Bankc

Try Gorilla tape. It's the best duct style tape I've tried. Though nothing is going to stick to plastic well in a wet environment, especially in cold temperatures. Even worse so if it's trying to hold something heavy in place (like heavier than the tape itself). Most plastic kayaks are made of HDPE, which has a very low surface energy. So adhesives of any kind won't stick to it well. You can try to rough up the surface, but your best bet is to mount it with hardware, or find a way to plastic weld a solid mount in place.

There are a ton of companies out there with A+ BBB ratings with long histories of scams, lawsuits, and even some with their owners in prison for fraud. BBB ratings don't mean anything anymore, other than that the company is willing to pay money for a membership. I personally know of a few companies that routinely defraud customers and have terrible reputations in their communities that have excellent BBB ratings. There are a lot of news articles published out there that go into detail on stories this. Your best bet these days is forums and FB groups. Not that opinions can't be bought, because they sure can. But you're much more likely to get honest opinions from online communities, especially if you can check in multiple sources. If no one's heard of it, it's probably best to avoid being the Guinea pig. It also helps to look up a "whois" on websites you've never heard of. That will at least tell you how long the website has been around, and perhaps some other information. For instance, fishingtackle-store.com was created on 10-15-2017. So they're about 3 years old. On a personal note, I'd avoid any website that uses a dash in the name. That's usually a bad sign, as it means that they're not able or willing to invest in the same name without the dash, or that they're trying to make their site look like another, more reputable site. Also, the website itself is pretty poorly designed and ugly. That doesn't mean that it is a scam, but it at least means that it's not a website that has invested much money into assuring the general public that their site is safe. But the only sure-fire way to know if it's a scam or not, is to try it. I hope it works out for you. But this is one site that I would avoid, as it currently stands.

When bank fishing in the south, I've often used cactus spikes to pin a bullet weight in place for Carolina rigs. Sometimes, I've also used toothpicks or whittled down twigs. Just whatever I have handy. It allows me to switch between Carolina and Texas rigs and adjust the leader length with ease.

Crappie, walleye, trout. Though I'll eat just about anything you put in front of me. But as far as eating what I catch, that's about it. I'll add catfish to that list if it came from pretty clear water, which is hard to find around here. Otherwise, they tend to taste pretty muddy. Now if we added saltwater fish, the list would go on for miles.

I think a fish's preference can change by the minute. And the environment will have a lot to do with that. I was just offering the theory that perhaps the reason you don't see as many Indiana bladed spinnerbaits is because people tend to think in dualities. Good or evil. Left or right. Right or wrong. High or low. Dry or wet. Big or small., etc. It makes decision making easier, even if it's over simplifying the situation and leading to poorer decisions. If you want thump, you have Colorado. If you want speed, you have willow. Indiana might be the right choice. But bass gear is largely marketed around the idea of specialization, and Indiana blades don't feel quite as specialized. It's a purely psychological thing.

Indiana is kind of the middle ground. I think most bass anglers think more causally. So either you choose a Colorado because you want the thump, or you choose the willow because you want the speed. Having a third option that straddles the other two feels a bit indecisive. I'm not saying that it isn't a good idea, or that there's anything wrong with an Indiana blade. It just FEELS more like a compromise. That's my theory.

I don't think I've changed much. Sure, I've learned more, and adapted that to my fishing. I'm definitely a better angler now, and much more versatile. But I've always had the same approach, which was the approach my grandfather taught me, and his father taught him (who also was around to learn me a few things). And that was to pay attention to your surroundings, think like a fish, and experiment to find what works. So I wouldn't call it a change, so much as a growth. I haven't really stopped doing anything I did back then, but rather added more stuff to try and more ways to think.

This summer I was tossing a buzzbait and my hand slipped off the reel. The buzzbait dipped below the water, and when I went to pull it back up, I had a fish on it! So I tried that a few more times, and it worked again! I did pretty well that morning, and every bite came on that buzzbait, right when I paused it. Since then, I will often try to pause the buzzbait near cover if a steady retrieve isn't working. Usually for only a half second pause. Just long enough for it to disappear below the surface.

