BassGirl71

I use the Palomar for tying every lure on, whether it's braid, mono or copolymer. For mono leader I use a double-uni, which I think is the same thing people call an Alberto knot. I find it easier to just use one knot for almost everything.

You may also want to check out KastKing. I have a few of their reels, everything from a 5.3:1 to a 9.3:1, and they all perform really well. I would recommend the Royale Legend, which is a 6.3:1 reel with 11+1 bearings. That is a good all around reel and good for a bunch of different techniques. If you are only getting one bait caster, I would recommend something in that gear ratio range.

I have never used a mono of that strength. I rarely use anything over 14, to be honest. As far as a bait caster, though, I use a lot of KastKing products - they are not very expensive, but they are good reels. Maybe start with a Royale Legend, which is less than $40. As for the line, I use a lot of braid, and I think that makes learning easier because it doesn't have the line memory that mono does. Most of the braid I use is 50 lb or 65 lb. I agree with others the mono you have will give you a lot of problems. Of course, braid will not break if you get it hung somewhere while fishing, so some people use mono or a mono leader at least. That way they don't wind up losing a bunch of line that they have to cut off or something. Good luck with the learning process. Using a bait caster can be a little tough at first, but stick with it and you'll get used to it.

Go with more tackle.

I would have to agree the rod has a lot to do with it. For the most part, that is where I would concentrate. But, at the same time, if you're looking for a beast of a reel with a deep spool that helps that "cast a mile" goal, the KastKing Spartacus Maximus comes in under $100.... leaves you some cash for a better rod! Just a thought.

I agree with what others have said. Definitely join a club! They are great places to learn and, honestly, as a nonboater, you don't always have a lot of room for tackle and multiple rods anyway. Just be prepared to retie often when you want to change baits. Keep your eyes and ears open and learn everything you can. The best part, I found, about being a nonboater was the opportunity to learn from so many different people who all had different styles. It's the best way to start out, I think.

I've been using RockyBrook Sinkers for a few years now. I use the drop shot weights and the swivel weights for my jika rigs and some Texas rigs where I don't want the weight pegged. I also use the bullet weights for my C-rigs. They have a completely different sound, obviously, and I catch a lot of fish with them.

Personally, I'd use the gift cards, etc. for tackle and get a KastKing Kodiak spinning reel for $80. But that's just me.

I just picked up a Spartacus this year, too. Great reel. I've used and abused it several times already and it seems to hold up really well. It casts smooth and the drag is strong.

I agree with using a high speed reel for cranking - it is really difficult to slow down that much (for me anyway). I have a 9.3:1 Speed Demon and I use it only for pitching and flipping. I prefer a 5.3:1 or something slower like that for crank baits. I know a lot of guys think they slow down enough to fish cranks with a high speed reel, but as soon as they catch a fish or two, I can see them start to speed up. I have a hard time thinking any crank bait will run true right out of the box with a gear ratio that high. JMO.

I used to use all lead, and there are times I do notice a difference with tungsten. But I now throw almost only limestone drop shot sinkers. They are really sensitive and no "toxic lead" issues when I lose them. Plus they are way less expensive than tungsten.

Definitely sounds like a repetitive motion injury, likely to soft tissue - as many have said here a tendonitis of some sort. And, it could be arthritis-related as well. I know the times I have had tendonitis it has been coupled with arthritis issues - and one makes the other worse. See a doc and ask them about some sort of PT or OT. Should help you out a good deal.

I use a Palomar knot for everything. You just have to make sure your knot is tied properly or it can come undone with braid. For tying one line to another an double uni knot is what I use. It's fairly easy to tie, and I haven't had issues with it coming apart or anything, so I keep using it. Whether or not that's the "best" knot, I don't know - but it works for me.

I agree a lot of it is personal preference. I think we overthink it sometimes. Afte rall, fish do have a brain the size of a pea, right? lol

I agree with the others that it sounds like your knot is the problem. Braid and rock do not always mix well, but it sounds like you are having different problems. Also, I never go lighter than 15-lb., but that's just personal preference. I would start by checking your knot to be sure that isn't where the issue is starting.

I am pretty big on braided line. There aren't many situations where I won't throw straight braid, obviously other than super clear water. I go for 50 or 65 lb KastKing Fortis on my bait casters and 15 pound Fortis on my spinning set ups. I also use their co-polymer, which comes in a bunch of colors. One I particularly like is the copper color for water that is a bit stained. If it's a highly pressured body of water, I might opt for a leader on my braid and that copper is a perfect color for that situation. Co-polymer has gotten a bad rap because years ago it was really not very good line. Now I think co-polymer is a great option. I use it over fluoro, and I know a lot of people will disagree with me, but I do.

