FishingGeekTX

I've got a few Destroyers (FMJ, Daemos) , OrochiXX (diablo), and a Levante flatside. I think it's mostly about enthusiasm past $100..that and the fit/finish and bling. Once I accepted that, I breathed a little easier. They will indeed, catch fish...much like the $60 Cadence rods (that are nice and light and look nice) I bought on Amazon. I've fished the destroyers well, Orochi is new and not fished, and the Lev ante maybe 5 trips, but broke it choking up on it like an idiot trying to boat flip a 6lbs in a crisis moment. All have that MB fit and finish, similar guide and guide wraps. Handles as Efishin said, is a big difference. I prefer the Destroyer handles. Neither Destroyer nor the XX have hook keepers, but the Levante has one under the grip. The all feel like nice rods, and they all look superb. I'm partial to the FMJ and Daemos, but is that based on some scientific metrics? No way...I probably prefer that style (M and MH fast, relatively stiff but load well) rod from most brands. I can't say for sure, it could just be because they cost more. If you're buying because you love the gear as part of your fishing experience, I think you'll enjoy them. I would advice against rough treatment...while the need no special care, I feel they may be more prone to breakage with improper use than a lot more forgiving rods that allow us to develop bad habits.

Haggard : 1 Lake: 0 I almost lose a rod nearly every time I get in a small boat, I can't imagine a yak. I already bought some of those Cush-it rod floats for my expensive combos, because I have dunked those a few times and caught them at the last second. Makes me think if I get a boat, I should just put a snorkel/mask in storage...

Probably some good threads on this already. Spool tension slows the spool, which reduces casting distance. It can also long-term, damage your reel if tight and you use it a lot, so they say. Brakes are for helping control backlash on a cast (often at the end of a cast), and they too reduce your casting distance the higher they are set. Typically you turn your brakes to lowest possible, and you set your tension based on lure weight. For new people they say let lure drop so it doesn't backlash held out from you at 45 degrees/2 o'clock in front of you, and the line has no overrun when it hit the ground. That's MAXIMUM tension. I walk that back to the point I get some loops when it drops personally. Then you set your brakes at maybe half. Cast a few times, see if you backlash. If backlash, up brakes a click try again. If no backlash, down brakes a click and try again. Repeat until you find the min brake required to control your casting, of that lure, with that rod/reel. Then after this, if you change lures, you usually only have to adjust spool tension based on lure weight. If you dramatically change lure weight, you may have to also tweak your brakes, don't forget that both affect casting distance. I had tension almost off and started to feel my reel was crappy...but I adjusted the brakes and magically I could cast that light lure a mile...and I felt silly forgetting to adjust both if things aren't working out.

You have two questions hitting you. 1. should you financially make this move 2. if you make a move, is the Z20 a good move #1 is your call. Life is short..as long as you aren't putting your finances at serious risk or anything, if you invest time in fishing as a priority...your call. 2. As to the z20, Have you sat in the Z20? If the fit and finish, layout, feel, match your expectations, then there is no reason not to consider the Z20. You already own a ranger, so if you sit in the Z20 and it feels good...then trust your judgement. And that's an incredible amount of boat, warranty, and likely nearby dealer, for such a (relatively) low price. I'm pricing out a Ranger Z518 new with a 150 G2 and it's like $54K ($58 with custom color and 12/10 inch humm) Staggering compared to the Nitro. No, if the actual boat feels right to you, then why the heck not. What if a seat fails...so what...warranty. If it becomes an issue, get new seats, that's what, $800? You're still under $52K...no reason to hesitate if that's the boat you want.

