MN Fisher
Super User
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Everything posted by MN Fisher
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Smaller profile for the same weight - lead is 11.34gm/cc, tungsten is 19.22gm/cc...brass and steel are both under 10gm/cc so have larger profiles for the weight. Also, quite a few states are now banning lead weights.
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Check the manufacturers website for the normal weight - figure some way of putting the boat on a scale. Subtract base weight from current weight and divide by 8. That'll give you how many gallons of water the foam has absorbed. Given the size of the holes - I'd give it a couple days of warm weather per gallon or part there-of to dry out.
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Even with Duct Tape, water could leak around the edges of that. If the foam took on water, might want to let it dry out a while before repairing the holes. "Pint's a pound the world around" - every gallon of water the foam soaked up adds 8 pounds to the weight and unless you let it all dry out - it'll start rotting the foam if it hasn't started already.
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Wife is partially disabled and I'm retired and act as her PCA. I get one day a week when we get someone in to watch her for four hours so I can go out - all we can afford. This is the same as last year - so no change.
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The plastic boats now-days are made of Polyethylene (PE). There are specific welders that use PE rods like a glue gun. Using one of those, you can rebuild the damaged places. You'll need a welder, raw plastic and (for most welders) a pressurized air source.
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I've got two rigs set up with braid - 50# Power Pro on one, 40# Suffix 832 on the other. Both have 12# Yo-Zuri Hybrid leaders around 6' long tied on with double-uni knots. I have no issues casting and even the Doub-Uni goes through the guides just fine.
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X2 - X3 - whatever... If it does swallow the hook?
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I've gotten two of my rods supplied by Amazon - two others ordered through Amazon were drop-shipped from the actual merchant. Both rods came is square, cardboard boxes, but were well padded with bubble-wrap and crumpled brown paper. Both came to my door intact with no issues.
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Yes, it can be done with spinning gear...the technique is not reel specific. Let Denny Brauer show you how.
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Canoe here and given the number of rigs I have (10) they're leashed when in the racks. I'm on a tight budget, so losing almost $1000 in rigs if I flip would be devastating to me. The only time a rig isn't leashed is when it's the one in hand...don't use floats either.
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I've been happy with my 90s actually. Bass and Pike seem to both love them.
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I tried a couple different FCs including Red Label and Invixz - wasn't impressed. After trying Yo-Zuri, I've completely gone away from FC and use 12# on my cranking rig, my spin/buzz/chatter rig and as leader on my two braid rigs. I'm also tossing 10# YZH on my spinning-crank rig and 4# on my UL rig. You wanna gift me some better FC than I've tried and I'll give it a shot, but for now, it's YZH all the way.
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I'll be tying on just before I leave at 9am tomorrow - 10 rigs in the canoe. Whopper Plopper - Shad Rap - T-Rig - Spinner - Rapala Floating - Rattlin' Rap - Donkey Rig - Drop Shot - Mepps Comet - Ned
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Spinnerbait - no matter what else I may have tied on my other rigs - one of my MH/F rigs has a spinner on it.
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Spindle grease is designed for high-speed applications - like industrial thread take-up spindles. When the machine is operating, it acts like grease, but after shut-down it flows like oil. Under the low-speed applications in fishing reels, I'd worry about it flowing off the gears and giving you no lubrication at all. I'd pass on this.
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I'd get one of those stern-saver blocks and mount the transducer to that. Block goes on with epoxy glue, and that way you're not drilling into the hull itself. Mounting location looks good.
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Well, as I said, I've had good luck with the Aird-X H/F - my wish-list has it being replaced by a Fury 735C.
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They were affordable when I was building my arsenal...I think they fish well above the price point and I haven't had any complaints about them...I also have an Aird-X spinning rod. Only been out once with it (and the ML/F Spinning one too) - but so far I'm liking them. If I do upgrade the Aird-X rods, it'd be to Furys. Another item that I feel work above it's price point. Smooth, easy to adjust. Only real difference between the Fuego CT and Tatula CT is that the Tat has the T-Wing...otherwise they're practically identical. I have two President Spinners myself - 20 on my UL (Ned and Panfish), 25 on the Fury ML/F (Finesse) I've been impressed with the President BC - last year it was on the Aird-X MH/F tossing spinners/chatters/buzzbaits and did quite well. Standard magnetic brakes instead of the Fuego's Magforce, but tuning them in wasn't a big issue and rarely had 'blowups'.
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I've got a mix on my rigs Fuego CT-XS on H/F Aird-X - 50# PP/12# YZH leader Supreme on MH/F Aird-X - 40# 832/12# YZH leader - main line use to be 30# PP Fuego CT-H on MH/M Fury - 12# YZH President XT on MH/F Laguna - 12# YZH President on M/F Aird-X - 10# Stren
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50# Power Pro with 12# Yo-Zuri Hybrid leader.
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This is exactly my frog/pitch/flip rig. Only jigs I use on it is 3/4oz or heavier...rest of my jigs I do on the MH. I like the shorter rod mainly because I'm out of a canoe. Faster reel to haul them out of the slop quicker.
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If the envelopes are over a certain thickness, they're considered 'packages' and charged as such. Best bet, is use the smallest Priority Mail box you can get away with...a 8"x5"x1-3/4" box is $7.00, a 11"x8"x6" box is $13 shipped anywhere in the US in 1-3 days.
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Normally 10' or less - in a pinch I'll go to 15' but that's the limit.
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Base, good quality, square-stern canoe can be had for under $500...carry in the back of a truck. My first year, it was un-powered and I carried it with a bed extender in the back of my pickup. Start with that and add things as you get the money. It's taken me 3 years to get mine up to where it is...retired on fixed income.
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Kayak or Canoe. I've heavily modified my canoe to be a fishing machine and not including the trailer, it's still under $1000 total including TM, sonar and battery...add the modified trailer in and it's around $1600.
