LAO162

Just take a black Sharpie to the letters on the reel cover and it will be a nicely color coordinated accessory ;D

LH retrieve for both. It was too distracting to learn to switch hands and the reel with the other... From a practical perspective (at least to my ILLOGICAL mind ), switching hands is another action that can adversely impact the balance of a bank fisherman. Occasionally, I'm standing on one foot atop a slippery rock, reaching out as far as I can, and backhanding just so that I can get into that little spot on the other side of the brush. Switching hands just adds to the possibility that I'm going to take a really cold bath

X2 Medium Fast Spinning, usually 1/8 to 1/2 oz lure rating, will be fun for most Northeast fishing situations. Panfish, Bass & maybe even trout. If you get "hooked" on bass fishing, it is likely that you will eventually want to move up to a Medium Heavy rod to handle the large lures. At the <$100 range, it is hard to beat the BPS and Cabela's combos that feature their proprietary rods (Only when ON SALE). The sales today aren't as good as they were before the holidays... However, it is a great time of the year to find closeouts and clearance deals on higher end gear. Also, make sure your budget includes room for line, lures etc. Cheers

I like so many... but currently Fenwick suits my needs and budget

If going the Medium power route, make sure you are confident that the rod is stiff enough to set the hook for your style of fishing. My favorite MF spinning rod is great all-around, but (for me) it has a bit too much flex for bottom techniques. A medium fast rating is not consistent across manufacturers. A few MH rods have lure ratings down to 3/16 and even 1/4 oz may work with a 6" Senko.

I think the angler and his experience are probably the greatest part of the equation. However, when it comes to rods, sensititivity is not purely in the numbers. My IM8 rods are more sensitive than my IM9 rods and my 60 million modulus BPS Extreme is not as sensitive as my rods with lower modulus numbers. Also, I think there is a difference between transmitting bites and general vibrations. My IM9 rods seems more sensitive when tapping it on the hard floor, but the IM8 is more sensitive when tapping it on carpet. At the water, the IM8 transmits far more useful information, and is the one I trust most. Just my observations

x2 I believe SiC is a step up from Alconite. Part of why the Pro Finesse is a great value.

Thanks for the ideas, I might keep at least one spool with 20 or 30 lb braid (introduces new topics for me to research ) and experiment with copoly's or mono on the other. I think Suffix Elite is available locally, along with some other favorites. Anyone use 10lb Big Game? Thanks!!!

How would Yo-Zurin UltraSoft #10 (or alternatives) work with a Tierra 2500 spinning reel? I'm looking for something stronger the YZ-US #6, but still reasonably manageable. The #6 YZ-US was stronger that other #6, but not strong enough to reduce the number of lost baits (Reeds, Rocks, Timber...) Since I'm using this setup for fishing the shallow area of a quarry, I suspect #30 braid will not be best around the rocks. I plan to continue using #12 (and above) with my baitcasters and #6 with my finesse spinning outfit. Thanks for your suggestions. Leon

With an ultra light you may not have a stiff enough tip set the hook on a keeper bass - keep your hooks really sharp. Some Medium Fast rods are a good compromise for ME. Enough backbone for bass, but light enough to be fun with panfish.

I've had great experiences with my Exceler 2500. Admittedly, the bail does sometimes trip on the cast - about twice as often on my Stradic 2500 FH. It can also be tricky when tripping the bail by turning the handle (not a problem since I close by hand). The reason I usually choose my Exceler to the older Stradic FH is the line management. Few line twist issues and I get consistently more casting distance than the old Stradic. To save a few dollars on the Daiwa, consider the Cabela's Tournament ZX or Prodigy when they are on sale. Both Shimano & Daiwa are great choices.

I'm equally likely to miss the side of a barn with either one. The reeds and trees at my pond have enough of my baits to prove it ;D One advantage of the baitcaster is that if I can see my bait is going in the reeds, I can instantly stop the forward progress with my thumb. It's not as quick to stop with a spinning reel. Even if I'm casting into open water, I try to visualize the place where I want the lure to land. I also try to practice different trajectories to get to the same place.

I like the idea of separate boxes for clear & stained water. It would give me incentive to keep TWO boxed fully stocked instead of just one. (this idea is fully endorsed by the Baitmonkey )

Two years ago I thought my box that held 3 3700's was huge. Now, it only feels that way when I'm hauling it to the bank with 2 or 3 rods. But, that's another topic

Thanks! So far my color selection is pretty basic: greenish, brownish & blackish. I started experimenting. Top to bottom row: 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2. 1/4 Spot Removers all the way to the other side in original packing. I haven't paid enough attention to weight yet, so for this year I will probably not mix. It's working out ok because I have only 2 kinds of jigs so far (and I don't need to keep the packaging to remember the brand). I'm hoping that by concentrating on filling the 3700 box with jigs the Baitmonkey will stay focused on tackle and not be distracted by rods & reels.

