diehardbassfishing

I'd suspect dry spool bearing(s) and/or no grease on ends of spool shaft. Karl

Hmmmm. Somewhere between live bait and artificial. A little closer to live. If not legal to fish in a professional tournament, I'll pass. Karl

A rod is most likely to break where it flexes the most. How much flex can anyone image occurs at the butt! I just don't want you to think you need to change your fishing habits. It's not you - it's them. The rod failed you. Karl

Hydrostatic. Much better emergency pull handle. Ultra comfortable - not neck focused support - shell for vest goes up the back. https://mustangsurvival.com/collections/inflatable-pfds/products/elite-28-inflatable-pfd-auto-hydrostatic-md5183 Karl

Flaw. Karl

Noticed how it broke right on the rod wrap. Look at the butt end. You can see where it broke right on the green thread wrap. Karl

Magnum Bug produces. Just yesterday tried out Cut-R-Worm. 6 inch. Action is unreal! Pond was 95% covered with thin ice - so not a real fishing trial. But looks incredible! The 7" version is quite a sizable worm. Have both. We'll see what the bite is like on 'em in 2021. Big fan of ribbon tail worms. This is a great variation. Karl

Two ranges stated in the description: 6-7 ft in the upper section specs area. 7-8 in the paragraph description. http://www.luckycraft.com/luckycrafthome/Products/shad/bevyshad75.htm (Fluorocarbon may bring it down some) Karl

That is correct. In fact, to double check I just shook my 78 and 100. 78 has no moving weight. 100 has moving weight. Karl

I've used shrink tubing to stop reel marring. I'm not buying metal nut rods any longer. Karl

"Winner Winner, Chicken Dinner!" Karl

Clean the surface same as mentioned with gluing. A little pull test once set up with the battery will tell you what to expect for security with the mount. Karl

Super glue not very super in some applications. It's brittle. If glue only option, epoxy probably much better. Clean the plastic hull area with a strong detergent (or better yet cigarette lighter fluid), and alcohol. Karl There are industrial strength adhesive back velcro straps that I have used - Home Depot stuff. It's quite good.

Yes, best thing I ever did! It's hard - especially at first. But as I tell folks about bass fishing, "if it was easy I wouldn't do it!". Karl

Oh, maybe go White. Making just the motor be the only stand out. I can see it... Karl

That's easy - large White boat, keep mechanicals Black! Karl

Not may favorite area of conversation to chime into. But. You're sorta asking two questions - the subject of the post, and the body of the message. Rods that aren't abused don't break. Abuse is High Sticking, for one. Having drag set very high and horsing a large fish, or snag - depending on rod position, can also qualify as a potential break situation. To answer the question in the subject title - I'd really like to say No. At least not significantly. The difference between a med and med heavy is how it performs while fishing. Not much (or hardly anything) to do with how much punishment it can take. If you're really on the way to bustin' a med rod, you're "just this close" to bustin' a med heavy. To answer the body of your post - frogging would best handled with a rod with a stronger backbone than a medium. You'll have better control over landing the fish. Karl Keep in mind most reels max drag is typically 10-15 lbs. Braid break strength numbers sound impressive, but the line is more a "no stretch" thing, than purely a Superman force thing.

Yup! When it comes to having to "think about it", I remember when I was skiing. You had to practice and gain experience to run down a black diamond slope. It was necessary to do this without thinking about everything that was involved. In fact, if you became spooked and lose confidence while traveling down the mountain, that run was over. The many skills involved in fishing are similar in their learned skills. Many senses become automatic. Think back to when those skills weren't! Karl

SDJ is one heck of a knot! Especially the Double SDJ knot. 3 tag ends! Karl

Tighten the wraps no matter how many you make, or how long the tag. Use fingers to pull from top down to get the wraps wound together. Pull down on the knot, pull the tag. Pull knot, pull tag. Repeat until it looks like it's not going any farther. Oh - spit first! Karl

Oh - just try this on a Senko - use a sharp blade to cut a cross section. Use a magnifying glass to look at the cut end. You'll actually see grains of salt. Some manufacturers have what I would call more of a salt solution mixed into the soft plastic. Typically not very harmful to durability. But when it's really granular salt in the mix, durability takes a big hit. Karl

Yup - it's simple. I like to use snaps so I can quickly change from soft plastics to a crank or topwater. Not that tying is all that difficult. Gotta pick what works for you. On occasion when set-up for Bubba Shot, my weight will get caught in a bush behind me when fishing from shore. Nice to just grab a new weight-n-clip and I'm back fishing in seconds! Karl

Ends up looking like that! Karl

I use a quality snap at the end of my line. Pre-rig some weights at desired length of line to a quality snap. Rig favorite soft plastic to line end clip along with the pre-made weight. All set! I also look close at the whole rig so the weight is clipped in such a way that with the weight dangling, the soft plastic is what you'd like to see as correct side up. Not a big deal really, but it's what I do. Karl