Today it's a buzzbait. - cover water fast with a long cast, straight retrieve - can be a fairly soft gurgle to loud commotion. - can have added clacking/knocking..sometimes added with a tweak of the lure whlie fishing - can skim over weeds in many cases where trebles can't play - durable, no soft plastics to destroy

I think you can fish it any of those ways because it doesn't change the rig really. You could add a swivel to the weight, that might help twisting if it becomes an issue. How you rig it and how it works for you, that's gonna be some trial and error. What makes drop shot a new tool in the toolbox is that it can be rigged basically with no specialized hardware, and offers these two key features: 1. reliably keeps your lure off the bottom by some amount, dictated by the length to the weight and the angle you're fishing it, without a float of any kind. 2. jiggling the line can impart great action to the lure at a fixed depth, without your lure leaving the spot. Using it with light line and tiny lures, is all optional IMO. Fish the line and lure based on location and target fish, it's still gives you those key features. It does lend itself well to finesse, because if someone thinks the bass need a long time to see a subtle, enticing lure, to finally want to bite...dropshot gives them that tool with little effort. It's fished well vertically like jigging around structure , or casted and retrieved...still giving you both features #1 and #2 above.

Moguy1973 has the right idea IMO. Weighted (small weight) screw. I fished a toad today after watching Glenn's video on toads, and he's correct, my Toad without a weight spun. All I had was a heavier weight like the beast scre or vmc drop dead, so it was not ideal, but worked. I opted instead to put the weightless one on, and put a split shot on the hook...ugly but worked. Caught a nice bass on it today, lost both the split shot and the frog though I would use the lightest weight you can, I don't think it takes much.

I hear ya. Hard to find I know. Plenty of MHs in that range though, opens the field up. Here's a M though, that meets your need: http://www.daiwa.com/us/contents/rods/tatula/index.html TAT610MXB M, XF, 6'10, 5-16lbs line, 3/32-1oz Not sure who carries it or if the XF is an issue. I fish a Mojo M, XF on most topwater personally. A Megabass Destroyer Daemos fits those specs too, but $400 Good luck with the hunt.

Fluoro/Mono abrasion resistance compared to Braid is like 10:1. So you have great abrasion resistance. Yes, diameter is a primary factor in abrasion resistance, you will have less if you have smaller diameter. You'll still have far more than braid. I wouldn't worry about it. Fluoro/Mono can also easily be checked for dings that can promot you to re-tie the leader, further reducing the chance of really losing a fish due to abrasion. If you fish heavy rocks, and often have lines break due to abrasion with this line, then I'd consider upping it. Otherwise, enjoy your big spools of line!

Yes, in small bumps I'd not be concerned, as the above two posts indicate, you probably won't notice, or it may actually help. Going from 8 to 10, not a huge bump. You could also consider copolymer to reduce stretch, and keep the diamater (will sink slightly more?), that's another tool you consider using. I recall midwest Ned saying in some cases he uses 10lbs fluoro to help it fall correctly due to larger diamater... Anyway, if you can watch it in a swimming pool and decide for yourself, to set those concerns to rest, that would be ideal.

It's a personal thing I believe, more than some scientific thing. If I had to guess, I'd say it's a back-fill rationalization for why they insist on heavier lines (30-50#), where these same fish are regularly caught on 4-8lbs line. I have done this too, not being snooty. Consider, there is an entire segment of the fishing industry in Japan that fishes BFS, or Baitcaster Finesse, all using basically 6-8lbs test line on baitcasters. Seems to work just fine... Lighter line will cast longer distance, impart better action, and likely spook fish less. One oddity when using light line is that our spools in the U.S. are usually geared to accommodate this (crazy) thinking, so they are really deep. You may have to spool 50+ more yards to fill it with smaller line...check spool cap before spooling. Your reel is definitely an all-purpose reel, and if you use it for light lures it isn't optimal, but it will likely work fine. Because of that I'd probably use 20# braid min diamaters.

At $100, Diawa Tatula XT 7' Medium (fast). 1/4-3/4oz. If I was concerned about big dawg 7/8 oz on that rod (which I'm really not), I'd just throw that one lure on a heavier rod (jig). I wouldn't want to fish 1/2 ounce topwater all day on a MH or H personally, it feels like overkill. sitivity, super strength, etc.). I personally haven't had issues with trebles on fast taper. And if I ever do for topwater, I will consider a switch to mono to remedy since you use braid. I was personally unable to fish a soft top rod with WTD, and I didn't like the casting difference to stiffer tips. I purchased a Dobyn's 705CB for topwater and replaced it with a M/xfast I Mojo I believe.