I agree with what others have said. A slower presentation may be the key. I use KastKing super power braid and Fortis as well, and I don't see a difference in bites compared to using a leader, etc., unless I'm in super clear water. I use high vis yellow and also the marine blue - but I usually use a black Sharpie on the first 6 feet of line or so. And, really, I just do that to increase my own confidence that the fish won't see the line. I'm not sure it makes a difference.

I totally agree. Bass are definitely opportunistic feeders. Anything that floats by that looks like food, they are apt to take a swipe at it. I live in northern Wisconsin and bass don't really school here, for the most part, on a lot of our smaller lakes, like they do on some of the bigger impoundments when they are chasing bait fish. Here their main forage is crayfish. That is not to say they won't chomp down a yellow perch or whatever swims by, but crayfish here are the main food for many of the bass, which can be evidenced by the red mouths they have from cracking those little snacks open and munching them down. Also, as WRB said, during summer they will eat anything they can get down. Here that is usually baby ducks, frogs, and red-winged black birds. But they will also eat clumsy mice who find their way off of a dock and into the water. Anything that is struggling or looking afraid is fair game, and the easier target the better, for the most part.

I am the outdoor reporter for our local newspaper(s), and I have talked with our Department of Natural Resources people at great length about chemically treating invasive weeds in lakes. They are actually backing off on issuing permits for chemical treatments. There is a great deal of research going on in the state now to see what the actual affects are on the lowest parts of the food chain. It is already understood that native plants are affected, and more research is being done on the effects on both plants and zooplankton, small fish, etc. It is an interesting debate to be sure. Invasive species are causing a good deal of problems in quite a few lakes. But how to treat them is being scrutinized now by the DNR - they are recommending monitoring over treating chemically. If certain invasives such as Eurasian watermilfoil are not causing a big problem in the lake, the recommendation is to leave them alone. I know the chain you are talking about. It's part of my coverage area for the newspaper. Their waterfront association is looking at a few different things to deal with the problem patches of Eurasian watermilfoil (EWM) over chemically treating. Not only is it expensive to treat, but DNR funding is dwindling and more and more lake associations, districts, and town lakes committees are looking for their piece of the pie. In addition to that, the DNR is recommending a "wait and see" approach to invasive management, which may again change the aquatic plant management in lakes in the Northwoods. Some research is being done on 2-4D, which is the most common chemical used here to treat EWM. It seems to have some negative effects that, until now, have been largely ignored. But the research is still ongoing. It will be interesting to see their final report. I will be following it for the newspaper, to be sure.

It sounds to me like this "fun" fishing isn't very much fun for either of you. Maybe you should both find other people to fish with. I agree the guy in the back shouldn't throw toward the front - neither angler should throw over another angler's line. As someone else said, as the "guy in the back" for years, I would throw something the guy in the front wasn't - if he had on a search bait, I'd throw a jig or soft plastic and often times get more bites. I do have to say it's not a very fun day when the guy in the front hoovers every spot before you get a chance at it... but it is what it is. If he can't seem to work with you, maybe it's time to get him out of the back of your boat. Whether you're fishing with or against the other person in the boat, you kind of have to approach it as a team where you both know the rules and help each other out (or at least have some common decency). JMO

Sharky III! Sounds like a purchase in my future! Glad you had a good experience with customer service. They have always been helpful when I've needed something, too - good to know there is a company out there that still cares about it's customers.

The Sharky Baitfeeder isn't actually waterproof. It's still a great reel, but not waterproof. I can totally see it handling those flatheads. Let me know how it performs next time you are out.

I agree. I will tell people - main lake points or grass lines in 12-14 feet - something like that, but I don't give up specific spots, etc. Or I might divulge a color I found to work well, but I won't do another angler's work for them. To me, that's not what it's all about.

I would agree with this. If you can see the fish, it can see you, so it makes sense. They will still react to a live predator even when they will not hit your lure.

I agree the knot is key. I use the palomar exclusively. I think it can be difficult because if it's not tied correctly it will come apart or break with braid. But once you get used to it (which comes quickly once it is the only knot you use), it is a good knot for braid- JMO. And I also agree a lot of it is preference as far as brand. I like KastKing Fortis, but if you're looking for one that's even more inexpensive but performs well, their Super Braid is good, too.