@reelChris

I get that if they try and compare results from a random day on the same lake. But, if they're fishing on the same day, starting and finishing at the same times, why wouldn't be a valid comparison to the tournament standings?

To anyone with a boat who hasn't fished a tournament before, you can test your skills for free without the hassle of actually paying the entire fee. Just fish the same lake at the same time as the tournament and then hang around the weigh in to compare your results with those who actually entered. You'll learn a lot about tournament fishing and likely be surprised on how high up you score.

The tangles are secondary to the main problem that the rig is way over complicated. There's no reason to use a clip and a second swivel to attach the leader/hook. Just tie direct to a a triple swivel and you'll save a lot of unnecessary hardware. The second clip for the weight can be eliminated with a dropper or loop knot.

https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Zoom_Midsize_Brush_Hog/descpage-ZMSBH.html TW has them

In the future, a cold chisel and a hammer usually go right through the brass center of the impeller.

Good explanation of getting the lower unit off a mercury 110 from the same era starting at 1:16. Note his rubber mallet technique. Sometimes, you need to use a piece of 2x4 and hit that with the mallet to persuade a stuck lower unit to come off. Make sure you have something soft underneath it though, because oftentimes they'll come flying off after being hit.

Cut hooks: https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/pliers/6-in-diagonal-cutters-63816.html Crush barbs and unhook fish: https://www.harborfreight.com/5-34-in-needle-nose-pliers-63815.html 2 tools, total investment: $4.48. They won't last forever in wet conditions, but $4.48 only gets you so much.

So, two things. First - I'm working out of a 17' tracker, so not the biggest decks in the world. Also, I just noticed I wrote in the initial post that I couldn't get to the net on the bow, but I meant the stern. Sorry, airhead moment. Anyway, today I tried out AJ's method of rod's mostly on one side of the bow and the net on the other. It didn't really get in the way despite the limited deck width and was obviously much more accessible than putting it in the stern. I meant to try putting it on the driver's seat against the steering wheel as well but ended up getting off the water to avoid a storm and never got to it.

That's weird, they're also on sale for the same price from Midway. Is there a new model coming? Anyway, they have all four gear ratios in right hand retrieve: https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/1022113545?pid=234861&utm_medium=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Fishing+-+Reels&utm_content=234861&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIut6jqpOX6wIVCNbACh2yfw6PEAQYAyABEgJ_efD_BwE

If I laid it on the front deck I'd have to stand on it while fishing

I usually fish alone. By the time I get a fish to the boat, I can't reach a stern net from the bow and I don't want to run to the stern to grab it because I'm tangle prone. I'd like it within arms reach, which is why I tried to put it in front of the console, but the steering wheel idea might be a decent compromise.

Where do you put your landing net while you're fishing? I've tried laying it on the bow deck but I couldn't get to it when I needed it. I've tried laying it sideways in the cockpit area with the handle on the casting deck, but it always falls over and becomes a hazard. My most recent brainstorm was to mount a vertical rod holder to the fill the dead space in front of my console so the net was reachable from the bow or stern. Before drilling holes in the boat, I tried this hack: The cooler fits in front of the console, and the net stayed nicely in the holder. However, while the vertical mounting kept the net out of the way when I was moving around, it really got in the way of casting. So, thank you duct tape, you said me from unnecessary drilling. And, I am officially out of ideas on net placement. Am I missing something, or is every place on a boat terrible for storing a net?

I like the Havoc pit boss, but as I run out of them, I'm finding that the Missile Baits D bomb works just as well and is the same price as the new pit boss.

In stock, but shipping is a little steep. https://vandamwarehouse.com/black-painted-worm-weights-by-bullet-weights/

I think main power comes from the starter battery up the right side of the boat to the switches in the console. Wires then run from the console switches to wherever they terminate. There's basically a rats nest behind the console. I suppose you could take the front deck off and know for sure.

I can't tell you which boat to buy but I can say this - hold back $1-2k of your total budget for equipment you'll need pretty much immediately after you get the boat. E.g.:. Bow electronics, trailer spare $100, extra battery $200, multi back charger $150-200, boat buckles $100, keel guard $150, boat cover $500, life vests, emergency paddle, flares, anchor, transom saver, extra props for gas motor and trolling motor, storage containers for tackle, rods sleeves, net, livewell additive, culling system, boat fenders, various ropes/lines, tools for emergency repairs, first aid kit... The list of mandatory equipment is long and easily overlooked when shopping.

I'm working on installing a 3 bank charger into a 2019 Tracker pro 170. The boat has 3 batteries, so all of the available space in the "battery compartment" in the bilge is taken. That being said, I'd like to install the charger in the bilge to minimize cutting holes to run wires. There is room to install a 3 bank charger on top of the gas tank, or between the tank and the bulkhead to the next compartment, however, it would be a tight fit and force the mounting location to be the aluminum divider between the compartments. So, I have three questions - 1) is there anything wrong with affixing the charger using adhesive to the top of the fuel tank? 2) is the aluminum Tracker uses strong enough to screw a noco 3 bank mini charger (about 8 lbs) directly to; and 3) am I wasting my time because a better mounting location exists? Photos for reference: Charger could go here on top of the fuel tank: Or roughly here on the aluminum bulkhead. Less venting available, but at least not sitting on the tank. Thanks!

No, but the Bomb Shot works pretty well and it has the same basic shape as the Ned Bomb. Like all drop shot baits, it's prone to tearing if nose hooked, so I like to thread it on so that the hook point comes out at about 1/2" into the body of the bait.

I don't know anything about your specific boat, but I had the same issue with a different one. I thought it was the old drain plug, and it was, to a degree, but it was also leaking elsewhere. A new drain plug is usually cheap insurance, but I'd also look the whole boat over for other potential leaks, like bad rivets or welds.

I can't believe no one has mentioned this yet but...tree snags. Overhead, next to me, behind me - tree branches seem to reach out and grab rods and line like nothing else.

That thing looks like a basket case. I don't think I'd go higher than $50, but the lack of a title means you'll have to do a bunch of leg work to get it registered. With a 20% coupon you can find almost anywhere, Harbor Freight's $300 trailer would only be $260, probably equivalent to $150 + repair costs for the one you're looking at, and everything would work out of the box: https://www.harborfreight.com/1090-lb-Capacity-40-12-in-x-48-in-Utility-Trailer-62645.html

I guess it depends on what weight motor and trailer you have, but they're not very tough to push around by hand, especially if the trailer has a wheeled trailer jack. I've moved one by myself with a 10 horse 2 stroke, 12v battery and front mounted foot control trolling motor without a trailer jack with very little problem.

Masking tape to ID the hooks, duct tape to block them from leaving

I've never looked at a newer model 120, but if they have the same access hatch as the old ones, you can add a bilge pump through the floor into the lower half right by the drain plug in the stern. So long as the pump reaches the bottom, it will draw water out of the lower half. This one pictured pumps the water overboard in an effective but somewhat inelegant manner. It's wired into one of the accessory switches on the gunnel. There's no automatic mode. These photos show the extension of the pump into the lower half (and some gross spray foam), including the depth at which the pump will scavenge vs. the drain plug.

Every vest model is slightly different, but it sounds like the manual pull tab was pulled and not reset before you installed the new CO2 cylinder.