diehardbassfishing

Understanding how the DC cast control system works will help in understanding it's limitations. I have the earlier Calcutta Conquest DC round reels. They have at least twice the settings as the current reels. Your frustration comes from marketing that has brought a false sense of what this type of cast control sytem is capable of doing. Some of my biggest bird's nests have come from using my DC reels! And I still like 'em... Here's what makes them tick. They really don't operate much different from any other mechanical (magnetic or flying weights) system. Operator dials in a level of "control", and the reel behaves in a range of being "tight" or "lose" in it's cast control to achieve a certain cast, hopefully w/o backlash. The DC reels use programmed settings to achieve this. The reel ONLY knows spool RPM, and your dial setting. The dial setting calls up a pre-programmed casting "profile". This profile tells the brake system how much brake to apply when, and at what RPM. The DC advantage here over "conventional" braking systems, is the word WHEN. The spool can achieve very high start up speeds that can not be achieved by any "non-smart" system. Breaking with a DC reel is actively achieved through mid and final cast. Understand there is no feed-back loop in the reel that can say DANGER a backlash can happen here. None. That is my rub with the newest DC cast control settings. Too few settings. Like the reel is soooo smart. They are not, really. Do I use the full scale of my (10 or so) settings with my early Conquest DC reels, not really, not much. Shimano is counting on this reality to simplify the settings - and making it seem that the reel is smarter than it is, and "all you gotta do is set it this way" and all is good to go! Nope. Not going to happen. As for casting into a garage door w/o backlash. You may guess - nope. Not at full throttle anyway!! It truly - and simply - comes down to this. You need to practice and learn the reel. I enjoy my DC's - they allow me to cast huge distances very accurately. Much more so than my simple classic Abu's or my favorite Daiwa Mag Z reels. But you need to learn the reel. And YES, you can get crazy distance with no thumb... I hope you too can experiance this with the somewhat limited settings offererd with the newest DC reels. Start off with "tight" casting settings. Work slowly into the danger zone. I think you'll enjoy getting the feel of it! And of course the distance!! Karl

Spit and tighten slooooowly... I find it useful to sorta tighten carefully via tag and main line. Back 'n forth. Never forcing from one end. Even assisting the line to come together when using a knot that has multiple wraps around the main line. Karl

Geeez, is this SV design "flying too close to the Sun". I know the ol' Magforce Z spool is not fragile! Karl

I see it now - looking at the parts diagram. It's the base ramp that is broken (connected to the spool). The mating ramp connects to the inductor. The base ramp has pins that keep it from spinning free (a one piece part). I wonder if there is a mechanical issue that made the inductor jam - this would easily cause these pins to get sheared off. I'd like to think under any normal use, these pins would never break off. Karl The (gold) inductor likely spins free if the ramp base pins are broken. This would defeat the Mag brake. No Mag brake force.

No dogs in an SV spool. Karl

Would really like to see these pieces in focus. Try putting the black pieces on lined paper if hard to get them in focus. Maybe a ruler by the chunks to get an idea of size. (Funny thing is if they were in the area "under" the spool, there's really nothing that I can think of that could break off like this.) Karl

Yup. It's likely a reel seat thing. Have had it happen. Easy to test. Mount the reel. Hold reel (mostly from the top) and try to rock it back and forth. If you find play with the rod - it's the reel seat. The seat is likely not defective - and really can't be fixed. As mentioned above, build up the end of the reel seat that moves with some tape. Karl

Roll cast might not be such a great "early to try" exercise. It's very rod sensitive - if have a broomstick, OhOh. Just good even swing side-arm is best way to start out. Karl

Looks like this rod (new to you I assume) has a tip that will really "whip" on those aggressive casts. Most (all?) rods will do this at some point. If you choke down the reel for backlash control at this extreme, you'll have poor performance for the majority of your use. Guess you could keep re-adjusting, but that's not what need to be doing. The funny and important thing I've found, is that forceful casts don't really gain much (if any) extra distance anyway! Really can't beat the distance from a nice evenly forced long swing of the rod. Likely because with a good even cast the rod is not getting overloaded, and you're getting the "proper spring" out of it. Overload the spring of the rod, and things just don't go well. I see people talking about braid, I don't have experiance to talk about this. I do know I can see out of control backlashes using mono and fluoro when casting too strong. Especially if there is any extra whip at the end of a Superman cast! Karl (Just read again - I see those lure weights. What is the rod's lure weight range? If you're far out of range, you need to do more of a long slow lob cast.)

Can't help with that. Just a spinning camo find. Karl

That's a tuff call. Ebay has Ardent Edgewater spinning reel in camo. See one for $21.88 and another for $29.95, new. Finish will be MUCH better than any hydro dipped job. Karl

An XF tip might not be the best choice. Too stiff to load up the rod during cast with the lure weights you're mentioning. Karl

In Upstate NY where we saw a slow warm up, I find fish farther out, deeper. Even though now the waters have warmed up, not catching shallow close to shore; as one would normally expect. And just forget top-water. Fish as far out and deep as you can using soft-plastics on the bottom. Cast out, let lure sit on the bottom for a bit, slow slow slow retrieve. Basically by short pulls with the rod. Repeat every 5 sec or so. Pull out if nothing after 10 or so drags along the bottom. Better off casting out again - hoping to get the attention of the falling bait. Believe that's what happens - fish see the bait fall to the bottom. This has caught their attention. Now you have to tease them into a strike. This usually happens in the fist few jerks of the lure. I'm also fishing from shore, but not a large body of water. Not wide anyway... Karl

No no and no. This is like old bad medical advice. Spool tension is set to just keep the spool from side to side movement. Maybe 1/16 to 1/8 turn more to just for "good measure". I don't like my spool so loose that when the clutch is depressed you almost generate an over-run if not careful. Now used to it all really, and don't need it myself. But when starting out with the correct way to set the CC knob, that little extra 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn helped. Doesn't limit casting distance in any noticeable way. Did I remember to say "No"? Karl (Only 1 exception - an old school Abu that has fixed brake blocks.)

