Lightly touch the outboard cable to the ( + ) battery connection and see if a spark occurs. Do the same with all the other conductors that were connected to the battery while looking for a small spark. Which ever creates a spark is the problem connection. The contacts in the key switch could be a source of the drain as well as the trim switch/s. My trim switches will operate the trim with the key off and removed.

The reason I asked about the GPS is that the newer Lowrance units need separate power for the GPS antenna and disconnecting the unit head leaves the power still connected to the antenna. If your Eagle unit is a comparable setup, that is your problem if it is not connected to your console power cutoff switch but directly to the battery. Also some trolling motors use a small amount of electrical power even when not being operated. Unplug your trolling motor-that should be done anyway when the batteries are being charged-safety precaution.

Do you have a Lowrance unit with GPS?

Thanks shortbasser, I just did a web search for "trolling motor circuit breaker" and the MotorTech site was one on the list.

A CIRCUIT BREAKER or fuse is recommended for the positive side of the trolling motor circuit. The automatic reset circuit breaker is the most trouble free. http://www.motortechva.com/Images/2378215.jpg

Weedless wacky is not complicated:

It's more efficient on the front. It's the best position for precise boat control. If you want to spend more time fishing instead of trying to control your boat, put it on the front.

I use the uni-knot of all fluorocarbon connections. Zero failures also.

I catch so many wacky rigging that I rarely use a Tx rig any more. I fish it in the thickest cover where one would use a Tx rig. and so far in depths down to 30'-haven't tried deeper yet.

I only fished the area where Briery Creek and Little Briery Creek enter the lake.

I think the term "floating worm" that most use for Trick size woms came from the original floating worm by Danny Joe Humphrey that would float with a size 3/0 hook. Nowhere on packaging or advertizements is the term "floating worm" used to describe a Zoom Trick Worm. It has become a generic term for that style and length of plastic worm. It's like today's Chatterbait, copies of of the original are called Chatterbait even though they are not.

The next big wave of spawners will be the NEW moon if the water conditions are favorable.

I fished Briery Thursday and Friday. I did't catch any of the real big ones. Several double digit bass were on beds, but I couldn't get them to take a lure. Some fishermen did catch a few in the 7-8# range on Friday.

All the way counter clockwise is OFF. A slight clockwise turn and it comes on (makes a slight click sound) and further clockwise turning will adjust the sensitivity. If it will not come on, check for a blown fuse or make sure the panel power switch is ON.

MattStrykul, I just checked all my Gammy Superline hooks under magnification and none are welded. The wire is a heavier guage than the non-superline hooks

Stringjam, no, super glue is too thin to fill the gap and it's too brittle when set up to offer any resistance to the line slipping thru. Even using super glue on the knot to keep it from working it's way around to the gap won't last but a couple of casts since working the lure and weight will break it loose. Without snelling, filling the gap with another knot before the final tying-on works the best. tCR, the gap cannot be closed with pliers since there is really no gap, it's the small contact area of the wire end to the shaft that is the problem. The wire has a blunt end and that is resting against a curved surface which is the round wire the hook is made of.

Snell the line on the hook with a uni-knot especially when using a heavy tungsten weight. That way the sinker can't come in contact with the knot and the knot is not in the hook eye so it can't slip out. Put the line through the hook eye from the point side when starting the knot.

For early year fishing, I find the Northeast sections of the lake warm up the most and fastest. Most warming weather comes from the Southwest and the sun in the afternoons is more intense in the Northeast shorelines. It is true that the Northwest shorelines are more protected from the cooling affects of a cold front but when the water is cooling down, the fishing is lousy anyway.

For those that like the swimming frogs, use the proper length hook and put the hook bend between the legs and then skin hook the point into the back. That way the bend of the hook is not blocked with the plastic when the hook is set as the frog swings out of the way=less lost fish. For the Zoom Horny Toad, the Horny Toad hook or the Gammy Oversize hook works well. I prefer the Horny Toad over the others as it is heavier due to the added salt in the plastic and can be cast farther.

Thanks Cory, I was advised of that a few weeks ago on this site.

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I use them this way