Heartland

Brother the fly crap and pepper are starting to look a lot alike. I'll kindly bow out now.

Probably get by with a H/F if you use the appropriate line and or leader for the bait you are using.

269, but I do mix in a set of eating a pack of cheese crackers and drinking a Dr. Pepper.

Kind of off the topic a little, but I'll mention it since I am a production manager by trade. So I am clear, are you saying by comparison that if you owned a company and someone come in and made a change that yielded a 10% increase in production that it would virtually go un-noticed? I am like you, I like FC for some of its properties more than others, but then again I have never stuck my head in a bucket of pond water to see if I could observe any real difference in visibility without the benefit of the full spectrum of light.

10% is not much is it. So you won't mind if the Gov. goes ahead and takes an additional 10% in taxes out of your paycheck each week, probably wont even be noticeable under the best of conditions. Just messing with you man, has to be some stated benefit or who would be interested. Makes for a hard sale if you just say that, "This line is 90% same as every other."

I love the buttery smoothness of a great glass rod. I only use them for baits with treble hooks, probably a bit old school in that regard. I prefer a CF rod for anything that uses a large single hook and a benefits from longer casts. I also love to be able to feel the instant that blade stop doing its dance.

Heathen

Not at all for me

I like the bomber fat free series of baits, some of the original poes were good, Spro made a crankbait called a prime 2.5, bandit had some good baits as well.

Trying to follow your description of what happened. Are you saying that during a very hard cast the reel re-engaged itself? If so, I have seen it happen on both older Daiwa and ABU reels. There was a board member here many years ago by the Name of Tim, he was from Georgia. I remember talking with him at length about this and what some of the possible causes could be. We also discussed things that needed to be checked after this type of malfunction. I can't remember all the details of our discussion and it was many years ago, but I do remember that one of the most common types of damage was a bent spool pin, this occurs because the pinion attempts to re-engage the spool at a high speed and sometimes results in damage to spool pin, and/or the pinion gear itself. Does your reel feel much less smooth than it did before this occurred or about the same.

I don't disagree with a thing you said, well almost, I have several spools with different dimensions. I still prefer to know how much line I am picking up (all things being even) as compared to gear ratio. Technically it is the number of spool rotations to one complete turn of the handle, but I get your point. I still prefer to speak in term of IPT, gear ratio gives me no idea how much line I am moving.

Anyone ever notice why reels of the same or similar gear ratio often retrieve very different amounts of line per handle rotation? Gear ratio is only half of the equation, I.P.T. or inches per turn might be the better measurement when you start talking about fast line retrieval.

Those sure were some good reels, very durable. Put a drop of oil on the bearings, I prefer a heavier oil on the level wind, makes it a little easier to remove light contaminates if needed. One additional action I would take on those particular reels is to use a little acetone or other common degreaser and put a drop or two on a q-tip, use that q-tip to wipe and clean the brass area in the side plate where the brake shoes ride. After you have cleaned it, use another q-tip and add a drop or two of light oil to it and run it around the same area you just cleaned. Check all the brake shoes for wear and clean and very very lightly oil those as well. Those reels are really solid, should be fishing again in no time.

I read his statement to read that by backspinning he means that the spool is free spinning while the reel is engaged. If this is the case, and it may not be as I could have easily misunderstood his problem, then it could certainly be the drag or AR. Drag washers being worn down beyond useable would give the same effect as loosening the drag completely, which in turn will let the spool spin even while the reel is engaged. AR bearing rollers not engaging properly on the inner tube due to heavy grease, damage, or in need of cleaning would enable the spool with the handle to spin while the reel is engaged and the reason for my question. I agree it could be multiple problems, spool pin issue, worn springs that fail to hold the pinion engaged any number of possibilities. Just trying to help a guy out and give him a couple of places to look before he spends money on something that he may be very capable of diagnosing and repairing himself. I believe that is acceptable by the posted rules of the forum, if not please correct me.

There are a lot of characteristics to line that in my experience have more of an impact than color. Lot of them have been mentioned. Things I look at are knot strength, abrasion resistance, and memory these are high on my list. Base your choice off of personal experience and confidence, not others opinions.

I.P. T. ?

Does the handle turn with the spool when in backspins? If so good chance it is the anti-reverse bearing. If not, could be a few different things, a good place to start is the drag.

Don't think I have ever given any real consideration to a dedicated spinnerbait rod. I usually just pick a rod with a F or XF action, line depending on the cover, length depending on the type of casting. Seems like most rods work fine with spinnerbaits if you match them to the conditions.

Do your own research, and use whatever gives you the most confidence. Experience on your local water is a much better teacher than anyone's opinion.

Jointed shad rap

I don't know how much use you have on the reel but in my experience reels in general perform better if you do your own cleaning and use high quality oils and greases. May not need a deep cleaning but does sound as though it would benefit from the AR bearing being cleaned and a little lighter oil/grease be used during the colder temps.

The handle is turning when it "slips" means the drive train is engaged. Most likely the anti-reverse bearing. Probably the combination of temperature and too much grease. The combination of the two does not let the bearing engage the tube.