LAO162

I've been using 3/0 Gammy EWG believing they were the standard. But yesterday some of the links on the GYBC site lead to articles where 4/0 and even 5/0 hooks were being used with Senkos. So, it got me to wondering... I've also been looking for hooks to use wacky style. Glad to hear that the weedless wacky hooks are effective. If I can find some, I'd like to see how the weedless wack hooks work on the rocky bottom of the quarry where I fish. Thanks for the input

What size hooks do you use for Senkos (5 inch)? I assume that they are typically offset, wide gap hooks. Please leave details in the comments. Thanks Leon

Just recently, I started fishing more seriously with plastics and jigs. I have been watching the line and it takes quite a bit of concentration. When I switched rods and started using my Fenwick Techna AV (MF) I found it to be a day & night difference in terms of feeling the bottom. I got so excited that I ordered a MHF the next week. So, depending upon your budget, the rod can make a difference in feeling the bottom. However, I think it is still important to watch your line. Line movement will still give you information that you may not feel when the line is slack. The right sun glasses (or prescription in my case) might help. Cheers

If a stiffer rod is sought for jigging, how does the sensitivity of the Cumara compare to the Avid? Thanks

Thanks Natural. Now that you've graduated to higher-end rods such as the IMX & GLX, what is the least expensive rod that YOU would want to fish yet, i.e. sensitive enough that you're not wishing you had your premier rod with you. Cheers!

Steve, 7' is a good length to get distance for open conditions (where I used to do a lot of my fishing). I found a new place that has great cover for fish, but poor access to the water for the angle. Sometimes I'm casting under trees or trying to cast through a 2 or 3 ft openning in the cattails. The longer rod doesn't seem to allow as much control over the tip when working the bait. Also, so far I have been more comfortable with shorter handles. 7 footers usually have a longer handle than 6'6" rods. I can easily cast & control my 6'3" Crucial and its 6.25" handle with one hand. Muddy, I knew you were using at least one Fish Eagle II. I'm shocked to see you abandon your Pfluegers If I remember correctly, extreme sensitivity is not a primary consideration for you. So, I assume that you are a line watcher. This weekend, I had an epiphany when I realized how sensitive my Techna AV was. Having used it mostly with moving baits, I was astonished at how different it was to feel the rocky bottom (in contrast to my prior rods). Has me hooked on sensitive rods for bottom fishing.

What is the least you would spend (street) to get a satisfactory Jig Rod. Please comment about your model preferences and your style of Jig fishing. I am assuming that Jig fisherman who primarily watch the line can get away with less expensive rods than those who rely on feel. I would like to start Jig fishing and would like a sensitive rod that transmits the strikes. I'm looking to see if it can be done for <$200 or even <$150. I found that my Techna AV is substantially more sensitive than my Crucial, but at 7'0" is a bit long for bank fishing. Thanks Leon

Thanks RW. Part of my strategy is to keep my eyes open. However, with funds available, I'm afraid I might do something impulsive and silly, such as applying some funds to the kids College Savings Play ;D

Thanks

Thanks, any thoughts about adding a quality reel before another rod? Another rod would mean having more spinning rods than spinning reels.

An IMX would certainly satisfy the monkey for a while. Maybe I can find more "junk" to sell and increase the Paypal account.

I'm looking for suggestions on how I should add to my fishing gear. I have some funds in my PayPal account. I'm hoping to negotiate $150 of it for fishing gear. Unfortunately, I do not have any tackle shops in my area that stock gear above the Shimano Compre & St Croix Premier range. My situation: I consider myself fortunate if I can squeeze in 2.5 hours of fishing per week during the summer. I fish only from the bank in 2 environments. Open water with little obvious structure. Here, I find casting distance to be important. Pond/quarry surrounded by cattails & trees. Sometimes there is little room for casting. The quarry bottom has lots of rocky structure of various sizes. The vegetation is not matted. Some of the areas are heavily pressured. I do not expect to encounter many bass over 3 lbs in these areas. My current gear: Browning Midas (boron) Spinning 6'6 MF with Stradic FH 2500. It has a somewhat softer/slower tip so I would consider this to be my cranking rod. Shimano Crucial 6'3 Spinning MXF with Daiwa Exceler 2500. This has become my main rod. Its short handle is great for casting one-handed in the crowded areas. I actually prefer the Exceler to the Stradic because it casts significantly further. Line management is equivalent. Fenwick Techna AV Casting 7'7 MF with Revo S-L. I consider this to be my plastics/jig rod. It also has the most backbone of the group. BPS Extreme Spinning 6'6 MF has been retired. I'm still more comfortable with spinning gear and I'm not as comfortable yet with 7' rods with long handles. My thoughts Either a quality spinning reel (leaning towards Tierra 2500 or possibly Stradic 3000) or a 6'8 MHF spinning rod to complete my spinning needs. I like the Crucial Drop Shot rods and find the Powell Max to look appealing. The Avids I've handled haven't impressed me as much as the Crucials (or Midas). On paper, the Cumara is exactly what I would like. However, $200 is stretching my budget (unless tomorrow's trip to the Casino is successful). On the other hand, I could invest in some quality baits & terminal tackle... My strategy is to fight off the bait monkey long enough to find the right deal on the most appropriate piece of equipment. BassResource has been a great source of information for me over that past year. Thanks for your guidance & suggestions. Leon

Our town pond is heavily fished, but mostly by trout fishermen. My best from that pond came on an X-Rap. I think going for reaction bites could be a good strategy. Without obvious structure to pinpoint their location, you have to hope you catch them as they are cruising by. In the smaller ponds I've fished, bass often swim "laps" or cruise back & forth in certain stretches. Try to determine those patterns. Then, you need to hope that when your bait is in front of them, it is enticing enough to get a strike. Patience is a virtue. Cheers!

