CountryboyinDC

They make my favorite hollow paddle tail swimbait (Money Minnow). My brother uses nothing but a pumpkin with chartuse tail Dinger on the upper James River. I didn't know everything was made in USA, but I'll have to look over the offerings again.

That's funny, I had been using a Senko-like bait from Missle Baits in a similar laminate called milk money. I use it Neko rigged and only had luck in water that was at least somewhat stained. Considering how many more big fish you're catching, maybe I need to give this a shot in some clear water.

The ones from American Legacy are the discontinued Lowrider 20 series. They're US made, but they run on the slow side (taper) for their ratings. They may fit your needs, but the models they're selling are somewhat shorter (which may suit you since you didn't like the 7'6 lenght). Falcon also has the US made Jason Christie that runs about $100. They're not really that light or sensitive (I have a couple) and they don't have anything longer than 7'3 in this line either. Between the 2, a Lowrider 20 for $90 would definitely be the better one.

So do you wipe off the excess on the worm gear (or I guess the other ones too), or just let them sort of drip dry? I had been using grease on metal worm gears and oil on plastic ones, and it looks like I was wrong on both counts.

This would be a good place to start IMO. I once forgot to put the spool tension spacer on my Curado 70 (I think they're similar), and it behaved as you describe. Either way tight or hopelessly loose.

I haven't used the Z-man, but it's probably the ticket. If not, Big Bites makes a grub that's no more durable than Zoom or Kalin, but it comes in 25 packs that'll give back change from a $5 bill.

Thanks for posting. I was thinking you were talking about the Stradic FK, which I just bought a few months ago. I looked up the price of a Stella; I don't think there's any danger of me buying one of the defective ones.

I haven't lived near (within 30 miles) there for more than 20 years and I'm trying to figure out where you are that puts you 20 minutes from the James, but an hour from any other place to fish. Maybe Amherst or somewhere. With a 12 foot jon boat, wouldn't Leesville or something be better than that part of the James?

Of those with stability being the principle concern, definitely the Big Rig. It's a good thing you don't care about speed, because there isn't much of that with the Big Rig. I've never seen the Diablo Amigo in person, but I understand it's like the Native SUP/kayak thing. I don't think you can find a kayak with Big Rig stability unless it's a peddle drive like the big Pro Anglers or Native Titans. I think from what you said was important that's the best choice.

I had to get some help from Google to make sure all those bumps to my head hadn't made me remember wrong. I came across a site called Tackle Tour, and their review mentions that it used to be 'natural color, a very subtle amber/yellow kind of tint.' It's been a number of years since I first came across it, so maybe that's been changed for a while.

I think you'll like them. When the summer gets in full swing, I'll probably be using these all the time, either on a light jighead or on a size 4 EWG hook Texposed with a small worm weight. The great thing is when you start catching them every few casts you may only have to adjust them on the hook every few fish. I've never needed a new bait on a single trip (unless I lost the whole jighead).

I like all of these, particularly the first 2 lines. I was a huge Case hellgrammite fan (still am), but I've run into another that is made of a plastic like the Z-man baits. They last for 10+ fish usually, although they are harder to rig in certain cases (think jighead with wire baitkeeper). They are NikKo Zaza, and I buy them from the outfitter that shuttles my kayak, but I see they're on Amazon now. These and the Z-man baits last an amazing amount of time, and I'm turning to them more and more for smallmouth in skinny water.

I've never tried this reservoir, but it seems like a reasonable place to take a kayak (as opposed to Lake Anna). I may have to take the family some time soon.

I've never bought it, but once was given 20' or so of Tatsu. It was a sort of straw color, rather than clear. After that, everytime I'd see line that color, I'd look at the tackle and sure enough it would be a tackle geek with heavy JDM reels, etc. I saw some on a spool at a recent fishing event and now it's clear too! Has the line changed? That would be a shame, I could tell from the small piece of leader this was the most manageable FC I'd ever tried, and would probably do wonders for folks who fill their whole spool with the stuff.

I have almost no experience with Lews rods. I have a single panfish rod withbWalley something or another written on it that I bought when I got an unexpected opportunity to do some stream fishing. I own one Ikos, a spinning 7' ML/F that says 'Shake' on it. I use it quite a bit, but I wish I had paid the extra $55 and bought the same profile Zolo that I had tried before I bought the Ikos. The Zolo is much more sensitive, has better guides, and has a better warranty. The Zolo line has some tapers/powers that people really seem to dig, especially the frog model. I think they line has a model you'll like, and they're helpful if you call. Made in USA is important to me, so ALX has been getting some of my business lately.

This would be my choice. I don't have one myself, but in that price range a bunch of guys have Quantum Accurists.

My dad. He'd keep a 2 ounce sinker on a rod he wasn't using in case someone crowded us. Used it as a 'warning shot'. One day I got to see how a cheap fiberglass rod shatters.

I haven't been doing it for decades, but this is a lot like what I do. I always get asked why I use shrink tubing instead of o-rings. I do use a flurocarbon leader 6 lbs or so (whatever is rigged usually), the 1/0 VMC Neko hook, and a Missle Baits 48 worm. There isn't a lot of money in this rig.

If it's still, a topwater bait (I prefer a small torpedo bait) is a good choice. If they won't hit that, I usually change to a square bill or spinnerbait, depending on conditions, until I find where they are hanging out. Like Scott F said, it's about finding out where they are more than the bait, although you'll have a hard time convincing people that.

No, I probably should have said that a little better. I'm just talking customer service. I hope that doesn't start a war.

Lews, just need to get something in their line like the DC or SV spool. I still like the BB1 and Tournamnet MB better than anything if the bait is 3/8 ounce or more. Definitely better customer service with Lews. Both are better than Shimano, Abu, and 13.

At the sub 5' mark, my favorite jerkbait is a Baker, a little deeper is the Ima Flit 120. I have a number of Rapalas and Koppers Livetarget baits, but I probably haven't caught even 1 fish on a few of them. I don't go out in sub-50 degree water, but the guys I know who are really good with jerkbaits like the Vision and Pointer lines.

I've got a couple of the Omega rod holders - the lower one with one pivot when they first came out and the one with 2 pivots. The lower one was too low for my use; I couldn't get my longer handled rods out. I use them on my front track rail. I guess you could use them behind you, but you're definitely going to have to turn around to get them in and out. The rods should stay put once you close the locking collar.

I'll sell mine for $200, slightly used. I think $60 was about right for this reel. It's heavy, and it's not for everyone. I don't mind the fact that the bail will turn almost a turn before the auto-reverse kicks in, but the rear drag is different from everything else, so when I do use it (not often), I have to remember where everything is. But at $300, I'm thinking a Stradic or something with money to boot....crazy.

As most folks responding have said, if fishing out of a kayak seems cumbersome at first, that's normal. With a kayak, there will always be a compromise, either with the equipment or how you approach things. I don't know about your specific kayak layout, but if it has them, rods in rear facing flush mounts tend to get in the way of casting less, though they make it a pain when you're carrying it. Another nifty mounting solution is the Ram Tube 2008. This mount will leave your rods higher, but you can adjust the angle. Guys who troll for walleye and the like love them. I made a crate a while back, and there's no way to adjust the rod holder angles. I use my crate to carry pretty much everything but the paddle, so rods at other angles would make it less useful to me. The point is that in order to make a kayak work, there have to be some compromises.