MN Fisher

You mean like this?

Realize that most modern electronics use Surface Mount technology...not the Through-Hole of the olden days. Allows them to fit more components per square-inch on the board. Unless you're proficient, and have a FINE tip soldering iron...I'd send it in to be repaired.

Same here - two items backordered from my BF sale order. One was back in stock within a week...the other kept getting pushed off more and more. Finally after 4&1/2 months of waiting, ordered the second item from someplace else that DID have it in stock, cancelled the order on that item from TW and got my first BO item within 3 days. Their policy of not shipping ANYTHING backordered until ALL backordered items are in stock really bites.

1 - Get a net 2 - Trying to lift a big fish out of the water by the rod is a fast way to break a rod 3 - As JB said, the drag is to save the line, keep the fish on longer and tire it out eventuallly 4 - If you can get it close, pull it ashore but don't bend the rod more than you have to. 5 - If you have to lift the fish - get a good pair of gloves and grab the line (see #2)

Favorably - I was a Guinness drinker until I had a Murphy's...less aftertaste with the Murphy's.

If it's not this It's this

X2 - I'm out of a canoe and I choose my rods based on what I want to do with them, not what kind of craft I'm fishing out of.

I'm not spending bucco bucks on rods, so I'm not that concerned with using the supplied keepers. I'd like Diawa to use the one that my Laguna has more often. It's like the EZ-Keeper in that it flips down when not in use and sits out further from the rod when in use...now that one I like. Like behind the reel seat? That's where my Dobyns Fury 702SF, Diawa Arid-X 661MFS and Okuma Stratus VI S-702MH spinning rods have them. Wait...what?! Put Fuji EZ-Keepers on those three.

Good thing I already have one in my arsenal.

MH/F - heavier power allows me to cast the larger chatters with trailers, the fast action allows me to drive the heavy, single hook home easier. My 7' Aird-X MH/F is rated 1/4oz to 1oz, so I can use almost the entire range of weights available with the one rod.

Nope - and that's why line isn't coming out. Under the cover is a cup with grooves on the back end. The cup has three positions. All the way back - Retrieve. The grooves engage the line and pull it onto the spool as you turn the handle. All the way forward - Cast-prep. Pushing the button puts it in this position. Now the line is trapped between the smooth, forward edge of the cup and the cover Midway - Free-line. Releasing the button puts the cup here. Now the line can come off the spool freely. Turning the handle when the cup is in Free-line position re-engages it back to Retrieve position Casting with a spincast is thus. Push the button and hold it. Swing the rod from 10o'clock behind you to 2o'clock in front of you. When you hit the 2o'clock position...release the button.

Are you holding the button down when casting?

Do near catches count? Caught two pike today but didn't get this one in the boat - second one hooked. Third one, second boated, went 2.23#...I think this one was bigger. He stole my Rattlin' Rap 08 - Bluegill

Sounds like part of the drag system under/atop the spool is reversed. If you don't have a copy of the schematics for the reel, there are several places that have old schematics. A Google search for "(brand model) schematic" may pull something up Example: "Pflueger President 25 schematic" gives me four different places that have copies of the schematic for the reel on my ML rig.

If the drag is working properly...why does it need to click?

Ya, at go with the CA-80 at minimum...that one at least has an aluminum frame even if the brakes are still not Magforce-Z

One of two pike I caught this morning - this is the little one, the vid for the larger one 'blipped' so couldn't get a screenshot. This one was a 1.83# hammer-handle.

Second outing of the year - 2 pike...here's the smaller of the pair No bass what-so-ever today.

1) YZH isn't coated with FC, the FC and nylon are 'intermixed' throughout the diameter of the line...that's what makes it unique among copoly lines. 2) 12# YZH is what I use on two of my BCs, one for top/shallow water lures (Spooks, Poppers, WP-90s, Wakebaits). It'll be fine.

I use my 7' Aird-X H/F teamed with a Fuego CT-XS as my frog rod. While I haven't caught any with frogs yet, the rig does well by me...good casting distance even with 3/8oz frogs. That rig is also my pitch/flip/punch rig - so multipurpose. Using Amazon - you can find the reel for around $80 - so $135 or so for the whole rig.

Female bass add 10%+ to their weight when loaded with eggs. So a 4.35# female would be 4.78# or more when laden with eggs. "Usually at spawning the weight of eggs in females will be 10 per cent or more of her body weight." https://appliedecology.cals.ncsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/SRAC-0200.pdf

Na - that's about a year old...if it was a recent spawn in your area, you wouldn't be able to tell the species yet. Ohio average age/length: 1, 6.6; 2, 10.2; 3, 13.4; 4, 14.1; 5, 15.5; 6, 16.3; 7, 16.7; 8, 17.6; 9, 17.5; 10, 19.2. https://www.limaohio.com/sports/251826/anglers-eye-catching-trophy-fish

Spinners go on either my 7' Aird-X MH/F or the 7' Laguna MH/F.

If the trailer has brakes, it's for a good reason and I wouldn't want to tow that rig without working brakes on the trailer despite my 'heavy hauling' Silverado.

Just like brakes on a car/truck. If air-bubbles get into the brake line, the hydraulics of the brake system get 'mushy' and don't work right. Bleeding the lines remove the air-bubbles. Might want to find out why there's air-bubbles in the lines - could be a leak or punctured hose. If the lines check out, then just bleed the lines like you'd bleed car brake lines.