Jig Man

My Champion has a floor plate under the oil tank. I have to take the batteries out and the oil tank out to get to it and remove it. Then down in the bilge area is the bilge pump and livewell aerator pump as well as my in hull transducers.

I have that same issue with one of my molds. I use house romex electric wire. It is a bit small to hold but a piece of duct tape over the slot then put in the wire works just fine. I have been doing this for many years and had the romex on hand.

No I haven't. I finally just started painting them with a brush and enamel paint.

I hold the jig head by the hook eye with needle nosed pliers. I heat it, then dip it, then hang it and less than 1 out of a hundred get paint on the eye.

The ideal spot would be on a hole shot plate under the jack. I don't have one so I used the metal bar that goes from one side of the jack to the other. If is about 1/4" from the boat. I drilled holes in it and tapped and threaded them. Then, I bolted the lss ducer to it.

Unless you want to lay out some serious cash, buy some premolded and painted jig heads from Mike at Seibert Outdoors. Get them without the weed guard installed (assembly is much easier). Buy some skirt materials from www.fishingskirts.com. Then put them together. Fish them and then decide what you want to do. A decent setup with pot, mold, paint, hooks, lead, skirts, etc can run you hundreds of dollars.

Do you have a jack plate? If so mount the lss ducer to it.

Put cement in a coffee can with an eye screw at the top. It worked for me for a lot of years.

There are a bunch of guys on www.tackleunderground.com who can probably answer your questions.

That is not enough info for a decent response.

What is the worry about water? You're not thinking about putting it on the outside wall are you?

I have 50 of those nasty metal pins that haven't been used since I bought the Teflon pins from Cadman. I bake with the pin in the jig and take it out after cured while jig is hot. I don't have any chipping around the holes. Bending the pin lets most of the paint break and fall off.

Like all outboards it needs to have the lower unit fluid changed at least yearly and a new impellor at least every 3 years along with spark plugs every now and then.

I've never bought used but have sold a bunch of units both here and other web sites. If I were buying used, I'd look for a site like this one and how many posts the seller has. That should help you determine the reliability of the seller.

Charlie Luna used to have them standard on his Cobra boats back in the late 90s. They were fine but you had to keep them closed or they'd corrode.

OK you are talking about assembling jigs not making them. That is probably the way for you to go. Buy prepoured heads and the accessories and put them together. If you are making them from scratch you'd have to buy the mold $35-50, lead pot $50, skirt material $.50 to .75 per jig, hooks / $ .15 to .50 per jig just to name some of the stuff you'd need.

I booked it out on NADA. Taking into account the age of both boat and motor average retail is $16,100. I wonder why the motor is 2 years older than the boat. Johnny Morris' Tracker Marine is way too big to have to use 2 year old motors on a boat. Very few even put one on a year model older. If I were wanting that boat and willing to buy it I'd offer 14,250.97 and see the counter. Don't even round it off to the nearest dollar. That would give them something to think about, thinking you know more than you actually may, and you a bargaining point to start. Don't feel bad about offering lower than they want. You never know what they really have in it.

Did I miss something? I was wanting to see the mold itself.

X2

No matter what bait I choose I want to fish it parallel to the bluff.

Your link did not work for me. If your mold is metal, heat it up a bit. Warm up your injectors. Reduce your plastisol heat. Inject at a slower rate. One of those or maybe all of those may help you solve your problem. I had to do all of them to get one of my molds to work right. Trial and error added to experience is your best bet.

On the serious side I have asked this question of biologists and have been told without cutting them open they can't tell except before the spawn in the spring.

Depending on where you are located should help you make up your mind about your motor choice. Around here I know at least a half dozen places with good qualified Merc. techs. I know of only one place where they specialize in Yammys and no place where they know squat about any other brand.

Let us know how it goes.

INMO your boat size, lake size, fishing style, wind conditions and time on the water should help you make that decision. My friend and I fish the same water. We both have 20+ foot glass boats. He has always had a 36v and I have always had a 24v. His is the 106 MG and mine is the 82 MG. Neither of us has a problem with power and we both fish windy conditions on Stockton and Table Rock lakes as well as the current on upper Bull Shoals in the early spring. I have been running 82s for 12 years and currently have 3 year old Optimas in mine. They are holding up all day long so far.