GetFishorDieTryin

I prefer a straight shank with an Oshaughnessey bend for worms and such, but some baits can be too big for that style bend IMO. For thicker baits I like an EWG hook. I catch fish with screw lock SHs, but I really prefer heads without a screw lock, just my preference. Ive found I have a better hook up rate when I use the lightest head possible. I find myself going back to VMCs finesse Rugby head often, because it works well with bigger baits and I have tons of them. For 6" to 8" finesse worms, my favorite overall has to be Gamis Tricky head. For shorter worm like 4.5", I like Bite me Tackles shakey head, Davis baits and picassos takedown head. All of those heads come with or offer a hook with a short shank that isnt too long for the shorter worm.

I think the issue is that at its PP, whats it going to do that the curado mgl cant do for the extra 100$? The best they can hope for is another SLX MGL vs Curado 70 situation. They would have to add 1 or technologies to it for it to be worth it. I would guess Chronarch MGL just doesnt sell much anymore, in comparison to other reels. I would imagine Shimano would be on top of it. if they thought the market was there.

Not too many baits like a JB, especially if you like to fish in the winter. A good JB rod doesn't over work the bait, is casts well and is should be comfortable to fish all day. Personally I favor the F-XF style M power rods. A crisp tip helps you, especially if you're fishing a JB or twitch bait for long periods of time. You dont have to work the bait as hard with a faster tip. So long the hooks are very sharp, I dont lose many fish at all. You dont have to spend a ton of money, but a light rod really helps out. A bunch of good ones out there. I like SC, and Shimano, but I found 13s shorter M powers to be great for JBs and topwaters and they go on sale all the time. I found most JB rods fish 2/8-1/2 SBs pretty well.

GYCB 5 3/4" kut tail GYCB SW series swimbait in both sizes Reins Bluegill color GB El Jeffe color Excalibur Xr 50 one knocker Original ( w/doughnut weights) Sebile Soft Magic Swimmers in Bluegill 130 and 160mm

I stand corrected as far being around as long as YT has, but they were on before fishing on YT was popular. In 2008 YT wasn't what is it today or what it as 10 years ago. Most of the popular videos at the time were memes and goofy vids. They're an OG of the fishing YT community IMO.

The problem is TB has done videos consistently as long as YT had existed, they are like the Simpsons of the YT fishing community, if you can think of it, they likely have a already covered it. If someone has had success or does something the same way they do, it doesn't necessarily mean they're just parroting them. The reality of YT fishing, along with tourney guys who do YT, means topics will often overlap, especially if they are new or popular. When the neko rig became popular everyone had a video on it, same thing with the Tokyo rig. I don't watch much YT fishing vids anymore, but IM sure some guys are ripping them off purposely. TB is really consistent with their vids, so its not that hard to tell when someone is purposely ripping them off. Of course you can rig any plastic any way you want. You can also put mustard on anything, might not taste good, but you can do it. Some baits have just performed really well for me, where other baits have not. Of course, I can only relate my personal experiences.

The water around me is very shallow and I dont use super high speed reels, but I have had success doin it. If I had FFS, I could do much better, locating and figuring out if the fish are willing to eat is the toughest part for me. Finding the right bait is important. It should either suspend or have a very slow rise or sink when the water is very cold. If the bait just stops instantly and sits in front of the fish, I do much better than having a bait that rises too fast. Its strange because it's a reaction bite, they crush that bait, but if it doesn't stop right away or floats they just swipe at it or don't hit it at all. Braid or a low stretch FC works the best for me. The bait stops quicker with braid, with FC you almost have to bow to the bait and stop cranking at the same time to get it stop quickly. I cant really use super deep diving bait here, as deep water is anything over 5' here. Ive found loaded shad raps and suspending traps to work very well. There are other shad style cranks that will work, but most of the water I fish is a little too shallow. I got permission to fish a rock quarry that has been off limits to me for almost a decade. I'm going to try out burning a crank in there this winter with some of my deeper diving baits, hopefully it works out.

Bass Geek should have a bigger following, guy is in depth and actually fishes on his channel instead of just pushing certain baits. Brush hog Jr and Paca Craws work reall well too. The first nice bass i ever caught on a neko was on a Brush hog. Same deal, dip the tails and use a light weight.

I started doing it, not to add action, but to keep the bait from dragging the bottom when fishing very shallow.

The topwater bite starts and ends before you think it should. Late Oct early November is one of the most consistent times to fish topwater. I like buzzbaits and pencils over frogs in open water because of the hookup ratio, but in slop or cover a frog or toad is the way to go. I like those stanley ribbit frogs, they hold up really well to pickerel and the head has enough mass to hold a cps or corkscrew without blowing out.

