GetFishorDieTryin

DCs are good for chucking heavier baits that have decent wind resistance, a good distance. If you need to go with a 150 DC at that price point just go for the SLX. Its virtually the same reel, just at cheaper PP. Really I think an MGL spool is more versatile, the curado 150 MGL is probably one of the best deals going.

Snakeheads are popular around here. They are mostly in tidal marshes and creek along the del river. A lot of guys use topwater, like walking frogs, they can get through the thick tidal vegetation and you can cover lots of water with them. A stout MH or H is the way to go, IMO.

Yeah, I dont know if I intend to fish it around cover, but I prefer a tip that had just enough glass to cast a bait without being too soft. I throw lots of 1/20 and 1/16 heads with 2.5 or 3" swimbaits. So as long as the rod can cast one of them about 50 feet, I would be more than happy with it.

I was looking at them at noticed they were rated slightly heavier than other BFS rods in terms of weight range. I haven't taken the dive into BFS yet, but if I did the phenix or dobyns would likely be my first.

I know, I don't think you're spreading misinfo and that wasn't I didn't intend to portray that sentiment. If I did I apologize. I was just wanted to add the factor of delayed mortality into the equation. I feel like its overlooked often and it shouldn't be. Not much you can do for a bleeding fish other than get it back into the water ASAP. On the other hand, we can do alot to minimize the time the fish spends out of water by being more efficient with pictures and ensuring the fish is properly revived, but the reality is some people just don't. We need to put the fish first, if we want to the sport to stick around.

How do you like that rod?

Sorry I assumed when you said "do well" it meant survived...😎

Thats not necessarily true. Just because the fish swims away doesn't mean she's in the clear. Delayed mortality % is surprisingly high, especially with bigger fish in warm water. Believe it or not 2 dozen pics for the gram after the fish has fought her guts out is often the difference between living and dying.

It depends what you want to put it on. X9 is good for the price, it casts and handles really well. Its not as durable as 832 or PP, but it handles better than both. 832 is good, but you want to stay at #10 or less as you really notice a decrease in casting distance.

Fuegos are great. I have a bunch of the older 17 LTs. I dont think there is much difference between the older composite and zaionV, its just a typical Daiwa marketing buzzword. I have one that has had the hell beat out of it in sand and salt, it doesn't feel new, but its runs fine. I bought it to be sacrificial, fishing in the surf in summer and fall and FW all winter and early spring. I always liked Shimano over Daiwa, but the LT line beats Shimanos budget reels handily. Penns have gotten much better in terms of line management and smooth operation. I have a spinfisher 45 thats pretty good on a 8-9ft M power surf rod. The ARs have a little more tolerance than japanese reels and theyre heavy, but generally they hold up well.

The whole AL frame vs composite small frame is really overblown IMO, especially in FW. It takes a good amount of pressure for that stem to flex and way more for the frame to flex. If your drag is set right, 2 or 3lbs max, you won't have any issues.

Not at all. No reason to fill a 4k with braid. Fill it with #10 cheap mono and only use the last 100 yds of capacity for the #15 braid.

Daiwa has some stuff out that im syked about, but its mostly SW oriented. Shimano may have a new Vanford out this year or next year. Not sure how much they can improve without the price point changing too much.

the "g"oogan rig.

Yeah they were like cheating late 90s/early 2ks. They would literally catch every bass in a pond. Sammies are junk ill give you a couple $ to take them off your hands...

I asked a Daiwa rep the same thing. Officially he said they don't recommend using the 2500 and 3k spools interchangeably because there is a slight difference in diameter, but they fit fine. The most common issue, if any, will be a change in line lay and stacking. The worst that can happen is gapping.

It depends on the weight/balance, guide train and use of the rod. MH is probably the power with the biggest margin in actual power and weight. There are MHs that are pretty much M powers and then you have MHs that are rated for well over 1oz. It all depends on the particular rod you like. Guides are optimized for a certain size spool and line. Most FW bass rods are designed for 2500/3k reels using braid or light FC. So long as the outfit will balance with a 3k and you're using braid I dont see the need to upsize. If you want a slightly longer cast or are using FC I can see where the 4k would help. Keep in mind a 4k will hold a considerably more which adds weight as well.

wdym by floating JBs like an old school balsa or the typical slow float sp?

I get a lot of MH use inshore but not so much for FW anymore. They can be really good for soft plastics that are bit heavy or thick to punch through for a M power, like 5" senkos or flipping tubes.

Not much difference in a 2500 vs 3k. The spool dia is larger in a 3k, but by a couple mm only. The handle will generally be longer on a 3k which changes the feel on retrieve. Weight is about the same given the reels are the same model. Really balance, gear ratio and line will determine what rod they go on. Given all things are the same balance is the most important aspect to me.

Anything over 3/16 a M XF works a little better than a ML IMO.

I really like Riots minima jig which is now tungsten and tungsten FB jigs. I do feel like the tungsten lends itself better to a football jig, but I do like the smaller profile for flipping jigs at times. I try to only buy them when them when they are on sale and limit to buying 1 or 2 to replace losses when the price is full retail. Before going all in and buying a bunch, I would recommend getting 1 or 2 and seeing if tungsten is worth it to you, before investing in dozens of them.

Ive done really well throwing superlight micro plastics under a float.

The only watermelon red I really like is reins, because its a darker watermelon with a higher opacity, other than that, partial to watermelon seed or dark watermelon, but I would bet that most of the fish that will hit GP will likely hit watermelon red. Generally if I want fleck, its blue, purple, candy or magic, but I think that's a case of me being attracted to them more so than the fish. I haven't done any extensive testing comparisons when it comes to red fleck vs other colors, I just use what works initially and build off that. Regardless of my preferences, watermelon red is an undisputed top color. There isn't a serious brand on the market that doesn't offer it.

If I had 1 bait to fish in the rain it would be a spinnerbait. Generaly it positions fish shallow and tight to the banks or cover on the bank. You can fish them fast, slow, on the surface or near the bottom and theyre resistant to snags.