GetFishorDieTryin

I can definitely see a shorter rod for frogs, walking frogs in particular. I like a 7'3 or 7'4 , but a could see a 7 or 7'1 being useful in yak. That shorter rear handle works a little better in tight spaces. I would definitely think a mod fast or slightly longer (7'3,7'4) would help give you a little more power in the hookset when your sitting down. Thats just me though, im sure there are people who use a H mod for frogs.

2/0 G finesse heavy cover hook. I like thats its not super heavy, but is very strong especially for its dia. The keeper may come lose after a lot of use, but its an easy fix

Yeah, its probably the same lineup, they just added 2pc options like the old mojos. Unless there's a serious issue with LTB you won't see a new gen of them for 2 or 3 years at least.

Looks like thats the series that will replace Bass X. Hopefully they don't goof up the blanks like the whole Mojo inshore catastrophe.

Thanks for the post, never seen any this guys vids and they're really good.

x9 is thin, but I think berkely is taking some liberties with the dia they are claiming. Ive only used crystal x9, but the green x5 sure bleeds a ton. Although I dont think its as thin as they claim, its a solid performing line. I use the 20lb on a 9' M power surf rod and it casts and handles great. Coated braids are great, but the performance changes once that coating wears off and that's inevitable. x9 isnt coated so its doesnt change a whole lot after use.

Some days the fish can be a little shy so I wouldn't get too worked about it. First check the hooks and make sure the brush guard is the way you normally fish it.

Its for distance and line control using light baits with FFS. There are other uses, but in the pro fishing context (which heavily influences products for recreational anglers) that what I would guess.

Most heavy power spinners are going to be inshore rods now. I would actually recommend going to casting gear if it for fishing in cover. It may take some time to get used to, but it won't take long and once you get the hang of it, I promise you will be happy. If you spend the money right, 300$ is more than enough to get a quality outfit. SLX is a good choice, but I would go for a Tatula 150 or Tatula SV. You can get a Tatula 150 and pair it up with a 7'4 H F SC Victory, really light awesome combo for anyone. A Tatula SV costs an extra 50$, but is easier to learn and skip with. You could get the Tat SV and find a rod that's a little cheaper than the Victory.

Yeah...I wish the 80 would go on sale, but thats a fairlt new reel, not due for a redesign yet.

I find the button up double caped shirts are more comfortable in extreme heat. They weight virtually nothing, and they have a ton of airflow. Its worth paying a few more $ for higher quality polyester.

Sorry to hear about the 200 walking the plank, that's a tough 1. I only know guy who has a few, but I only run into him at a spot we both fish 1 or maybe 2 times every year. He says the same thing, he likes the 200 more than the 100 and I didn't get too far into it. He had just bought a couple SC elites and an Extreme that he couldn't wait to show me, so the convo swung away from Daiwa. He let me use the extreme for a while, which was cool, I never picked one up much less fished with 1. I think the 200 is essentially a Tatula and the 100 maybe too, but Im pretty sure the 80 is built on Alphas. At USDM retail paying a little more for a coastal is worth it all day, call me shallow but the castal blue looks sharp, also the 100mm is an upgrade IMO. $ wise the Tat80 can be gotten for about 100$, but the coastals are almost always full retail, 250$ and there really isn't a JDM equivalent. Tough call... Thats what I was thinking. I could run 14lb sniper or 15lb Invx and use it to pitch jigs and t rigs around moderate cover. Just seems like a really versatile platform to me.

MLs are great for lighter wire neko/SH and open hook finesse baits, but can really struggle with t rigged baits. You can use lighter wire hooks and baits with less bulk, which helps, but IMO the right M power will do it better. If you can get youre hands on on, check out the 7' M F 1/8-3/4 Tatula. It fishes like a ML, but is little better suited to some of the more power finesse stuff like SHs and wacky rigs. Flukes can be tough for lighter spinning gear. I use heavier wire hooks on unweighted flukes to get the bait down and that makes things harder on a light rod. If I were you, I would stay away from a DC for unweighted plastics. It'll work, but an MGL or SV will do much better, especially for skipping. I'm curious, what M are you throwing now that is struggling with flukes?

Yeah, I think I kind of agree. I like the 100mm handle on the 80 but I don't think its worth 150$ more.

Outstanding, TY sir.

Yeah, I grew up fishing the stream down the street from me, most of it 1.5' with some holes about 2.5'. Those fish are in cover or shade when the water is clean. When its muddy they are basically touching the bank or touching cover right on the bank.

Anyone have a weight on the 7'2 MH F and or 7'2 H XF?

Anyone own any of these? Been looking for a lighter low pro reel to jig fluke and throw twitch baits at schoolie bass. These look good and would work really well for FW bass too. The price is considerably higher compared to a Taula 80 or 100 and I dont know if the slight upgrade in SW resistance is worth the it. TYIA guys.

I like Fury more, but I hate the lack of the foregrip on their spinning rods, so its no for me dog. I would for a Tatula XT over both of them

In really muddy water I use a paddle tail to keep the SB shallow while I slow roll it since 9 of 10 fish are in less that 18" of water.

If you want to get into bigger swim baits start with a 5.8 keitech and go from there. To be honest I dont buy the big bait=big fish theory at all. There are instances where im sure its true, but location and time of year is far more important IMO.

Picassos Am FB jig is really good. The hook is a 2x 3/0 but its closer to a 2/0 IMO and its well stout. The tungsten is high quality and hard so the feedback is great, paint will chip a bit on rock, but just epoxy them if you worry about that.

A fuego or exceler for about 100$ will feel great, but if you want to invest in something thats really light and is a blast to use then upgrade to vanford. 2500 or 3k depending on the style of knob you like and the length or the handle. The spool size is a couple MM difference, not much difference in performance with that guide train.

There is some nuance, but the better knot is whichever one you can tie better. Uni Uni is an easier knot and is plenty strong when tied correctly. The Alberto is stronger for braid to leader and slimmer. While mechanically the Alberto is easy to tie, the cinch determines its effectiveness and too many instructional videos get it wrong. The Alberto needs to evenly and seated firmly (to where the braid takes a slightly darker color) to avoid slipping and have full knot strength. The leader tag should also be trimmed nearly flush to the knot, that reduces the overall size and more importantly makes it impossible for the mainline to snag the tag. It may sound like alot, but if you sit down and take some time to tie it repeatedly you become really fast and efficient with the Alberto fairly quick.

Rozante 63 Sammy 65 Keitech Mono jig with a 3" bubbling shaker 3" ring craw on a 3/32 free rig 1/16 or 3/32 SH w/ 5" bubbling shaker or straight tail of your choice