Bladed jigs. Regular jigs and spinnerbaits will land fish all day for me. So you think these would at least be okay. Maybe it's just initial bad luck which morphed into a self fulfilling prophecy, but I've never even got a bite on one.

I've got a Kast King Perigee II. It's not a bad rod. Good guides, reel seat, grips, and well made. The two tips is nice, though how often are you really going to want to swap out tips? My only real complaints are weight and sensitivity. Not that it's heavy or particularly insensitive. It's just that I've got other 2 piece rods that are lighter and more sensitive. Though, they did cost twice the price of the Perigee II, so you'd expect something for the extra money. I've never fished an Arid-X, so I can't compare the two. But I do have a Berkley Lightning rod, and can say that the Perigee is a better made rod than the Lightning (especially the guides and reels seats). I can't really compare weight and sensitivity to the Perigee, however, as they're different speeds, lengths, and powers. If you could find one on sale, the BPS PQ2 rod comes in a 2 piece, and it's one of the better 2 piece rods I've fished. It's a bit over your budget, but on sale, it might come close.

I can't say that I've used it for soft plastics, but I've used one to repair the bill on crankbaits. I've also used one to do all kinds of things to my kayak and pretty much anything else that's broken and made of plastic. I use a 30 watt soldering iron, so it doesn't get too hot. I also don't use the same soldering iron that I use for electronics (which is a variable temperature unit) because you'll ruin your tip melting plastic. In the same vein, I've also use chemicals to melt pieces of plastic together. Acetone, MEK, etc. Sometimes it helps to take a bit of plastic, melt it in a jar of the solvent, until you get a gummy solution. Then use that as a glue to hold the plastic together. As the solvent dries, it just turn back into normal plastic. It's the same way that PVC is glued together. You take a primer, which is just the solvent, and use it to soften up the PVC. Then you apply the welder, which is the solvent, plus some pre-dissovled PVC in it, to weld the two pieces of pipe together. Part of the key is knowing what kind of plastic you're trying to join together and using the same type of plastic in the glue solution. Not all plastics are the same or compatible. But, like I said, I haven't ever tried to repair a soft plastic lure. So while I like the theory of all of that, that's all it is to me. Just a theory.

Does it have a demo mode? I'd be more inclined to use that, as that way you won't have to worry about screen burn in or overheating the transducer. It might use less current in demo, but with a DMM you can measure the current it does pull and use that to calculate the battery's capacity.

You can't easily convert 12VDC to 24VDC. You're going to have to convert it from a DC source, into an AC source, and then back into a DC source in order to raise the voltage. All of those conversions are going to eat up a lot of power. That's going to effectively change your 100Ah battery into something more like a 30-40 Ah battery. Beyond that, you're going to have a lot of trouble getting much current draw out of a setup like that. So more than likely, your trolling motor will never really hit top speed, especially if it's a larger trolling motor. The maximum current of a normal battery is limited by the load applied to it and the batteries internal resistance. With this voltage doubler added, that becomes the limiting factor on your max current draw. Beyond all of those issues, you're going to have reliability issues trying to keep all of this added circuitry going in a wet environment without overheating. This is why everyone who's smart just uses two batteries. It's safer and more effective. If you want to save room, then just buy two smaller batteries. Two 30 Ah batteries would work just as well as what he has set up, and since you have two of them now, it would be really easy to find a place to store them.

Try different things. I fish a heavily pressured pond fairly often, and it took me about a year before I caught my first bass there. And I haven't been skunked since. The first trick I learned was to be stealth. They get spooked super easily. So try to find areas or times where you're not near other people. And make sure you're not making big splashes into the water unless your casting way past your target. Also be quiet when you approach the water. Don't let them hear your footsteps as you walk up. The second trick I learned was to throw lures that other people didn't. Give the fish something they haven't seen before, or don't see that often. That means staying away from plastic worms, spinnerbaits, crankbaits, and whatever is currently popular (whopper plopper, bladded jigs, etc.). Try throwing brand new lures that haven't caught on yet, or throwing old lures that people have forgotten about. The third trick is to keep moving. In a pond, it's easy to want to set up in one area and just work it to death. It might look like the only good spot in the pond. But there's a good chance that everyone else thought the same thing, so it gets hit the hardest and now the fish avoid that spot. Then another spot that might not look might much might be the honey hole because everyone passes it up. You never know. So just keep moving.

