diehardbassfishing

And they can be Very Pretty! Karl

I'll bring out my Ambassadeur (ultra-cast generation spool) 4500 or 5500 and always very surprised how well they cast - even lighter soft plastic rigs. I do my own maintenance on my equipment - so all lubrication (spool bearing, plastic bushing, and gear) work is better than factory. I also change the break blocks (there are black, blue and white weights) for suitable breaking control. I believe the "load" created by the level-wind (as long as it's not too much from poor lube, or tight gear busing) actually aids in spool speed control. When set-up right there is very little compromise compared to a modern low profile reel. Karl

Wish I could say something for sure on this issue. I can offer one thing to try - a lubrication that I practice religiously - grease the ends of the spool shaft. Yes, it can create all kinds of noise if the ends go dry. When you mention the noise changing with spool tension, and reel position - it kinda lines up. I clean the black "pads" that the shaft ends ride against - and place a dab of grease right on the center of the pad. Hope this makes a difference for you! Karl

I paid $360 for a very nice rod. Called out everything - including beautiful diamond wrap. Karl

Oh My! Where is the 1st line guide located? or Is the line being held down by hand in front of the reel for some reason? Karl

Roman Made Mother Swimbait Length: 12 in Weight: 10.5 oz Type: Slow Sinking

Just the beer talking! Karl

Likely excess glue for the insert on the guide's metal frame. Common. Karl

Yea, just look close at the tip insert. Q-tip is good test to see (feel) if it's chipped. Looking with a magnifying glass works too. Karl

Notice our bite is just like all the years before; except completely different. Karl

There is a buyer review on Tackle Warehouse. Reads a bit funny - don't know what to think. Karl

One bit of info every owner should know. The spool bearing in the "side hatch" has an O-ring in place. Never saw this before in a reel. It makes it a bit of a game to remove the bearing for service. I reassembled without the ring. Karl

Could be anti-reverse bearing. Had happen to my Ryoga. If so, not very difficult to correct (clean and re-lube). Plenty of vids out there showing how. Look for red/brown "rust dust paste" in the bearing and on the bearing sleeve. Karl

First find out how many break blocks to make active. Likely 2 or 3. Makes a big difference since the dial control does not provide a wide range of practical adjustment. It's more like a "fine control". Of course that's coming from a Diawa Mag Force / SV guy. Here the dial control rules it all, and provides a very wide adjustment range. Side plate takes a bit of finesse to remove. Not best idea to do on the water. Casting distance is fine - but not quite up to my experience with Mag Force or DC reels for "bomb" casting. It's a great reel - a keeper. Karl

All I know is I'm waiting for my guide near Hershey PA to tell me when there is enough water depth to go out. Right now, no. Karl

Self contained units are mostly like toys in comparison to a "real" finder. There are good Li-Ion battery choices out there. Sealed lead acid too - but not as compact. Karl

Nope. Such a thing does not exist. A rod is either FINE or BROKE. (Not impossible to have a Crack - which will quickly lead to BROKE). The fisherman can "break-into" the rod though! Karl

If something feels "funny", SET THE HOOK! Karl

The equally important question is - HOW do you oil your bearings. The only 100% effective way to flush and oil your bearings is to remove one of the bearing shields. Karl

Bubba Shot. T-rig worm (Big Bite Baits - Coontail), with 12 inch 1/8 oz drop shot weight from eye of the hook. Karl

And finally have one out of the water! Karl

Just don't go there on baitcasters. Useless argument. Put in a little effort and be proud of accomplishing the skill to use a baitcaster. It's a great feeling. Karl

Waiting to bid on a Pro! Karl

Swim buddy, Swim! He's gone. Karl