Thanks for the insight

Thanks for piping in RW. Do you think that its new pricing point has moved the Stradic FI out of the "Consumer" level discussions into a "Prosumer" level? Or put another way, is it now priced above the other mainstream products that receive the most attention?

Thanks for all the recommendations. It seems like there are a lot of great choices. I find it interesting that the Shimano Posse is not making a lot of recommendations. The new line of Shimano spinning reels doesn't seem to generate much excitement this year.

Thanks RSBreth. What size Supreme do you have. I'd probably go a bit larger with the Supreme since my goal is to stay about 10 oz. or less. Although I don't need capacity, I have bought into the benefits of a wider spool. Do you have the 30 or 35 size? Cheers

In the 2500 size range, what are your favorite spinning reels for under $130. To me casting distance and line management are the most important aspects, then durability, weight & smoothness. Capacity is not a factor to me. I've been enjoying my Exceler 2500 more than my Stradic FH because it casts substantially further. So, I'm looking for alternatives to the new, and more expensive Stradic FI. I'm leaning towards the Daiwa Tierra (or Cabela's Prodigy). But, the Cardinal 800/700, Pflueger Supreme and even the BPS Mag Spool series also look like they have potential. Thanks Leon

I've got a new Revo S this year as well. I have only 2 brakes on. If I have the spool tension fairly tight, I don't get any backlashes and use only minimal thumb. However, I also don't get much distance. Lately I've been loosening the spool tension and "whipping" it out harder to get more distance. The expense has been more backlashes. I think to become more proficient with a baitcaster, we have to take some more risks. Sort of "no pain, no gain." So, I consider myself still in the process of "educating my thumb." **** Luck! Leon

I haven't used my new Crucial yet (hopin' for some action this weekend ), but I have used an Exceler on a lightweight 6'6" MF rod. The Exceler 2500 seems slightly larger than the (old) Stradic 2500 FH, but it is not a meaningful difference to me. I had the Exceler on my backup rod, but recently realized that it outcasts the Stradic FH by a substantial margin (consistently 10 to 20 ft). For me, the difference was reaching distant structure with the Stradic and casting 10 to 20 feet past the structure with the Exceler. The difference resulted in fish from a previously unattainable area. Cheers

You might want to consider moving up to the next size in order to get more capacity. If I was consistently getting 100 yards from a Cardinal, I would stay loyal to the design. Why mess with a good thing. Cheers

A couple weeks ago I switched my Daiwa Exceler 2500 spinning from my backup rod to my primary. I gained a consistent 10 to 20+ feet over my primary. With my prior reel I could only reach a couple of distant pieces of structure, but not get past them. Lately, I have been getting significantly past the structure (resulting in caught fish). My prior reel was a Stradic FH 2500. Conclusion: Exceler & Stradic both have good line management - no twist problems this year. But, the Exceler outcasts by a meaningful margin. I prefer to fish with the Exceler.

TWH, I'm still better with my spinning outfit, but may be more accurate with my BC. Lately I've been using spinning gear because my new spot has lots of reed, brush & low lying tree limbs that can affect my casting. Cheers

I've never done a lot of topwater fishing, but last week I decided to try out the Skitter Walk and see if I could "walk the dog." Within a couple casts, I was doing it in a convincing manner. This week, I started with the Skitter Walk early in the morning. I never took it off because I was doing so well. I found the Skitter Walk easy for walking the dog (7' rod), effective, and heavy enough to cast well. I have a new confidence bait. Leon

I found a quarry to fish. It has reeds along most of it, large rocks and even some stumps. Some of the more open spaces involve casting under tree limbs. I'm thinking a short spinning combo would work well since there are so many obstructions to interfer with the cast. Also considering 20-30 lb braid to help save a few lures from snags since I can't reposition myself to pull from another angle. Initially, I'd be using a Stradic FH or Daiwa Exceler in the 2500 size. I'm looking for suggestions on a short, strong & sensitive spinning rod. This rod will cover most techniques, but I have a 6'6" MF spinning and 7'0" MF casting worm/jig rod already. Shimano CS said that the Crucial 6'0" MHF should be able to handle braid. In the same price range the Daiwa Light & Tough 6'0" floating worm rod looks pretty verasatile. I've seen a G Loomis SJR IMX 724 for around $150, but I'm concerned it would to too heavy. The Powell 604EF might be out of my price range. Are there ary other alternatives in the $<150 or something exceptional <$200. Thanks!! Leon