About a month ago I was in a situation where I would have preferred someone copy me. I was fishing along a bank in a long cove when a bass boat noticed I was landing a bass about once every ten minutes. They came in and started crowding me out, hitting the areas all around me, and then moving in front of me to cover the areas I was heading towards. They were constantly getting hung up and disturbing the water trying to free their lures. It was scaring away the fish, so I'd move over to a different area, and they'd follow. They didn't get a bite the two hours we were both there. I was fishing a KVD 1.5 squarebill and they were flipping jigs. I was targeting the bait fish schools that were running around the area and they were targeting all of the trees and water willows in the area. If they had copied me, they would have caught more fish, because there was plenty to go around, and they would been able to chase their own schools of bait fish without having to crowd me out because there were plenty of schools.

Talk to your insurance company. Usually insurance for stuff like that is pretty cheap. So to me, it's usually worth it. But how cheap, how much coverage you get, and what kind of deductible you're looking at will all factor into the equation. As well as how much discretionary income you have (your ability to cover that loss on your own). And that calculus is going to be different for everyone. If the deductible is too high, then you'll likely only use it in a catastrophic event, so it's probably not that useful to you in reality. If the coverage is too low, then it won't cover you in a catastrophic event. If the premiums are too high, then you'll have been better off with a savings account.

I don't care if people copy me. So long as they don't crowd me out, cut in front of me, like when it's clear I'm working an area along a straight line, or run their big motors next me, churning up the water and scarring away the fish, I'm fine with whatever. As long as it doesn't directly effect me, then I'm not going to be offended. The way I see it, the fish in the lake don't belong to me until after I've caught them.

Heat, UV light, and ozone are what break down plastics when not in use. If it's been kept out of the sun, away from heat, and hasn't been exposed to a lot of moving air (kept in the original box), then it's probably still good. Probably.

I may be wrong here. Bass have red and green cones, from what I've read. So that would give them similar vision to someone with tritanopia, I think. If that's the case, then they would see bright blues (cyans). Greens, however, would show up as greys. That would make sense to me, because I've also read that bass see chartreuse as white, which would go along with the tritanopia theory.

My best guess is because bass can't see blue. That high vis blue will show up as a medium gray to them, making it harder for them to see it. Bass can see neon greens, pinks, and yellows a lot easier (though yellow is probably white to them), so they'll be a bit more prominent in the water to them than blue would be. So this might strike a good balance of something that we can see rather easily, while not being totally obvious to bass. Or it could be for clear waters on bright, bluebird days where you want the line to match the sky above. Or maybe it's for a his and her reel setups to go along with the pink.

I use Dawn and an old toothbrush. I have an ultrasonic cleaner, but I don't mess with it for anything on fishing reels other than bearings. The advantage to an ultrasonic cleaner is it gets inside hard-to-reach places. Once you've disassembled a reel, there's not much that's hard to reach, other than the insides of bearings (and even some of them can easily be taken apart, if you so desire). I do a lot of work on things like clocks and camera shutters. Fishing reels aren't delicate and precise instruments. You don't need to get crazy with cleaning them. They're made to be abused, and the ones that aren't are cheap and made to be thrown away. A Rolex demands you be thorough in your cleaning. A Shimano will cut you a lot of slack. So there's really no need for specialized tools, chemicals, and lubricants unless you're entering into a casting competition, and every fraction of an inch matters. Otherwise, do the best you can with what you have, and that will likely be more than good enough.