Short answer is yes, that's overkill for Smallmouth Bass using light lures in finesse applications. 8-15# braid, or 4-8# hybrid, or flouro, would be better suited I imagine. Can you still fish it? Sure. A leader won't fix enough of the disadvantages to make that "solve" the issue IMO. 50# braid for me is only used on frog rods in heavy cover. You asked about disadvantages, here's my armchair over-analysis: Braid's disadvantages are magnified with light lures, and for baitcasters there isn't all that much gain from it using light lures. Some general braid disadvantages: 1. Highly susceptible to wind 2. Floating braid can spook fish and carried around by surface currents due to wind (see #1) 3. Braid without management can more easily damage gear, be it bent hooks, sawing of rod guides, bent spools trying to break the line if hung, etc. It's generally difficult to break off a hung lure...higher test the worse this is obviously. Some general Line Diameter disadvantages: 1 diameter may be the #1 issue that can spook a fish, not line "visibility". Use the smallest necessary IMO (and that will vary from angler to angler!). Braid float/diameter spooking fish is worst in clear water, and least relevant in low visibility. 2 large diameter doesn't cast as far, and this is made worse with lighter lures. 3 a large diameter, floating braid, can significantly interfere with finesse lure action (or help it, all depends on the lure/technique/preference!) So you're kind of combing both disadvantages here by fishing both a larger diameter and braid on light lures in clear water. You can still fish it, as I said, but longer term I'd look to smaller diameter. Consider 15# braid, or 8# flouro or hybrid, depending on your preference, as being better suited to the task.

Keep good tension on the line the entire time you reel them in is #1. It seems like you hook them, but they throw it/work it out. They can't do that easily under tension. Similarly, try to keep them from breaking the surface where they can more easily throw it. As everyone has mentioned, some have better success with a softer rod tip (moderate fast to moderate), and/or monofilament line for extra stretch on top of that. Hooks sharp and a sweep instead of a jerk on hookset. That's about it.

I find bladed jigs fish well in weeds, surprisingly. Jerk it until it starts vibrating again (hard, repeat as necessary)...I sometimes catch them right after jerking through weeds. That's the regular version, not weedless. There is a weedless version too, but I personally haven't seen a need for it yet. I fish it same places I fish frogs, but obviously I don't cast in the spots. In those places no spinnerbait or buzzbait will fish without fouling every cast (from experience), and I can't get a treble hook through either...obviously. Because of that, I tend to leave one tied on.

Sorry to hear about the hand injury! I have various hand limitations as well, but they don't currently affect my fishing. If you fish really light, you may consider baitcast "finesse" gear. I am also trying to make a switch to baitcasting finesse instead of spinning, for lighter lures. It is gaining popularity, so you will have some good options, especially in the coming years. To see how I like it, I purchased this recently for $132 total combo: (on amazon no less) Tsurinoya BFS Baitcasting Reel https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BLRLGLG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Any appropriate power rod, just what I got: Cadence Baitcasting Rod, Medium Light 1 piece https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MDVDFYF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The reel is supposedly designed to cast lighter lures (Marketed as BFS), it's got a shallow, lightweight spool. I've watched some reviews and on-water tests of it, it did well for the price...really well compared to really high priced BFS (which are better but $300-$400 and usually from Japan). Should be able to cast 1/16 and up. But I'd try what folks are saying first, because it costs the least. If you already have baitcasters, maybe you know which one casts light lures best, maybe you could weigh the spools or just guess. In any case, if you load up light line and are having trouble, here are some additional things you might consider trying: 1. Be sure you don't set tension too high, and then turn brakes low, and see how much brake you have to have...you want the least braking that won't backlash. I forget to back off brakes sometimes, I know this is obvious! 2. If not casting far, assuming you have some cheap 8# mono on it, strip off a good chunk of it to reduce spool weight. Reels perform best full spool, so there is a trade-off here. 3. Investigate a custom, shallow spool for an existing reel (might be like $80 so you may just get a new reel?). But if you have a nice baitacaster you want to re-purpose, that might help. 4. Consider a relatively inexpensive BFS setup like above. 5. Go crazy and get a high-end BFS like Aldebaran 30 or something from Japan (or used domestically!). I just got my line in today so I have yet to string it up, but I plan on doing so today/tomorrow and trying it in the lake out front. That's everything I know about it, hope something in there helps.

