garroyo130

Is the Mach Crush made in Korea or China? For being a China made reel, the LFS still feels decent enough.

If the fish aren't biting its either too fast or too slow. If that's the case you can send me the Curado K and I will gladly trade you your choice of Piscifun or Kastking reel in the appropriate ratio. ? As most folks said you're likely overthinking this. I am not sure if this is your first reel or not but many people including myself started on a 6.2:1 reel and used that for many many techniques. Buy the reel and enjoy it. With experience youll see patterns in when bass prefer presentations at a certain speed. When the time comes you can just update your arsenal with another reel.

To me its just one more thing that can break which Daiwa may or may not make parts for in the future. The standard line guide is has proven itself to be more than adequate. Then again, it could also be that I dislike change and simply don't like it for the same reason I don't like microguides on rods❔

Get a heavy rod and attach a 1/4 lure. It wont bend. Attach same lure to light action rod. It will bend a lot. Power determines how much it bends. Fast action light rod with that weight will bend near the top. Slow action light rod with that weight will bend through the blank. Action determines where it bends.

Hang a weight or lure on the tip top while holding the rod horizontally. Action will tell you where it bends, power will tell you how much it bends.

Makes me wonder if they companies have a really good profit margin on these reels. Seems you see more and more of these popping up. Lews has several and the new Daiwa's are graphite as well. I guess if the amazon reel companies are taking peoples money then why shouldnt the big players get in on it too?

That lews is graphite framed. Id go LFS before Mach Crush.

100P is 5.5:1 they dont make a Fuego in that ratio. After shipping parts are about $25 straight from Daiwa.

Thanks! I think I'll give the gear oil a shot.

Last question for anyone using grease. Do you use grease on all bearings including levelwind, handles, or oil on some?

Im always confused by the math on the IPT threads. I don't believe that IPT is affected quite as much as is stated, especially on low profile reels running small diameter line. Reason being on a smaller spool, the spool diameter itself will make up a larger percentage of the overall diameter (line + spool). While it might seem like on a reel spooled with 100 yards of line a 50 yard cast would reduce IPT by 50%, you have to account for spool diameter. Maybe someone can check it by manually pulling line, but I would be curious to see what the true difference in IPT is post vs pre cast.

If you haven't considered it, a fuego with a Tatula CT 100P gear swap makes a great super affordable cranking reel.

For spool bearings i have been using TSI321 thinned with electronics grade alcohol at about 7:1. Its held up well and for maintenance between cleanings I usually just give the spool bearings a drop of TSI321. I guess my bigger concern is making sure the other bearings that aren't as easy to access don't go dry. I've also heard grease in non-spool bearings makes reels feel smoother.

When you say bath do you mean you soak them shields on or off? After soaking them do you have to set them out so any excess drains before going back in the reel? Thanks for the response! I try to service my own reels but I'll make sure to recommend you to some saltwater coworkers!

I've been reading up on reel maintenance and while there's tons of information out there, I'm still confused as to what the preferred lube is for non-spool bearings. I'm sure we have plenty of grease users as well as plenty of oil users so please let me know what's your preference and why. Also, is the recommendation different for spinning reels and baitcasters or does the reel size matter? If it makes a difference I plan on using TSI321 as my oil and blue Yamalube as my grease along with Cals for drags.

11 hours ago, Capt.Bob said: "First off were only talking $200.00 rods, not $500!" ... not if you look around https://www.sierra.com/st-croix-rods-avid-x-casting-rod-medium-heavy-7-1-piece~p~859ft/?filterString=s~casting-rod%2F

I'm trying to flush spool bearings on a Daiwa Fuego CT but it appears the bearings have pressed in shields. Am I correct or how does one go about opening these? I am not new to bearings but these look different from others ive seen as the pressed in will typically have a different edge to them. These look similar to regular removable shielded bearings but I cannot seem to find the clip.

Thanks to everyone for responding. Below are examples of what I mean. You'll notice in the caribiner image, the loop was brought above the overhand knot while in the blue knot image it remained just above to the hook end. Example of A. Blue knot Example of C. Caribiner

Hi to all expert knot tyers! In doing some research on how to tie a Palomar knot, I am finding that there are inconsistencies in how people are tying this knot. I know that the main concern is twist but that is not what I am referring to. What I am talking about is the loop end. After the loop goes past the hook, there are 3 ways to finish the knot. A. The loop can be cinched down below the overhand knot (tighten mainline first) B. The loop can be cinched down over the overhand knot (tighten mainline and tag end together) C. The loop can be cinched down above the overhand knot (tighten mainline last) What's the right way/best way to do this?