Wayne P.

The little gators like plastic worms

fishing man, when I'm in my bassboat, I use a camera tripod on the back deck with bungee cords holding it down to the storage hatch latches. In my jon boat, I made a camera mount with some 3/4" sturdy PVC pipe and a camera mount that I purchased without the tripod. I just screwed it to the transom.

I got the blue gill one for pitching to bedding fish. I haven't seen any fish on beds yet to see how good it works. In the water, it will sit upright on the hooks, that is what prompted me to purchase it.

Noisy frogs: don't put stuff inside the hollow frogs/rats as that will prevent the body's compression when a bass takes it. Use the external rattles to make extra sound.

For nylon mono, the Stren Clear/Blue fluorescent line is the original line watchers choice.

Yes you can and it works quite well. Several years ago I was fishing with a C-Rig and kept feeling the strike like a Tx rig hit but was missing the hookset. After close examination of the lead sinker, I noticed scratch marks on it an figured the bass were taking the sinker instead of the lizzard I was using. I had some 1/2 oz. Strike King Denny Brauer jigs with the horizonal eye and replaced the sinker with the jig. I started catching the bass on one or the other lures after that.

I use a Canon ZR850 Mini DV video camera. It uses small tapes and also captures stills on SD cards. I can playback a tape, pause on a frame and take a still of that frame. It has a remote control for videos and stills. I transfer the tapes to DVD and I convert some of the DVD's to digital videos with Studio Manager software which is a free program. I got that camera because of it's 35X optical zoom since I do a lot of videos when deer hunting. I carry it in a waterproof case made by Pelican.

Snag Proof Bobby's Perfect Frog has a larger bend hook and the points are more upright than most other brands and styles=better hook-ups.

I got mine from this supplier: http://www.threeriversmarine.net/catalog/item/2521337/5648759.htm

I have that software. HD versions of some lakes are available for an additional cost. One HD map of your choice is free.

Correct T-Rig, a largemouth bass is a member of the sunfish family.

RW, I haven't tried that and probably won't. Too much going on to be a practial presentation. I don't use the Poison either, the Chatterbait knockoffs with the split ring connection for the blade gets hung up too much in timber.

Then there is this bass found in East Africa:

The centrifugal brakes in a reel work just like the centrifugal clutch in a chain saw, go cart, or ATV. The movable parts are forced against the outer drum to create resistance. Lubricating the friction surfaces lessens the resistance and decreases the effectiveness of the primary function of the parts.

The time not to use a craw/jig is when you make a cast and the sound of it hitting the surface is "thunk" and not "splash" as it lands on frozen water.

PlasticMan, I bought one of those Chatterbaits and the other one with the small crankbait on it. The smaller one works better. It seems that the blade size on the Trap model is too large for it to run right. That spinner/lipless bait is old school and was marketed a long time ago. I used to have some, but I don't remember the mfg.

VABasser, I'll send a PM with more detail

Your gear ratio has no effect during a cast as the drive train is disengaged. It's your casting technique that affects the lure direction. Using the same rod/reel/line combo for both takes a different reel setting and casting motion. The heavier spinnerbait loads up the rod more on the backcast and has more momentum on the forward cast. When you cast a much lighter weight, you need to reduce the spool tension and make a faster backcast to load the rod along with a more forceable forward cast with an earlier release of the spool. The ideal situation is a rod/reel combo set up for the weight of the spinnerbait (medium heavy) and another lighter action (medium to light) rod/reel combo for light cranks. Practice, Practice, Practice

bowtech182, I can assure you that if you use a soft plastic Zoom worm with lots of flakes in them you will not be hindered in any way. I've caught aound 4,000 bass total in the past two years and many thousands over previous years rigging it that way. I don't use solid colors when rigging in that manner. The white worm is for contrast when taking the picture and all the solid colors are too hard for consistant hooksets when rigged as such. I will use the solid colors with the same hook for exposed point rigging. I use the finesse worm the most and this is it rigged both ways with a size smaller hook.

I'm not familiar with that model, but judging by the tandem trailer and guessing by the model number, it is almost 20' in length, it is under powered.

Yep, got one. When OMC went belly-up and the boat companies were obtained (forgot who) the Javelin was called the Stratos/Javelin and was the entry level boat (package) line of Stratos. The hulls after 1991-92 were redesigned and turned out to be the fastest and best riding of the period. The same design hull was used in the 379 series starting in 1993 and was known in some circles as the "pocket rocket". The 389 series hull held the speed record in one catagory (don't remember which) for awhile. Prior to the OMC death, Javelin and Hydrosport were made in the same factory in Murfreesboro, Tenn.

No matter which size battery you go with, don't start off the day running it on high to get somewhere far away for the launch site. On high, the motor pulls the max amps and using up a lot of capacity in the beginning might cause you some paddling exercise. I mention that because a group of Jr. BASS fisherpersons I work with do it all the time and they end up with a dead battery in 5 hours or less because they always race to spots and change areas running on high setting too. The set ups they use are jon boats with size 24 batteries and Minnkota Endura 55#

rondef, I think I have already done so before. Send me an e-mail and I'll forward some to you. I don't think they are considered hybrids though. purdum43@aol.com

VABasser, the pictured rigging is how I do it with and without any weight when fishing in waters with stuff to get hung up on. I use the same hook rigged exposed point when I can get away with it. I use braid with a fluorocarbon leader. The leader (20#) is used for weight down to about 5' to make the braid sink. In depths down to 10', in wind, or current, I put a size 3d finishing nail in the head of the worm. For deeper depths, I use the Lunker City lead nails in 3/64 oz. I don't use the electrical shrink tubing unless I'm fishing in heavy weeds or timber as it keeps the hook eye from pulling out of the worm when working through those objects. If you are interested in more detail, just send me an e-mail to purdum43@aol.com

Don't use any of those weedless hooks. Just rig it this way and weight the worm.