That's the plight of brick and mortar. Take the time to drive there, walk to back of store, be ignored by kids working there, only to find they are out of stock. Only good news is that you may be able to check stock online, or possibly call and get them to check inventory for you, before making the trip? A hassle I know. I do tackle warehouse these days usually, and I spend a lot more time, and money buying stuff I don't need too But even they seem to run out of key things. After someone really promotes a lure or wins a tournament with one, all good colors sell out. I couldn't get a Cavitron Buzzbait, a Fork swimbait, or a loomis nrx last order..all out. I clicked the "email me when you get it in", so there is that I suppose.

I didn't mean to question why they were all general-purpose.(we all have mostly the same!), only to cover my behind in case one of those was a light finesse reel. didn't think so, but if it was, maybe Aldebaran wouldn't have been the best choice since you had that base covered. Yes, IMO if you plan on fishing lighter lures a significant portion of the time (1/4?) , I'd consider that Aldebaran. You should definitely check the spool line capacity, and ensure you are OK with a lower # test (braid w/leader can likely solve it anyway if you don't want the lighter line on the spool). It may shock you. Thing is, casting light lures is all about low weight spools, and loading up a ton of heavy line will kill performance. No warranty is a risk, that's your call. It's a quality reel from a quality mfg..not the worst of risks. On a L, ML rod, I don't think any other combo will be as good for ned rigs and such, if you don't like/want to mess with spinning gear. Reel test youtube does in-depth on that reel..measures spool weights, details the brakes, etc., so check it out of still wondering.

All will fish great at that price point. Correct me if I'm wrong but your current lineup of BC reels are all general purpose to heavier application. The aldebaran 30 mgl is specialized for light setups, and if you use it for that, I'd get the Aldebaran no contest. The 30 has a very shallow spool I believe, so definitely keep that in mind..it's a very light reel, specialized for lighter lures and a lighter rod. Set up that way, it would hurl those ned rigs and finesse trigs better than most any reel So IMO if you're wanting to round out your setups, and you will always have some lighter stuff rigged up, Aldebaran is the pick. If you wanted a more general purpose reel, I'd go with the Lews Pro Ti. That's next up on my reel list too, I have too many silver reels (met MGLs), and a Lews Hypercast (also sliver) and I like the look and performance of it...I'd like the Lews flagship to compare. I do fish a Concept Z reel also, and I like it, but I feel the Lews/Shimano are more expensive for a reason...they will feel a little more finished IMO.

Fish at normal topwater times/conditions, obviously. Dusk/dawn/night are typically best. Overcast, muddy water, can often extend that through the afternoon. I always try a topwater now and then just because I love it. It goes without saying to try topwater if you see topwater feeding Poppers excel in areas where fish are holding to visible cover, or in some cases may be in submerged cover or hotspot that is "not too deep". It also works well as a slow presentation, if fish are not wanting fast moving/reaction style topwater. Working a popper next to such cover or hotpots, is nice because it maximizes your time and presentation right where you think the fish are. If there are a lot of weeds, it may be hard due to trebles (frog or buzzbait if possible). Similarly if fish are spread out, I would fish a faster lure to allow me to cover more water (buzz, walking, plopper, etc.) If I am bank fishing and only have a few prime areas to cast, I often choose a popper to let me really work the area slowly. Cast. Let it sit up to your patience level (I can't make it much past 10 seconds at worst...some go much longer). I quickly reel slack/jerk, to get a good "blurp". If you jerk on slack line, it may just re-orient the lure and push water, and not get the cup "blurp" action. Let sit again. Repeat until out of cover ( I do faster pauses after the first, personally). You can then work it faster back to boat/shore, pause occasionally. If fish aren't really hitting it on retrieve or out of cover, just get it back fast and cast it back out to maximize chances. If fish are not hitting, you can try a much more aggressive action and retrieve, to see if that generates strikes. If that doesn't work, time to try something else