Purchased a pair of OG Crucials a few years ago - bought together as a buy one, second half off. Two diff ratings. Couldn't resist - looked forward to seeing the difference between them. One is 6'10", Medium Heavy - Fast, Line Wt: 10-20 lb, Lure Wt: 1/4-3/4 oz Second 6'8", Medium - Extra Fast, Line Wt: 8-17 lb, Lure Wt: 1/4-1/2 oz Found the 6'8" M-XF rod difficult to cast accurately. The stiff tip just didn't load up well. Thought the top rating of 1/2 oz interesting; being less than the rod with the softer tip. The 6'10" MH-F rod was wonderful for accurate casts. I suppose 6'8" M-XF would make a nice "over the side of the boat jigging rod", but don't do much of that at all. I've kinda labeled it as a broom-stick. The 6'10" MH-F is one of my go to rods. Much like my Avid 6'6" MH-F, loads up well for very accurate casting. Even with a roll cast. Karl

The best thing you can do when fishing any top-water is STOP! I don't believe I've ever caught a bass with a top-water lure in motion. I've seen them "submarine" up to it in motion. Then I pause, and let the fish take it. Most times it's a pretty good "blow-up" on a paused lure without any other visual clue. Of course, don't set hook immediately. Wait to feel the line get heavy, or simply wait a second or so. Karl

Don't do that. Side to side play movement could eventually allow rotation between the bearing shaft and inner bearing race. This interface is designed to be "tight". If you use magnification you'll see that the inner bearing race and spool shaft are NOT polished smooth. They are have a noticeable machined surface. If wear eventually "polishes" these surfaces, the bearing proper may not rotate, but will rotate at the shaft and inner race area. Creating noise, especially at the start of the cast. Essentially your bearing could act like a simple bushing. And, as mentioned above, you are not gaining anything. Once side to side spool play is adjusted out, there is zero gain in casting distance by adjusting so it is looser than this. In fact a 1/16 to 1/8 turn tighter than zero side play will have no noticeable decrease in casting distance. Use your magnetic or centrifugal brakes to control cast. Karl

When lure is reeled in, do a line/knot check. Grab the line about 18 inches above the lure, grab the lure in your other hand, and pull on it. Do it often - especially after clearing from a snag, and always after landing a fish. Along with this pull check, run that length of line between your fingers. Feeling for line nicks and abrasion. I find a lot of problems doing this. Just cut the line (18 inches back) and retie. A few times with the pull check, the lure came right off with what felt like minimum pressure. Maybe a pound or two - literally nothing. Karl

The best advice I can give is advice I've received - when working soft plastics. SLOW down. Then slow down some more. When lure is cast, let reach bottom, and let it rest there for at least a 15 count. After that, slow retrieve - 6 inches at a time slow. Drag with the rod, and take up the slack with the reel. Keep the slack out of the line so you can fell any "tap" on the lure. Now is the second phase - the hookset. Maybe you don't need help there... Karl (Oh, almost forgot to mention - this works.)

Keep in mind - our recommendations on proper spool tension will not cure this backlash issue. This would require dialing in way too much spool tension. It's much better to use the DC cast control to tame any backlash problem. Start casting at "4", and work down. Karl

Yup - kill the side to side play, and give it 1/8 turn (or so) to make it "reasonable". Karl

Tried 14 lb. on two baitcasters. Took it off almost as fast as I put it on. Way to stiff, and the memory coils made it impossible to fish lightly weighted soft plastics. And the claim of "X" percent less stretch claim is bogus - from good reviewer and experience. Baaah. Karl

A review I read said they preferred Mode 4. "With the Curado DC set in Mode 4, I was able to cast into a headwind with braided line and with my thumb completely off the spool, and the reel not only prevented any backlashes but also helped me cast farther than I would normally be able to cast with a traditional baitcaster in these conditions. Anglers of all skill levels can benefit from the Curado DC’s easy to manage and reliable I-DC4 system." Reel might be a bit "loose" for Mode 2 for the situation you were in. Discounting a head wind, and maybe not too light of a lure, Mode 3 might have been OK too. Try again, but start high and work down through the Modes. Karl

Maybe reassembled with the long screw next to the clutch bar. Look from the other side of the reel - all three screw holes go through the chassis. Look for interference with the clutch. Karl (From looking at my reel, the long screw goes in the front of the side plate. The two short screws go in the top of the side plate, and the rear (clutch end) of the side plate. Again, look for interference). When assembled correctly, the two screws at the ends of the side plate will look flush with the chassis when looking at the thread end. The top/center screw is set back a bit.

Radar 115 is also a product of the US.