newapti5

IPT is related to spool diameter, and how much line left on the spool. So sorry, no common IPT related to certain gear ratio. A 5:0 reel's IPT could be larger than a 7:0 reel's.

Yes, all the above drag upgrades can help exactly that. Also I forgot to mention, the quickest way, probably the cheapest way, to smoothen the drag, is put enough grease on the drag stacks. Did you check the grease level on them drag stacks? Grease may lower the maximum drag force a little, but it'll make it smoother for sure.

Yeah, you are confusing gear ratio with IPT. Here's a discussion about IPT:

Roller bearing is one part to upgrade like mentioned above, but actually I was talking about the drag bearing. It won't make much difference under light load, but it'll make the drag smoother under heavier loads.

I am not sure what the $30 comes from, but you could always get a cheap large one and cut it yourself. It's not that complicated. And here's the drag bearing. It's usually right under the drag stacks, like part #8 here:

Carbon drag washer is the most obvious way to upgrade. Besides that, you can also install a drag bearing if the reel is using a stock bushing. Check the schematics. That bearing would improve drag smoothness under loads, especially heavy loads.

Usually a medium is better suited, but it depends. Some medium heavy rods' suggested lure weight range is 1/4 ~ 3/4oz, which is rather good for jerkbait fishing. I think if a rod's lure weight range falls into from 1/8 to 3/4oz, it's good for jerkbait fishing, otherwise it'll be too stiff. Action wise, some people like moderate. I personally like fast or moderate-fast action. Unless you're using braid line, other lines would be a little stretchy already. I like to compensate that with a relatively fast tip.

Besides all the detailed info mentioned above, I'd like to add that I personally like to use a rod with at least good sensitivity for jerkbait fishing. Most of the jerkbait bites are so obvious that you cannot miss, but sometimes a fish bites and just stays there, especially in colder water. Sensitivity on rod would help me detect that.

That bent washer is probably for factory workers or machines - easier to line up the drag stacks on an assembly line. Just saying.

I keep an Excel file like this handy. Or, Lew's reels have those "line indicator" for this purpose.

Yep, to many people, as long as a reel is not frozen, it's "smooth."

This is what some of us feel, me included. What I meant is someone would disagree with what you said, saying a used Tatula is as smooth as a Zillion. Nothing wrong with that, because there isn't a quantified definition or distinction for what is smooth or what is geary. For fishing line, you can say this line diameter is thicker than that one, because you can measure it. But what "geary" level a reel has to reach so that it can't be labeled as "smooth?" To someone, that reel is good enough to be labeled as "smooth", or even "very smooth;" but to others, it may be classified as "geary. "

I love Tatsu, but the Trilene Fluoro XL is pretty decent for its lower price. Supple, strong, and abrasion resistant, it is designed for spinning reels, but I use it on baitcasters as well. The only weakness is its thicker diameter compared to same poundage Seaguar fluoros.

So this is the "what if" scenario? I'd tell my old self to find another hobby; this one will cost me too much money

IMO "geary" or "smooth" are both subjective terms; there's no actual objective measurement to how smooth a reel is. I have a friend who claims his spinning reel is very smooth, no need for cleaning and maintenance. It's geary as heck in my opinion. Tatula series is not the top series in Daiwa camp. If smoothness and longevity matters much to you, I would suggest getting a Daiwa reel with real dual support pinion gear, such as any Alphas series, or any Zillion series. They can be had for around $200, if you're not in a hurry and shop around.

I use the other hand fingers to pinch down on the braid line when spooling, as hard as it doesn't burn my fingers. But more or less, the dig-in problem with braid would happen eventually, unless you wind back the line with tight pressure after every cast. The spooling technique is just to make it less serious.

I am mostly the same with others here, 2 on 2 off on the internal brake, and 1~2 on the external brake. This is the setting for the current white color brake shoes. For the old SVS brake shoes - the red ones that are on last gen reels like Chronarch CI4+, Curado I, etc., the brake force is a bit stronger; thus I only turn 1 shoe on internally.

I wonder if the spools are interchangeable?

For better deals on it, you could either wait for Amazon deals, or search the auction site. Last year I got 2 spools for$52.

Yep, pretty much same old wine in new bottles. Except maybe the "Hyper gear," which uses deeper gear teeth with different design. It's new on paper, but in practice, 20 year old Alphas and TDZ reels are just as smooth, and more durable IMO. OK, I'll stop here before I digress.

It also makes sense from a manufacturing cost standpoint - why build a different mold just for SV 70 when you could use the same Alphas'?

I get that, but for marketing purpose, shouldn't they come up with some catchy new terms, instead of keep using the same one over and over and over again, or forcing people to relearn their Physics class?

What's with the nose-up snobby pics of the Maverick reels though? I can't see if there's any resemblance with the new Abu Zenon series reels' frame.

4.5oz... This is crazy. I am interested to know about how the SLC light spool performs though.

Here's what "Hyper Drive" means according to Daiwa: The new SV 70 has "Hyper Drive", which should include a free floating spool and all the above "Hyper" features. I don't think Daiwa would present a dual supported pinion gear without a floating spool like Shimano does. It never happened with Daiwa reels. TW 80 only has "Hyper Drive gearing system," which is the above #1 feature, and it's confirmed to have a spool shaft. For only $30 more, I'd definitely go with the SV 70, or the Alphas SV. They are pretty much the same reel with different paint job. https://daiwa.us/collections/baitcasting-reels/products/tatula-sv70 What I don't get is why Daiwa has so many Tatulas and "Hyper" stuff. It's exhausting.