Well, you're wiser than me. When I got back into fishing this year and heard all the talk of magic setups, I just bought first and asked questions later. No budget (mid 40s), but I feel a bit silly and wasteful But I suppose the only setup I haven't really used much is the swimbait setup..even bigger and more outrageous. I agree with your sober assessment. If it's mostly clear lakes and you max fish 20# braid, small bass, and you already have 3 baitcasters but mostly use your spinning...I'd pass and not give it a second thought, you'd probably hurt your experience with an overly heavy rod and line anyway. They are not a joy to fish all day. You may want to get a smaller frog (like 2.5 inch) if it's smaller fish, might improve your strike ratio too. I'd save up and get a nicer spinning rod/reel that you plan to utilize more, if you really have money burning a hole and want to spend it on your fishing hobby. For pros fishing heavy weeds and mats, being able to quickly horse a fish up over the weeds and into the boat has some of value because of the pressure of competition. In my case, I routinely fish a lot of areas that are so choked with weeds and mats that such, that it's one of the few lures I can even get in there effectively..knowing I'll have to go through big weed beds if I do get a fish.

I hear ya. There are weeds, and then there are weeds. Even a light weight T-Rig will drag weeds/moss back every cast in heavy weeds. Don't be like me and buy a bunch of "weedless" lures, that's my big take-away. Got an inline spinner weedless worm, the spinner collects weeds instantly (Obviously, silly me). Even got a softbody crankbait with 2 frog hooks, it basically collects weeds and brings them to you, very considerate lure. I'm a sucker for new lures, sadly. But aside from a frog and weightless soft plastics, I found to my surprise a 1/4 ounce chatterbait /bladed jig comes through the weeds almost magically. When it stops vibrating, fast jerk...jerk..until it starts vibrating again, which it often does. No idea why it works. I now fish an area where it's not completely choked with the bladed jig after working it with a frog now. Note, that's the basic chatterbait NOT the weedless version (!). And sometimes you can buzz a buzzbait over weeds if they are not right on top, giving you another topwater option if they aren't liking the frog, or if you want to cover water faster. Star reeling before it hits the water!. People fishing from a boat in many areas, can find places to vertically fish. I suppose that's not as easy in shallow clear water though..in those cases, back to the above.

I don't use a leader when fishing braid. For nearly any instance I would not want to use a leader, I would prefer to just spool up that line and not braid in the first place. For people with spinning gear, from what I understand, the lack of memory for braid and the better action while twisted, may may spooling braid, with a leader, sort of "best of both worlds" in the way they fish. But I rarely use spinning gear so maybe they can best answer that. So if I needed abrasion resistance, I would likely just fish mono. If I wanted stretch, I would fish mono. If I want it to sink, I would fish mono or fc. etc.

Match your lure weight to your M/F rating (and your line I suppose if that's not already in check) and you'll do fine for typical use. M/F look appropriate for lighter topwater and 6" soft plastics T-Rigs in average environments.

Lunkerhunt has a good hookup ratio for a soft frog in my experience. I find their legs (in the real leg versions) to tear off too easy, but it's a soft body with large hook exposure. Frogs do have a lower hookup than many other lures, and there is a learning curve with these lures. Typically I will throw treble hook topwater if I can, and buzzbaits after that if I can, and frog only if it's in cover/weeds, in part due to lower hookup. Tips: - Use a hard hookset. Between the soft body, single large hook (double but it's often one you sink), and the potential for weeds in the way, use your version of a "hard" jerking hookset every time. - If not in cover, many have better success waiting 1-2 seconds before hookset, helping improve the chance of engulfing the frog in the case they just had it's edge or legs. I recommend that, it seems to have improved my hookup with frogs. - If in heavy cover, I opt to just set the hook immediately, and try to get them up and over weeds/etc., as fast as possible. I have very low success in letting a bass run around in deep cover for any length of time. Too many potential complications to count.