GetFishorDieTryin

I use a Decoy dream hook, but their lighter wire. Ryugi makes some really nice small hooks in a stout wire. I really like the LT caro, but you can't go wrong with the infini either.

IMO there is reason requiring a metal frame to a composite for FW finesse fishing. The drag pressure shouldn't really exceed a couple lbs and that's not enough to cause any real stem flex. IMO the added sensitivity of the lighter reel makes it an easy choice. Thats a tough one for the rod, but you really can't lose with either.

Don't they still have a close to everything 15% still on BF?

For sure. The whole point of the ned to be really compact and as light as possible. Once you start using wider gaps, longer shanks and heavier wire you're getting away from the point of the ned rig.

Black and occasionally white

After decades of using senkos, I found out only a few years ago why the actions could vary so much when I would flip a senko to rerig. There's actually a designated top and bottom to a Senko. If you rig a senko upside down you get a different action vs right side up. Since Yum doesn't label the dinger on the top like GYCB, I could see the hook slot serving that purpose. Other than the action possibly being a little different, rigging outside the hook slot won't hurt or help IMO.

Right, but technically the avg breakage is 20lb, they just use the strongest examples to find an average. It is closer to a true rating the way the US does it. I don't know the exact way they find the avg, the Daiwa rep didn't get that detailed with us. We were just more interested in the discrepancy of DIA because all of us wanted a line that could help us toss a 1oz deadly dick close to 100yds with a 8-9' blank for open sand Albies.

Other than most Japanese distance reels, the majority of surf spec reels are made with SS on SS. Penn went to all stainless above Battle and ZB, VS and Visser have been SS forever. Honestly Im on the fence about it. It more expensive, heavier for 95% of people, I don't think SS in necessary. Stella uses SS?

All of the water I fish is like this. I like 3/16 for a T rig or F rig. The cylindrical DS style weight doesnt dig in nearly as much and clear easier than a bullet, but can have issues in certain kinds of cover. I rarley peg a bullet weight, because by the time the bait gets separation its almost on the bottom anyway, unless it's a bait with a ton of action.

A swimjig (or chatterbait if cover and weather allows) with a T rig with a different profile and sink rate as the swimjig.

I like a free rig for shallow water over a t rig. Looks a little more natural to me and fishes isolated cover a little more efficiently IMO.

I don't think it's that as for breakage, the JDM lines use a different was to advertise breaking strength, that's where the majority of the dia. discrepancy comes from. While the JDM lines have a stronger strength to dia ratio, the US lines are right behind them. JDM lines will use the example that exhibited the max amount of breaking strength out of all the tests they run to advertise breaking strength. USDM discard the # (dia) system and use a different philosophy for breaking strength, taking the lowest breaking strength and advertising it. Thats why you have 10lb PE 832 breaking at nearly 20lbs and JDM #1 20lb breaking around 15. The actualy dia of PE, depending on the type and how used it is makes a difference, as some braid as rounder some are flatter. PE isn't continuously the same dia either, so it makes things more difficult. As it was explained to me, they take cross section measurements and use that here in the US. I suspect that some companies are using the lowest measurements they get, and I think it varies from company to company. I love x9, but its not as thin as they claim it is. I think JDM has better standard with the dia # system dictating what the line is used more so than breakage strength. The Japanese also put effort into full lines of situational braids, whereas in the US there are options, but not to the JDM extent. Essentially what Im trying to say is, the difference isnt as fast as far as quality goes. Its the way they market their lines. It also helps that they have some of the best QC standards available, but you pay for it. There are great lines available here too, but the dia ratings can be misleading at times.

If she survives, she's lucky, 2 mins way to long especially for a fish that size. Not trying to give you a hard time, but next time hold your breath as soon as you hook into her and don't let it out until she swims away. You will realize 2 mins is an eternity. The longer the fight the longer the recovery to any lactic acid build up, reduce. When reviving a fish, hold onto its tail and wave it in an S pattern. The amount of time I revive the fish depends on the length of the fight and amount of time out the water. If it took a min to get the fish in and weight it, I want to revive it for at least double that amount of time before I even think about letting go, even if the strength in the tail returns.