Yeah, functionally I dont think there is a difference between them and alconite inserts. I do think fazlite is slightly heavier than alconite, but admittedly it could be a subconscious bias or just simply the balance of the rods. As for the SS k frames, I cant tell the either. They replaced the Ti Sic K frames on the Avid Inshore with the CC SS Ks, which is a real shame for SC. They did a good job balancing the new blanks with the heavier SS eyes. I expect the CC SS to eventually corrode, but Ive got less than a full season on the only rod that has them.

I tried buying into all the studies, but ultimately I think it's impossible to say for sure how bass see and react to colors. I think there is bias, especially when it comes to certain colors. If everyone is throwing red in March, lots of fish will taken on red. I have lots of confidence in blue, particularly blue fleck, and colors with a little blue in them, like magic and molting craw. I've seen certain colors consistently smash others that according to a few studys appear identical to the fish. Right at the end of the prespawn that pearltruese base color, like LCs crack or some Tablerock patterns out fish white and pearl consistently.

Pretty much all the mas produced spinning rods today use guides that are designed to work best with braid. At that price youre not going to get a big selection of guides. The vast majority are going to be concept, fazlite ks, or another smaller company's equivalent. I think Phenix actually offers SIC, inserts on SS frames at that price point, but I've no experience with Essex guides, so I can't comment on them. So long as you trim the tag on the connection knot, you won't have any serious issues. If I were you, I would choose rods by the feel, balance and blank quality since most the guides are very similar at that price point.

I catch a lot of fish in SW with soft JBs, but I struggle in FW with them at times. I have more confidence in a floating worm. I do well with hard JBs. I feel like I have more ability to match the mood of the fish with a hard JB because they have so many variables.

Early fall, like right around now, topwater is really good. Pencils and smaller buzzbaits put up great numbers. During the same time a shallow squarebill can be good too. Once the water cools, closer to thanksgiving I do really well with JBs, which is my favorite way to fish. Closer to end of fall, I like to start using football jigs.

I don't mind some stretch. In fact statistically, I have a noticably better landing rate with mono vs other lines when it comes to moving baits. Having said that I really dislike mono for certain baits because of the stretch. I use a lot of M power casting rods with slower reels. Any bait where I have to punch through plastic or reel up slack, like a senko, I strongly dislike mono for, especially with a M F or MH MF. Mono and FC both stretch, but they have a different way of doing it. Mono seems more elastic and will readily stretch under moderate load, where FC needs more pressure relative to its lb test to really stretch. The problem with FC, at least the FC I use, stretching seems like it can really weaken it, where it doesn't seem to affect mono.

Owner finesse ball works. There might be better options, but since I already had them for something else, I figured try them.

Ive run into more than a few guys in the wal mart fishing section that SWEAR by wd40 as an attractant. Personally I'm very skeptical and not only that its something that should be purposely be put into the water.

Checking the knot after every fish is a good practice, especially with JB as they're not cheap and tuning can be time consuming. With light FC, I find that a uni or improved clinch is fine. Its not like you're locking the drag down to pull fish out of heavy cover. Never used Tatsu, but I imagine it being a flagship product it knots as well or better than InvizX, which has performed really well for me. If you really want a strong knot that's easy to tie and good with FC check out the SDJ. If im concerned about the knot strength thats what I go with over uni or IC.

If its just 1 or 2 guides, its a no brainer to me. When you replace the entire guide train, then it gets a little pricey. Really it comes down to how much you like the rod and how much use its going to see. No point in putting Ti K frames on a rod you won't use very much.

If you have wind like that, it usually causes those fish to stack up and a JB can get that whole school fired up. You just have to know your limits safety wise and be prepared to make the right decision if conditions get dangerous. I like a 110 or JB with similar action most of the time. When it's blowing that hard, I like a bait that's not as subtle, with more profile/weight and more aggressive action/rattles. The Duo 120sp works really well in those conditions. I like bolder colors when it's that windy, especially with cloud cover too. They don't get bit as consistent day in day out as more natural colors, but in that nasty weather they put up serious numbers. Mat Tiger, Tequila halo, chart gill halo, optishad have all done really well for me.

You want to trim all of the tag to avoid blow by knots. Nail clippers are the best I've found to get a flush trim without damaging anything else. You can learn an FG and they're not hard to tie skill wise, but they take more time and concentration. I can't tie an FG in the dark or in the surf and keep my eye on the waves at the same time, that's why my go to is an Alberto.

I rarely use FC over 17lb, mostly 12 and 15 for FW bass. The 100 has plenty of cap for me.

After the hook, line is the next essential item. Poor line can ruin even the best of blitzes.

It depends on the hook itself. A higher quality hook will generally resist damage from corrosion longer than a hook that isnt plated, the dia of the hook matters too. Water in the box can turn into mess very fast if there's no ventilation. I'm very careful not to put anything away wet, just a little condensation is enough to at least make a mess. As I said earlier, plated hooks are fairly resistant in terms of integrity. Keep in mind that corrosion doesn't just hurt the hooks strength, its really hard on the point of the of the hook.