AmmoGuy

The last 10 days on two different small lakes have been pretty productive. 22”, 23.5”, 22.25”and a 19.75”. Several more in the 15-18” range.

You can see that the shaft is against the rub rail, but it is not clicked into the vertical position. I can add a 1/4” plywood spacer to move the motor outward, but by my measurements it’s still going to lightly hit the rail. I can’t add more than 1/4” because there isn’t room in the mount. I don't understand why they didn't put a plate over the bow "transom" like on the rear. I'll probably make one and add it. It's way too flexible as is.

So I just ran into a pretty big issue on my new Pond Prowler 8. First, the front “transom” is extremely flimsy. Just hand tightening the TM screws I fell like I’m going to break the flexible plastic. But the real issue, is that my Motorguide R3 apparently doesn’t have enough clearance to use on this boat? When attached to the bow or stern, the rub rail on the boat will not allow the TM to go into a vertical position. Big issue. Not real sure what to do at this point.

See, my experience is the exact opposite. When I use EWGs, the hook ripped through the "head" of the senko constantly. Like almost every bite. With twist locks, I may catch 3-4 fish and never have the head rip off or through.

Owner Twistlock Light 4/0. I don't even like fishing weightless senkos on anything else (other than wacky).

With a trolling motor on the front I bet a rear rudder/skeg helps a lot. Have you tried paddling with/without? Is it noticeable there too?

I have a BP Pond Prowler 8 (Sundolphin) that I use to fish a small lake near my house. Motors are not allowed, so I paddle the boat around the lake. However, the thing basically tries to spin in circles when you dig in on one side. Too much energy goes into spinning the boat instead of propelling it forward, and I constantly fight keeping the boat headed in one direction. I've read a lot about rudders in this thread. Would a rudder give a substantial improvement?

The bass were hammering a white buzzbait Sunday night at one of my spots..... But I didn't catch one single fish with the lure buzzing on top of the water. 99% of the fish hit it while it was falling after it hit the water, or within the first 6-8' of retrieve before I got it back up to the surface. The best fish of the evening (about 4.5lb) I caught about 12' from the boat. I was burning the lure back to make another cast, and stopped right before I got it back to the boat to swat a mosquito on my arm. When I started reeling again... WHAM. He hit it like it owed him money. Bass are goofy.

Anyone have a thought on this? I guess it could have been a home brew years ago, but I don't remember putting anything like that together, and all three have matching spinner and buzz blades. The action in the water is pretty intense. The "spoon" on the head creates all kinds of wobble.

Does anyone recognize this? I have a few of them in my box from years ago, and I really cannot remember anything about them. The blades say Assasinator, and each one has a buzz bait blade that can be swapped on.

Nope. Fluoro.

I bought that rod a few weeks ago. It'll skip jigs all day. I use it as a pitching rod too. It's not a broomstick, but it's got plenty of backbone. A 1/4oz Trig with a 5/0 hook would be fine on it, but it's a little more rod than I like for that. The 7'3" MH/F would be my go-to for that setup. Love the tip on that rod.

As far as I know, the 100 drive shaft doesn’t have the 0-rings under the drive gear and ratchet, and they are definitely different part #s. But if we’re talking changing entire lower drive assemblies, I’m sure you can do the same with a Zillion SV/ Tat SV. Like I said earlier, by design, the assembly in those two is extremely similar. The Coastal and 100 have more differences in that portion. Lol. I like how we totally took this guys thread out into left field.

It would be interesting to know exactly what the difference is in the drive gear. If they are truly a more precision gear, that could explain some smoothness. I guess if you changed the drag stack, collar, drive shaft, and main gear they may swap. All of that is a a different design.

Right. As far as Daiwas design, it seems like free float / supported pinion go hand in hand. I’m starting to feel like that’s the ticket.

No. They really don’t though. The chassis , the lower end of the drive assembly, the drag system, the TWS, it’s all exactly the same. Quite literally the only “substantial” mechanical difference is the supported pinion (and accompanying free float spool).

Eh, the drive shaft, drive gear, drag washers, drag collar, etc. are all a different design in the Coastal (when compared to the 100). There are more differences in the lower end drive assembly of a Coastal and a 100 than there are between a Zillion and a CT. Mechanically speaking, the lower portion of the drive is the exact same design in a Tat CT and a Zillion. Obviously, the big difference is the free floated spool (and accompanying supported pinion). I’d wager that accounts for 99% of any added smoothness in a Zillion. The inductor spring in the Coastal is pretty soft, yes. That being said I can cast a 5” weightless Senko as far as I’d want to. Honestly, the Coastal is no more of a Tat 100 than the Zillion is a Tat SV. They share chassis, but both have mechanical differences. (Albeit the free float spool is a big one)

The Coastals have different gears, a different drive shaft, better spool, etc.. than a Tat 100, and an aluminum side plate, and one of mine is still noisy. I say that to say, that the supported pinion is honestly the only thing that REALLY interests me about a Zillion SV.

The Zillion SV is, for all intents and purposes, the Tat SV TW with the free float spool (supported pinion), no? Mechanically speaking, are there other major differences?

Yes, the “2020” SV is based on a different frame, and is matte black. It’s a Tatula 100 with a SV spool (for the most part). That’s why we were discussing the differences earlier. But I don’t know that the CT style (the model you have) is no longer in production? Could have been phased out I guess, but they are still readily available.

Given they are readily available at numerous retailers, they must still be in production.

I think the Tat CT frame palms great (but I have big hands). I’d enjoy my CT a lot of it didn’t feel like it was full of gravel during retrieve. luckily the seller offered a return. Tempting to try one of these SVs in its place.

What didn’t you like about the 2020? Just not a fan of the new 100 chassis?

Previous is basically the Tat CT body, correct?

You like this model over the 2020 SV?