If its water that is often stained or low viz, I don't think it makes as much a difference, those fish have adapted to it. Fish in a body of water that is usually clear 3' or more viz, muddy water (12" or less) seems to impact them much more. As far cranks go in stained water, I want lower than normal viz or at least clouds and wind, particularly in shallow water. Cleaner water can be a struggle without wind, clouds or both in your favor.

Theyre great, its a Fuego minus a spool bearing (not needed) and a magsealed AR clutch. The older models were outstanding, but the newer models are smoother and lighter. In terms of smoothness, it actually feels better than a brand new Nasci. I don't think there's a better reel for the money. Midway had them for 80$, unbeatable deal if there are any left.

A c rig is good to cover water, particularly deeper water. Just about all the water around me is shallow with a soft bottom, c rigs just aren't efficient. I do use mojo rigs often, which is like a finesse C rig. Ill use a peg or 2 bobber stops on slim tungsten C rig weight 1/8 or 3/16, 1/4 at most, pegged about 12-16" above the hook.(VMC or Vike) You can use bullet weights but I find those particular cylinder dont dig into the bottom and shed any slime or grass easily if they do. I like to use neutrally buoyant or floating baits, I can just let it sit without the bait bogging down on the bottom.

A swim jig would do well. Think of it as more weedless swimbait with a bulkier profile that is extremely snag resistant.

There arent a ton of ML+ rods available at that price range that would do everything really well. You can get a 6'10 ML F muse (1/8-3/8) from TW for 130. Awesome rods, but its not going to fish a 1/2 really well. Honestly if you know MHX's blanks well enough and are comfortable building your own rod, I don't think you can do better than that.

Absolutely. A more aggressive shape like a pagoda nail will hold better, but I use Damiki neko weight and they work fine. You just want to use a hook to make a sort of pilot hole and then insert the weight. Once the weight is on, grab neck and stretch it down, almost over the weight before letting go. That will get the plastic to bite on the keeper a little better. Its important that the keeper and weight is straight, so do your best to line it up right.

Nothing like a good JB bite.

I use an old 7' UL MF Fenwick for winter float and flies when all the still water freezes. Its ridiculously soft, which can be frustrating, but it makes it fun. Braid and the lightest wire hook you can get will help out.

The Tatula has the better blank, guide train and sensitivity. Balance is good with both and weight is similar. I much prefer the Daiwa actions and ergonomics.

I agree on paper its true so long as everything else is constant, but the mechanics of the human body and physics is what dictates the ease of a longer handle. In reality you're only gaining 5mm for a 10mm overall increase and the increase in radius is minimal (5% on a 90 vs 100) compared to the increase in startup speed so long as the speed is a constant. The increase in leverage allows for a faster startup speed on average and negates a slight increase. Sustained retrieval rate will suffer in terms of time, but I'm not debating that. Daiwa, Shimano, Avet and Accurate have spent lots of time and money on this. The Japanese favor shorter handles, yet JDM reels that are designed to pitch and flip use power handles, particularly in higher gear ratio reels to overcome loss of torque in comparison to lower ratio. When it comes to jigging reels where you really have to reel down and crack em, the difference is even greater.

I had family with properties in and around Cocoa Beach as a kid. It was a paradise in the winter, but the summer was a different story. I mean it gets nasty everywhere in August, but FL is a different animal. The one saving grace is after the daily thunderstorms it feels much better outside. Unfortunately, politics is exactly why people are pouring into TX, TN, FL, VA and the Carolinas. It wont end unless state government takes a hard look at what outrageous taxes and cost of living is doing to their respective states.

Ive been souring on SC for the past few years after being a fanboy for over 20. I heard they were going to stop lifetime warranties a few years ago, but I was just hoping it was a rumor. I mean 15yrs is practically all you need, but a company a lifetime warranty is a sign of confidence in the gear and that definitely makes me feel at ease. I wish them the best, but there aren't many lines the make that dont have an equivalent that cost considerably less.