Boomstick

If by this you mean cutting your line off and respooling, then there is some truth to this. I'm with you on this. I have braid on two reels for punching, flipping and frogging and they see the least use of all my reels. I do prefer how braid handles on spinning gear though.

I like a faster reel, around 29 IPT (usually around a 7.x:1 gear ratio most of the time). But I will manage on a slower or faster reel too if needed - I wouldn't sell my jerkbait reel if it was a different speed.

If I feel anything, I set the hook. Yes there are times when it's better to wait, but at the same time waiting might mean they already spit your lure so I'll take my chances.

You're actually going to get a lot of different opinions here, but if I was buying one spinning rod for throwing senkos I would be looking at a medium power. And you will definitely want a fast action, maybe even an extra fast but of course it's manufacturer dependent. If there is no cover, a med fast should be fine with a T-Rig. Hooks like the Owner J-Lights would be a good choice.

I usually use the 1/0 or sometimes 2/0 size when wacky rigging soft plastics myself. I use the #2 and occasionally #1 when nose hooking. So I would give it a shot. I don't normally T-Rig my dropshots, but when I do I use the larger sized hooks. But when the hook is going through the plastic, you want to give it a normal hookset. With a nose hook or wacky rig on a mosquito hook, the fish almost hook themselves so reel down and lift.

It's possible you have a little too much rod. The fish pretty much hook themselves on a. There are basically two kinds of medium power spinning rods, the finesse style which is pretty ideal for drop shots and the heavier style which are more in tune with the typical medium power casting rod. I typically use 12# braid on a ML/XF or finesse style M/F rod with Owner Mosquito hooks and rarely have this problem. Your strategy is pretty much spot on though. I usually anchor my kayak at a point facing away from the land and cast around the point. Once you catch a fish take note because there is usually a sweet spot.

I have a Steez SV and that reel is super light and casts beautifully. I don't have experience with the Steez A, but if you go with the Steez SV it is unlikely that you will be disappointed.

My higher end spinning reel is a Tatula LT in the 2000 size. Very happy with it, super light, great drag etc. would definitely recommend.

I usually bring out 2-3 rods when shore fishing, although I often bring more in my truck. On my kayak I may bring anywhere from 2 to as many as 7, but I'm setup to store 5 in the back so I usually keep it under 5 per outing. I have 11 (2 spinning) rods and 9 reels (2 spinning). One of the rods has largely became redundant but I haven't sold it yet. Three of my reels always get paired with the same rod, the rest get mixed up depending on conditions, so I can throw T-Rigs on 12# fluorocarbon (10# if I had it) in open water instead of 14-16# I would use if there are some weeds and so forth. Pretty content with my collection. At some point I would like to add a swimbait setup (although I have issues storing a 8ft rod). I have a Tatula SV that I use for cranks that at some point I would sell and replace with a Tatula Elite or Shimano SLX MGL 70. Other than that, I have my bases covered pretty well.

Definitely check your rod guide. Did the insert fall out? Do your guides even have inserts?

A little abrasion marks as you describe on thin line and your line is done. 10# Yo Zuri Hybrid isn't super thin and has enough line where it could have signs of abrasion and survive if it's only on the surface, but it will damage the line even so. Often the line may break above the abrasion, not leaving any signs behind. Generally this can be caused by dragging along rocks, wood and even getting snagged in certain weeds can do a number on your line too. Do you have freshwater clams or mussels? Those can really tear up your line.

I second this. My top water/jerkbait/spook rod is the Mojo Bass top water rod which doesn’t have a lot of bend in the tip but has a lot of bend throughout the rod and is perfect for there’s lures.

I like Sunline SX1 #12 braid a lot. Braid handles better and casts further on spinning gear and The SX1 is pretty abrasion resistant for a thin braid. The Tatula XT isn’t a bad rod, I’m sure you will like the new setup.

I do the same thing. Sometimes I find a rod that is a happy medium that works equally well for most situations, like my T-Rig rod (M-MH) and my jig rod (a MH-H) but the rest of the time I go with the lightest rod and line I can get away with.

I would send that back. A little bit off is normal, but that looks like there is pressure being applied to it.

Going from 10 to 12 is basically dragging the bait, not hopping it. You don't need nearly that much movement, even on a 5 ft rod to just hop it in location. I mean, I do this all the time but that's usually more of a method to find fish more than to get fish that I know are in the area to take the bait.

The box on my Tatula 100 lists slightly less line and also thinner diameters for the same line rating than my Tatula CTs. But the CTs are prior gen and I'm not entirely sure if they re-did the 100. It's definitely a smaller reel than the prior gen CTs overall.

If you are familiar with the Tatula CT and want a similar reel made smaller and to hold less line, or thinner line than you will like the Tatula 100. As @Big Hands mentioned, the SLX MGL 70 will cast noticeably further on the same rod with the same weight even with the brakes maxed and the brakes way down or even off on the Tatula. It's just how the different braking systems work. The Tatula will give you better control if you are making targeted casts, but a lot of the times what I am doing with 10-12# line that you would run on a Tatula 100 is throwing a moving bait where the extra distance is welcomed rather than skipping, pitching or making short targeted casts which is where Daiwa wins.

I got my kid the following. I've used each rod a little and gotta say I'm pretty impressed. 7'3" H/XF "Full Contact Finesse" which is a really great rod for jigs, T-Rigs and C-Rigs. It's more of a MH+ than a heavy really, but has the perfect backbone for a great jig rod. This might be worth considering since it's a somewhat unique rod that doesn't exist in every line and you may not have already. 7'3" MH/F "The Marshall" - think of this as your do everything with single hook rod. It still is a little on the heavy side, but not as much as the typical St Croix MH/F. 6'10" ML/XF. Pretty new, so far he's got a few on it, only lost one when it wrapped his line around his brother's anchor line. I haven't actually fished this, but I can say it balances perfectly with a Tatula LT reel. I might also be inclined to look at the 7'3" M/XF spinning (especially if you fish from a bass boat - kayakers seem to regularly complain about this rod) and the 6'8" M/XF simply because that rod in the other St Croix lines is the perfect jerkbait and topwater rod.

Think of it this way, you cast 30 yards and hook a big fish. You have 25 yards of line with no stretch, and 5 yards of line with stretch. Basically, that leader is giving you a little bit of forgiveness but you basically have 1/6 the stretch of if you were running straight mono or fluorocarbon.

I don't think the problem is the line but the way you are transporting your rod. The same would happen with mono or fluoro, it's just a little easier to pick out when it happens. If it was me, I would put my focus into finding a better way to transport the rod because I like how braid handles on spinning gear - might be as simple as making sure the lure is secured tightly and getting a rod sock.

Given the frequencies, I would be impressed if bass can hear them to be honest.

I have rather mildly in the past, usually with a ringing in my ears. The ear doctors ran every test on me and were clueless, although it might be allergy related. Been pretty good for a few years now.

This article has some images of this clear masterpiece (definitely low budget flick given the costume) https://people.com/movies/winnie-the-pooh-blood-and-honey-everything-to-know/

No matter what I use for gas, my truck basically gets 15.1 mpg with normal around town driving, and 17 if I do enough trips. When I had older cars, non ethanol was always the best gas to use, but with newer vehicles ethanol does better. We saw our gas prices drop 45 cents about a week ago, but they've been stagnant since.