sal669

Thanx for the review !!! But, keep quiet; don't let the whole world know that Daiwa rules !!!

Blue gill patterns that work(ed) for me: >Rapala shad rap, sallow sad rap and DT series >Bandit flat maxx, foot loose(!) and hundred(s) series I run out of some of this CBs, and I found that Baby Bass pattern works as well, if not better , than Bluegill battern. It's easy to run out of a pattern/brand/style when pike(s) bite you off a couple times a day. I'm not in a rush to restock. I make sure though, that I have the foot Loose and the Sallow Sad Rap.

Dang ,Muddy, I almost choked to death !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Not bad at all for a first try ! congrats ! How much time did it take to get'r done ????

I set my drag by"feel", not by lb. I want drag to barely start and give a little bit of line when I give the line a good jerk/pull. I probably set it at about half the line rating, but that's just a hunch. Never did any measurements. And I don't know if it,s OK or not, but it works for me. Tight lines

Hey, I was just trying out the new Avids I got ... :-[ You are not gonna call the cops on me , are you ??? :-/

Well, the guidelines apply for FISHING. We should suggest the manufacturers to set new guidelines for "ALIGATORING" !!!

I would just ad that by increasing the reels gear ratio, it looses torque (cranking power). That's why everybody recomands a lower gear ratio reel for deep CBs . I generaly move my lure (and fish) with the rod and reel up the line. I didn't feel the need for a "burner" yet.

You are right ,Saladmander.... It's a combination of power and action that determines the hooksetting power at the point of the hook. That's why I recomanded using a heavier power rod OR same power but faster action. I should of said: "...the medium power/ moderate action rod doesn't have enough backbone ...." I assumed that we are talking about the BPS CB rod and the action is a given, not "in general" about power/action for SB rods.

What Avid said !

My opinion: The BPS Cranking stick is a good CB , rod . However, I wouldn't use a med. for Spinnerbaits. The medium power rod doesn't have enough backbone to set the havy gage hook in the bony parts of the fish's mouth. I would go MH. Or, buy a BPS Graphite Series, wich was a faster action. My SB rod is a 6-6 MH Graphite Series ($19.99 on sale) with an Extreme 1:6.3 reel.

What model Avids?( Lenght/Power/action). Any MH pover?

Great advice so far ! I would like to just stress a couple things: -It's not the size of the fish that is important in choosing your gear, it's the weight and air resistance of the fly that dictates the AFTM weight of the rod. Of course it's recomanded to have matching reel and line, but is not mandatory. You can underpower or overpower a rod, but not to much. For example: you can use a #5 line on a #6 rod to gain some distance; or use a #7 line to cast bulkier flys, but a shorter distance.Of course the line has to be capable of handling the fly. -For open water I would not fish a rod shorter than 9 ft -For tight quarters on small trous rivers and creecks I would preffer a 7-6, unless I'm nymphing, when I'd pick a 9'-er. I do a lot off "roll casting" in this situations -For any kind of bass fishing I'd go for a minimum #6 with a "bass taper" line or Weight forward, but probably a #7. -For dry fly fishing for trout, I'd choose a #4, or even #3 if the flys go smaller than #18; for wet flys and nymphs, a 9ft # 5 -For small flys i preffer a "softer" action rod, for bulkier flys I think a faster rod works better. Yes, fly rod come with different action, too.(Anybody who cast a split cane rod and a modern/graphite rod could confirm this) -Spend most of your money on the rod & line. -There is not a lot of difference between 2 pc rods and "travel" rods (4,5 even 7 pcs) manufactured recently. -Even todays cheaper graphite rods (the apropriae weight, of course) do a good job in tossing heavier flys a good distance with good accuracy; the smaller the flys the more you gonna feel the need for a better quality rod This is just my opinion (based on about 30 years of fly fishing) hope it helps

I fish out of a 14ft canoe, and I love it, as long as the wind is less than 10mph. Only reason i'll buy a boat is to be able to be on the lake even if the weather isn't so good.

I'd do some crankbaiting first (play with the ones that are willing to play ),then comb the area with the jig (try to mess with the ones that didn't want to play before :).You could give them a break in between. Tight lines

Beautifull brownie, congrats !!! I used to catch cold water smallies with these: http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?id=0000502112374a&navCount=2&podId=0000502&parentId=cat410020&masterpathid=&navAction=push&cmCat=MainCatcat20166-cat410020&catalogCode=2UG&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat410020&hasJS=true Try the most natural looking color (smoke shiner,goldfish or crawdad) in slow, deep pools. Good luck !

Depends what will you be using it for ... See Roadwarrior's article about rod's power & action, and rephraze your question, please.

Stay clear of cheap/junk BC reels. Been there, done that, not good ! But, it's possible to find somethig in your price range($50) I bought a BPS Extreme in clearance for $47.xx ( retail @$80). got a decent workout the last 2 years, and it holds up realy well, adjustments are easy, and it casts pritty good with 1/4oz and up. Look for somethig in clearance and sale. At this moment(?), Gander Mountain has 20% off sale of all clearance items. Thre are good reels for sale in your price range on this forums "Classifieds" DON'T BUY CHEAP, BUY A BARGAIN ! Good luck ( I still prefer my Daiwas)

You plan on fishing right beneath your boat ??? You can have your boat in 10 ft of water and fish in 1 ft of water, or the other way arround. Trying to save some $$$ by tying your line to the tip of your rod? ;D

Good deal !

"X" = unknown quantity "spurt" = drip under pressure ;D I got it : "unknown quantity dripped under presure" : Am I good or what? ;D ;D

Somebody it's gonna buy some swimbait tacke SSSOOOOOONNN !!!

Darn Monkey , go away......... :

WOooowwwW , Dave. Great article !!!

I am using the "backing" aproach, too. I don't strip off the whole line, only to my backing, wich is usualy a heavier test line.I am cutting off the "used" line as often as necessary and deffinitely at the end of the day, and when I'm "low", I respool.