Do you sort them by style, size, color, brand etc...? I fish from the bank, so I travel fairly light. I hope to have only one 3700 size box dedicated to jigs & worms. However, I am beginning to stockpile jigs since I lose so many... As I dedicate one or more 3700's to jigs, how refined should my sorting system be. I'm thinking it will make sense to sort by weight and style. I'm not sure about the value of separating jigs futher by color and brand. Thanks, Leon

Patience & Research has its rewards Enjoy

Before Christmas, $99 was a pretty standard clearance price for the Energy PT. However, there don't seem to be many left. I got lucky & found the Tour Edition for that price at Cabelas (plus a coupon ). If you like the reel, you have to weigh the potential of getting a better price versus having them sell out. Cheers!

Since I fish from the bank, I typically lose two to three baits every time out (often due to operator error ) The thought of losing a bait is not the only consideration for me. Restocking my tackle is another consideration. I may not have the disposable cash or immediate access to premium baits to replace lost baits before my next outing. i.e. I can usually find my Rapala or Strike King locally.

When it comes to Shimano reels, it's RW tells it like it is If you haven't done so already, you should call Shimano customer service. The CS reps are top notch and have both knowledge and passion for their products. They will probably describe in detail the differences in both design and function on the water. Enjoy!

So far... I've resisted the temptation to look at gear on ebay. My paypal is at $0. What are the Techna AV's going for on ebay? Wait, no, don't tell...

Step one - determine you budget. What is absolutely the most you can afford in the very best situation. Then, multiply that by value 3. The result should be considered the lower end of your budget range ;D If you are going to try an expensive rod, it is more important to get a rod for the right application than the right brand. A $400 7'11" enthusiast swimbait rod won't be very pleasing if you mostly throw weightless plastics. Many here at BR have stated that your jig & worm rods should be the most expensive because sensitivity is so important to detecting subtle bites. On the other hand, other sage fisherman recommend watching for movements in your line to detect the bites (far less expensive). Once you know the type of rod you need, find several quality alternatives that are near your budget. Be patient and diligent in searching for sales or opportunities that drop them into your budget. I am a casual fisherman & do not get the time at the water to get experience with lots of gear. However, I think jumping up to rods in the $100 may not provide an overwhelming increase in sensitivity. However, you may find better ergonomics, lower weight & better build. In my limited experience, I do not find my Crucial to offer a tremendous increase in sensitivity relative to my BPS Extreme. Even so, the Crucial is far better at meeting my needs than anything else in the Extreme line-up. However, I was "blown-away" by the performance of my Fenwick Techna AV (old design, but classic). So much so, that I immediately ordered another. Even so, I still use my Crucial the most because it meets more of my general needs; the Techna's have specific purposes. I cannot comment on the incremental benefits of other rods over $200. Knowing your budget and needs will help you to get the most. I probably would not have spent the full $200 for my best rods. However, at approx. 50% off I am thrilled by my expensive rods.

I think the new AllStar prices are listed in the Cabela's catalogue. In my price range that puts AllStar in a more competitive position. Since Purefishing seems to have a lot of marketing expertise & emphasis, I wonder if their product lines will have more rebates and discounts than firms with a greater focus on product innovation. Not a knock on Purefishing

Thanks for the insights. As an analyst, I found this to be an interesting topic. And for the record I hope I am always clear that I am a "Wannabe." With only 2 or 3 hours a week during the summer available for fishing I cannot claim to be an Avid or Expert fisherman. However, I do hope I can add value from the perspective of a casual fisherman. Regarding: Yes, we only use Charmin or the equivalent. But, we buy in bulk at the warehouse and almost always use a coupon Regarding priorities, they are different for everyone and change over time. Mine changed quickly once I got married and had children. Before I was married, I was hooked on audio/video equipment and upgrading more than once a year. My last sub-woofer was 1000 watts RMS, 4 feet tall and is flat down to 16 hz. Plus, I had bass shakers in the couches. Now, I find that just plain riduculous. ;D However, I still won't get rid of it Now, I find the difference between a Crucial and a GLX to be 3 months of gymnastics for my daughter. For ME the priority is easy to identify. On the other hand, because I'm passionate about fishing, if I only have $100 or $150 to spend, I want to make sure I get the best value I can. As to the recession, I'm hoping that the innovative entreprenuers have strategies that will allow them to continue offering superior product and values to fisherman. (and to also continue sponsoring BR ) Wow! I type too much. Leon

I've noticed that a lot of attractive rod designs are not offered in "heavier" ratings, maxing out at #14 or 5/8 oz. Fenwick has some spinning rods that are rated up to 17 or 20 lb test. The HMX is well under $100 and occassionally the HMG will be on sale for <$100.