LAO162

I've been using duo snaps with cranks so the knot doesn't impend the action. I also double the loop on clinch knots. Guess I'll be investing more time in the uni. I was playing with some reels today thinking about @J Francho 's method for the uni knot. My lips were far more sensitive than my finger tips

Thanks! You make it sound easy

Thanks, being diabetic I knew neuropathy was in the cards; chemo really sped the tingling (good news-it should slowly reverse over time). Although my progressive glasses are "transitions", they are not polarized. It's great to hear that you've had no issues with the improved clinch knot. I still have a stash of Gamma from 6lb to 12lb. I've tied the Uni knot a few times. My patience will be the biggest challenge there. I'm also planning on starting with only spinning gear. I'm already a master of backlashes and I assume a tingling, numb thumb will only enhance that skill

After an absence of several years, I hope to hit the water again this summer. However, I am concerned about a challenge that may affect my ability to enjoy fishing. Due to my chemo treatments, neuropathy is causing tingling in the tips of my fingers and I'm concerned I may not feel line, hooks, etc. While the palomar knot is probably better suited for most of my fishing techniques, I'm thinking of returning to the clinch or improved clinch that I started fishing with. I hope I have some "muscle memory" left for these basic knots. Are there any other knots I should try to learn. I use either copoly or mono (6-12 lb). I should also add that in the past 5 years old age has caused my eyesight to get worse.

I junk fish from the bank. I usually have 3 with or near me and a couple others in the truck. I always have 1 for weightless plastics and one for shallow cranks & topwaters. The others depend on my mood, conditions or whatever the baitmonkey recently requested.

Having a 4 piece rod at the lake > 1 piece in the garage. My old Cabelas XML travel rods are not my best rods, but they are comfortable and sensitive .

Great idea, I've been looking for a simple means for spooling the right amount of backing

Thanks!

Glad to here the DS Cumara is fairly versatile. I figure your 2 Stradics are like the Fuego & Tierra 2500. I'd been leaning towards the larger size because I find larger diameters have better line management. Especially concerned if moving to fluorocarbon... I'm leaning towards 8lb flouro vs 6lb copoly. Quarry bottoms eat baits and fishing from the bank does allow for much repositioning. Occassionally, yanking will loosen the bait, that's where line strength becomes important. I've had the 2500 Fuego for a year, with no rod for it...If it's too light to balance (nice problem to have) I'll switch it out with something else. I've been using KVD line conditioner with good success. Is it safe to assume Red Lable is a pretty big step down from Invisx?

I'm looking for some advice setting up a Cumara CUSDX72M as a finesse rod. I'm looking to confirm that a Fuego 2500 is a better match than Fuego 1500. Also, I'm looking for line suggestions. This rod will complement an IMX SJR 783, Kistler LTX 7'0 MHF and a few baitcasting rigs. I usually fish from the bank of a rocky quarry. I mostly use 10lb Gamma Copoly because baits get wedged in the rocks, in reeds, or trees etc... The Gamma lets me save a lot more lures compared t 6 & 8lb mono. Sometimes I go down to 6lb Gamma. I'd like to try FC line with smaller baits for a real finesse presentation. I'm trying to balance thinner diameter vs strength. Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks Leon

I have no expertise to offer, but this morning I ordered a Cumara CUSDX72M from TW. It's not the new model Cumara, but for $99.99 it seems like quite a deal. If you're looking for a long, medium power, it might by an option to consider

I find long rods do help to get distance from the bank, but that a short rod is especially helpful with down tip techiques when standing in tall grass.

I found this on Fuji's buy-a-better-rod website http://anglersresource.net/WhattoLookforinaTopShelfSpinningRod.aspx It emphasizes the alignment of the line as it goes though the guides. Added tension on the first guide may cause unnecessary friction. I found it interesting to consider.

If you're going to throw your gear around, you should probably stick with an inexpensive reel until you can control your temper. I'm not passing judgement, just bein' practical :)

Thanks for the info. Fenwick sent me exactly that same info in an email, but I deleted it by accident. I hope to try the Elite Smallmouth eventually. However, it will have to wail because I just got a 7'6" light River Runner instead. I'm very impressed with the quality of the RR and assume the Smallmouth is of the same quality.

I have a couple of the Cabela's XML travel rods. One spinning & one BC. They are surprisingly sensitive and light for their construction. I would not feel handicapped fishing with them.

Loomis has quite a few models (prices) so it is difficult to make a general statement about them. However, they don't have a reputation for breaking when used properly. If you are breaking a lot of rods, it could be related to the way you use, store & transport them. I haven't used an Elite Tech yet, but they feel nicer than my IMX model. I had the older Techna AV models and sometimes regret parting with them.

Is your 6'3" the MF or MHF. I've been looking at these for a while. I'm afraid the 6'9" MXF may be redundant to my 2 MH rods. I don't have a medium rod in my usual line-up BTW, my 7'6" river runner arrived from Reds Gear just last night. I'm quite impressed and anxious to use it. Leon

Check out the lure rating on your rod. If you baits weigh less than the minimum, then the rod probably will not load correctly (won't bend and snap back during cast). In that case you need more weight. Look for some of the weighted bobbers. I'm not sure what they're called, but they were pretty cheap at W-Mart. They made quite a difference for me. Leon

Fishing from the shore around brush and tall grass, shorter rods are more convenient. I also like the shorter handles since I seldom need the extra leverage. However, once I hit more open areas, longer rods are nice for getting more distance,

LH Retrieve is a requirement for me. Fortunately (or not), I'm not sophisticated enough to want a variety of gear ratios.

Thanks, the reason I'm asking is that I have a MH (1/8-1/2 oz) "finesse" spinning rod that is rated as having a fast action. However, it has an extremely soft tip that reminds me of the tip on my light action rod. It is super soft and flexes about 6" to 12" inches further down the blank than my other fast rods. However, after that point it is very beefy. Because of the very soft tip I have considered it to be well suited for treble hooks. For comparison, it is far more robust at the along most of the blank, but the tip is even softer than the Avid MF & MLF rods. I love the feel of the Kistler Argon Finesse, but want to make sure I don't need a dedicated crank spinning rod if this one will do. I do have the Kistler Argon medium CB rod with a traditional parabolic action and it is one of my favorite rods. Since I don't get enough time at the water, I'm trying not to invest in redundant rods that spend most of their time in the rack

Thanks, is that because the slower, parabolic action will give as the fish pulls away, but then still have enough tension to keep the hook lodged?

When it comes to crankbaits and other moving baits, is there a preference for rods with slower action versus those with faster actions, but softer tips? I assume both types of rods will provide some "forgiveness" during the hookup. Thanks

Thanks for the input. I considered the Ci4 and even a discounted Stradic FI. In the end, I went for the 2500 size Fuego since I didn't want to miss out. I figure I still have time to get I Ci4