Reel

I think you are talking about reeds. For that kind of vegetation I prefer fluorocabon ( 20 or 25 pound test). I get more precision with it because of less dig in. Most of the time the water around reeds is clear so the fluoro helps there to. I mostly fish the Sait-Lawrence so I think the water is similar. What is it exactly that you don't like about the 50 pound Power Pro ?

For these application I like sinking braid and I have been going to a heavier fluoro leader to try to get a more horizontal line presentation. Maybe I'm nitpicking but I'm trying to get away from the hinge effect that you get with say 15 lb braid and 8lb fluoro leader. It's not that it doesn't work but you can always get better. I'm using something else right now but I've looking at the new Core G 9 sinking braid and will be using a 10 lb fluoro leader with it.

In Goby water, cheese cake is delicious... One of my favorites also.

I've got only one rule of thumb: It's the three As- Adapt, Adopt, Apply. Works most f the time.

I'm really old school. When I first started using a baitcaster ( a Johnson something... ) they did not make them with the handle on the left.

Maybe try a fairly large Cover Scat. These heavy compact lures work well in this kind of weed.

I have both and my favorite for what you are going to do is the Zodias 7'2'' Heavy. Yes, it's a bit less sensitive but it makes up for it what other qualities like precision and strike force to set the hook. .

They were thick neoprene ( 5 mm, the brand is Bare) and I just fold them in a large box in the SUV. They stay there most of the wading season that is from April to July and then again from September to November. I fish at least 3 times a week during these periods. I put them in a cool garage during the winter months. The only thing I do is cover them so that there is no light. Now I have Orvis lightweights and they are on their 5th year with no problems. Felt soles are available in most fly fishing shops along with cleats.

On poppers and spooks. I make my own with feathers, not hair.

I get a lot of years out of my boots. The last pair ( neoprene) lasted 25 years and I don't take care of them. I use sock style waders with wading boots. I change the felt sole myself every 5 or 6 years. Just make sure you try to remove as much of the old felt you can using a knife. Then glue the new one using Goop. Make sure that you use some tape to hold the felt sole in place and let dry for a couple of days. Then I screw in studs to finish the job. That way the felt holds securely, doesn't get used so fast and I get better footing on rocks and moss.

Some that are good but were not mentionned: the old Berkley Jerk Shad (one of the best with a really fast retrieve), the X Zone Wiphlash Shad ( lots of tail mouvement ) the Gambler Flapping Shad ( really good in the grass ). I use a regular worm hook (5/0 ) and a nail weight placed in the correct spot.

I fished 2 from the list of ten : St-Lawrence (the best) and Toho/Kissimee I fished 5 from the list of 25

This is what I use: Gamakatsu G Finesse # 1 for small baits VMC Spin Shot # 1/0 for larger baits VMC Wide Gap Spin Shot for worms Weights: Mostly 3/8oz pencil type. Nothing smaller and might go to 1/2oz when there is current.

I think the price in the link was in Euros. Maybe I did not look in the right spot.

Right now I'm using Duracells AGM and they are going on 5 years. After that I will switch to Lithiums.

You can tune a swivel to make it perform better. Get yourself a drill and a couple of pieces of wire. Wire one end of the swivel to something solid. The other side of the wire goes from the swivel to the drill. Spin the drill lubricating the swivel with WD40 till it's smooth as butter.

Not a bad idea ! I never use all six brakes on, so might be a better idea (safer) to just glue that one.

I would take the brake off and glue the crack. Then put the brake on again. They are easy to remove.

I fish way north so our reeds are killed during the winter and don't have that segment like bamboo because they grow back every year. They are still hard and you can break off 20lb fluoro if you are not careful. I fish reeds in 3 to 4 feet of water. I mostly fish the edges for smallmouth and throw to the back for largemouth. I also don't bed fish. Season is closed.

The trick with reeds is to get close to where your hook is buried in the stalk and pull vertically. The hook will slice the reed along the fibers and come out at the end of the stalk. I can do that with 10lb line and a spybait without breaking off so it really works.

I love to fish a spybait for smallmouth. I fish the St-Lawrence river and mostly sight fish with the spybait. A lot of times, during the summer, you will see the fish on shallow flats or you'll know they are there because you've caught some before. They will follow that spybait for quite a distance. Nothing is more nerve-racking... and fun as seeing a 4 or 5 pounder cruise up to the tiny lure and take a swipe at it.

For durability, go with a twisted eye, not an R bend. Something like those from Greenfish tackle or Northland Tackle that stand up to pike fishing.

For me, the best Shimano deal right now is the Sellus series. A seven footer in MH will set you back 65$ only. A great rod for the price.

For floating baits, I use mono.

I guess he made the same mistake I did in the beginning. Now I feel better for not using it the best way at first.