papajoe222

I attach a small crank to the center arm and run it where I'd be running a deep diving crank in the summer. I can sometimes pick up a finicky fish or to from a school that wouldn't take the DD.

If you can't visually locate where they're taking on water, fill your sink with water and submerse the lure (without hooks). Holding the lip and the rear of the bait, attempt to twist the body. If there's a leak, you'll see an air bubble escape it. I only have a few 6XDs and have never experienced this. Over the years, I have had maybe three Deep Little N's develop a leak, but that was after a full season of banging rip rap with them, not just one day. Hopefully you'll get an answer and or replacements from them. Let us know their response.

For me, that's pure luck. Hooking shoreline trees on every other cast IS a pattern and one I can repeat without much effort.

There was a popular saying back in the day. It wasn't coined in reference to fishing gear, but it still applies: "Buy the best you can afford, the cheapest will disappoint you and the more expensive is only beneficial to the person selling it,rarely to the person buying."

You could use it for packing material in that 8ft. tube you were thinking about sending me. I'll be more than happy to use it for cranking until next year. I'd even pay for the shipping....one way.

I watched a video on how to tie it today. The knot looks to be an awesome one for attaching a leader to braid. It does, however look to have a severe learning curve. He didn't look very comfortable tying it. Then again, he was trying to talk during the demonstration.

Can't wait to see the video, more so to see you guys sticking some pigs than seeing the rod fail. Glad to see you can look back on the experience positively, both from your CS experience and from your poor sense of humor.

If you're collecting items because you have some personal attachment to them and something like the Bill Dance Quantum items does, go for it. If you're collecting with the idea that it may increase in value, I have boxes of baseball cards I will sell you.

I had a similar experience with a three pound smallie. That was the only time I didn't enjoy watching a smallie jump. It seemed like forever before I was able to cut the hook off the crank and free myself from what I can only describe as three pounds of TNT on a short fuse.

Yea, it's way better than sugarloaf. There's some music trivia for you.

The palomar knot tied with fluoro has failed me more often than not. Then again, I'm always attempting to set the hook and boat the fish in one move, so that's asking a lot of any knot. (Longfellow would be proud)

What rock have you been hiding under? They just had their 15th Anual Anti-angler Convention in Vegas in early July! Nobody knows what's said by the speakers because no one can translate bass speak.

A bit off topic, but I'm wondering why you're limiting yourself to lines that sink. There are only a few applications where a sinking line makes a noticeable difference. Topwater (negative) and weightless soft plastics (positive) are two that come to mind. Also, why copolymer? Fluoro is great for applications where sensitivity is a concern, but braid is more so and there are abrasion resistant monos that equal, or better many copolymers. Personally, I don't get caught up in all the merchandising claims of copolymers. Something is always sacrificed when combining or coating one material with another. I go with whatever line is best for the application and that includes fluorocarbon (yuck) for deep cranking.

The play in the handle is likely due to the spring getting weak from age/use. That could also be the reason for the spool stop delay. If I recall, the 5500 didn't have Instant Anti Reverse, just a clutch on the main gear. The clutch lever could be worn, but I'd put my money on the spring. The clicking noise is the lever attempting to engage the gear.

With the exception of topwaters, hard baits (cranks-spinnerbaits) haven't been producing regularly this year for me. No excuses about the weather or whatever contributing to it, the numbers just aren't there. I'm talking close to 50% reduction over the last two seasons on cranks and I've all but abandoned spinnerbaits for swim jigs the last three or four weeks. Is anyone else noticing a swing away from hard baits being productive this summer?

I started a thread on this exact topic last year. You can do a search to see some of the replies. I prefer a floating jerkbait over a Fluke for fishing over submerged weeds. I can cover more water faster and because, I think, I'm working it faster it seems to me the fish attack it more than just inhaling it. I've also used them as the business end on a Booyah Bo Rig with some success. More for walleye and pike, but in the right place it produced some nice bass.

Better? What are you comparing? Components, cost to quality comparison, durability? If you're asking which will get you more bites, then it becomes relative to conditions or a personal choice decision. If I were to make a personal recommendation, it would be none of the above. I'll throw a tail spinner when most are using a ChatterBait style jig.

I'd say if you have a system that's working, don't mess with it. When it stops working is the time to look for something different. That may be a simple change of weights, a change in the soft plastic bait, or something completely different. When that time comes, I'd start out on top and work my way down to bottom presentations. Weedless topwaters, to spinnerbaits, to jigs. You could opt for a swim jig and adjust your retrieve to cover the water column also.

My outlook on fish coming unbuttoned is this; Fishing is a sport and as such is competition between you and the fish. Sometimes the fish win and sometimes I do. It's disappointing to loose, but it beats the heck out of no competition at all. If I can reduce the odds of them throwing the hook, of course, I will. If they can reduce the chances of being brought to the boat, I say go for it and may the better competitor win. I'm still confused as to how something with a brain the size of a pea can win the competition, but I have been accused of being brainless more than once.

This is a bit off topic, but may be beneficial to some. I never recommend purchasing a rod without first mounting the reel you intend to use on it . That beauty you fell in love with can turn into a beast and discovering that after you've driven to and from your favorite tackle dealer is a big bummer. (I wanted to use a different expression, but this IS a family site)

I wasn't attemting to persuade anyone not to use a blacklight, I was just pointing out that fishing without one will make you better at feeling your bait and what is happening with it. I do use one when there is a new moon

Jeez guys. The OP said he's had the reel a few years. I'd say he knows something is wrong. I'm not familiar with that particular reel, but it sounds like the internal adjustment arm isn't being moved when you dial up the magnets. A good indicator would be the adjuster would feel different. If you're comfortable opening the side plate, look to make sure the magnets move when you're adjusting them. If not, this is the culprit and that part just needs replacing. If they do, check to make sure the race is still glued in place and not spinning. Is should be one or the other. If you're not comfortable doing this yourself, you can send it to DVT of this site. Most reel repair shops will let you know the cause and cost to fix before doing any repairs if you ask.

ChugBugs and Magnum PopR for baits I can walk and pop but Hula Poppers and Lucky13s are good popper/chiggers.

It's honestly very hard for me to judge effectiveness when it comes to lures, b/c I never know what bites I would have got if I was using something else

I'd add a few topwaters, including a hollow body frog. There's nothing more fun than seeing and hearing a nice bass blow up on your topwater.