I used to be a Shimano fan. They used to make higher quality reels than Daiwa, in my opinion. But then Daiwa cam out with their Magforce Z breaking system, and I just think that's far superior to anything Shimano has. Especially on windy days, which where I live, is everyday. And I feel like Shimano's reels have lost some of that quality edge they once had over Daiwa in the last several years. Maybe not in their flagship models, but at least in the middle tier (Curado Line) on down. Shimano still makes good reels. I'd be more than happy to fish one any day of the week. But when it comes to what you get for your money, I feel like Daiwa has them beat at just about every price point. But if I found a comparable deal on a Shimano to a Daiwa, and I was looking to use it for something that didn't necessitate a top end braking system (like flipping and pitching), then I'd probably get the Shimano. Shimano's are usually a bit more comfortable, which to me isn't a big plus, but it's still a plus.

That's the ticket, right there. You have to have a bit of experience to know what to expect, but once you figure out what your lure feels like running through rocks, wood, and grass, you'll be able to deduce what a bite feels like. If you're unsure, reel down the line to tighten it a bit. If you have a fish on it, you'll feel some movement. If it's just rocks, wood, or grass, you'll just feel your line tightening, but not move. You'll lose some fish that way, because you're not setting the hook fast enough, but you'll get a better feel for what a bite feels like. Then, if it's a bite, you're in a good position to set the hook. And if it's not a bite, then you haven't jerked the line hard enough to lodge the lure into something, making it hard to retrieve. After you've learned what a bite feels like, you can set the hook more aggressively. Also, this is a bad time of year to start bass fishing. The water is getting colder and the bass are starting to go deeper and become more lethargic. Bass are easiest to catch in shallow water. Come the spring and the spawn, they'll be a lot easier to catch. So don't get too frustrated if you don't catch much over the next couple of months. It's a hard time for (almost) everyone. Come spring, your luck should start to change. Outside of white bass, black bass don't tend to school up as much as panfish. So you often have to cover more water and not spend as much time in one spot as you would with panfish. There are days where they will school up and you can catch a bunch in one area, and anytime you catch one, it's a good idea to continue fishing a few more casts looking for others. But don't keep fishing the same area for long periods of time without moving, expecting the bass to come to you if you aren't getting any bites. They tend to hide and ambush their prey rather than patrol the area and chase them down to corner them.

That's an odd problem. I have a Hook2 5 on my kayak and it's always been pretty accurate. Two units with the same problem suggest it might not be an issue with the unit itself. Then again, it could have been a manufacturing defect, and if the two units from the shop came off the line one right after the other, then I suppose it could be an issue with the unit. It might be a problem with the map. What mapping software are you using? You might try a different map if your unit has that feature available. It could be that the map itself just isn't very accurate. If you tried both units at the same lake, especially if it's not a large and popular lake, I could see this being an issue. My Hook2 5 came with three different mapping programs. It has the standard Lowrance, which is pretty useless, in my opinion. It also came with a Navionics map, which is a bit better. But mostly I just stick with the C-Map, as it seems to have the most detail in the lakes I fish. A couple of the smaller ones aren't mapped, so I use the C-Map Social Maps that users upload, if available. Also, there's a software update available for the Hook2's, but I don't know if they address your problem. But I'd start there before taking the unit back. Also, you might check the GPS coordinates that it gives (if it has those. I think it does in the menu, but I can't say for sure). Check those against the ones in your phone's GPS or something that gives you reliable GPS coordinates. If the numbers agree, then it's probably not a GPS issue, but a mapping one. If the numbers are off, then I'd either send it in for repairs, or swap it out with a different model or brand.

Unless you have something specific that you're trying to address with a new reel, you could be just be wasting your money. Some of the more expensive reels will be better built and last longer. Some will have a smoother retrieve. Some might have a stronger or smoother drag. Some might cast lighter lures better. Some might have different brake systems that you may prefer over this one. There are lots of differences to be found with different reels. You might even want a different gear ratio. But the Fuego is a pretty good reel all around, even if it is a budget reel. It has, in my opinion, the best braking system ever put into a baitcasting reel. In all likelihood, a new reel will leave you saying "It does this and that better, but it doesn't do these things as well as the Fuego". So unless there's something specific that you're trying to address, there's a chance that you won't like your new reel as much as the Fuego. Or maybe you'll think it blows the Fuego out of the water. Without a specific goal in mind, you're taking a gamble.