GetFishorDieTryin

Yeah, the hookup is the only place i know that ever carries them. They must have gotten more in, because they didnt have any midnight black or Ivory Halo a couple months ago. Sucks all the duo products went up 3$, thats a big difference when youre buying a half dozen of them. I bought one of the new Realis USA Raz JBs. It doesnt seem bad for 10$ but the quality isnt like the other 1s IMO. When the water thaws ill see how it runs.

I have some of the smaller ones, 85s and 100s. Thinking about grabbing a 110 or 130 for stripers but I don't think they're through wired and the occasional big blue will do some damage. They would do fine for smaller bass, but the I have my doubts about them with 20lb+ bass in heavy water. I know they used to make 65s and they would be blast on light tackle, but they aren't easy to find.

I really like the duo pencils. Whats ur fav size?

Just the price of jig heads has gone up to crazy levels. A decent jighead for crappie is running more than 1$ now. With the proliferation of FFS, strolling a finesse plastic in front of spotlighted fish has become the norm and the demand just drives the $ even more. Really the prices started to go up as soon as ned rigging really caught on and its never stopped. I can see paying decent $ for a skirted jig. You need a solid hook with good paint or finish, premium skirting with flashibou or tinsel is ideal and well installed effective brushguard. With typing cost it all adds up. Ill replace a few jigs for 6$ if I need too, but the bulk will be bought when they are discounted. Some good jigs around for good price still. Molix has some great jigs for 4$, everything is high quality on them.

The first 10ft of line often takes the most damage. It makes no sense to run heavy line throught the entire spool when you don't need it. Furthermore, braid is very strong. Most people dont realize how much pressure it takes to break uncompromised 10 or 15lb braid. 5lb may not seem like much, but the difference in casting and handling is very noticeable.

Ive been using the #6 1x round bend gamis on shad raps for years and they aren't much, if any better than the 110 jr hooks. Ive got more 110 jrs than standards and ive never had a burr or dull point ever. The hooks keep their point really well. Any 1x hook is going to bend or gets stressed under heavy load. The softer hooks will flex where the harder hook like g finesse wont, but instead of bending that harder metal breaks. The only issues ive had with the split rings is corrosion after using them in SW. Thats when I swap them out. I have a harder time with balancing Duo JBs. I have more issues balancing rozantes than 110s. Sometimes theyre a real pita.

You could go down to a 70 if you wanted too without any issues. I prefer throwing cranks to 5/8 on a 100 MGL or smaller spool. I use a 7'1 Med power F action for most of my shallow cranks. Once you get over 7' with a med power, it doesn't take much pressure to get a bend in the rod, but you still get that fast recovery, which I really like for deflections.

I dont know that we will see 1. Im not so sure where it would fit price point and purpose wise. I think curado mgl just about matches chronarch mgl and chron Gs weight is actually as heavy as an AL framed reel now. The curado 150 MGL is like a budget chron mgl. Maybe shimano upgrades curado to a 1pc body and throws some other tech in and calls it a chronarch. Tranx looks great. The only downside I can see to that is the height of the reel with that frame.

They have an Oshaughnessy bend like the g finesse hooks and the points face slightly in I had thought the 110jr used gami or owner 1x 8s. Ive had them bend a little on carp close to 10lbs using casting gear, but I was just horsing the fish in. Had it been a bass, I would have played her slowly to ensure the hooks don't tear out. Using a hook that is heavier or larger will displace more water and change the action of the bait. When you put all inline singles on a JB or any minnow bait, the action tightens, I suppose because of less resistance. Its all preference I guess.

Shad colors will work. Most lakes around here are here lack shad and I dont fish without shad colors. Crappie, white perch, shiners are prey too.

I found the Ichikawa Kamakiri light wire in #8 to weigh the same as the stock trebles, according to my scale anyway. Im a fan of the bend of the hook. I find they stick em as well or better than round bends.

Depends what you mean by cold. Since youre in TX im going to think about 40-50. They been around forever and casts like a cracker, but the shallow shad rap still whacks em. That bill fishes through wood and cover well. This one is unique and expensive, but I do well with them. PH customs sub/flat P. They are a flat crank with an aggressive action. You can burn and bounce it into cover without it blowing out or snagging like most other flatsides. Theyre small and weight 1/2oz (i think) which I guess is why they casts so well for a flat balsa bait. This is the first aggressive crankbait I use in late winter and it serves as a good changeup to squarebills all year. The sub dives to about 16" and flat p get a little deeper than 5' IME.

The older SC 1/8-1/2 MLs were a little stouter and would do a better job at what you're looking for. The inshore ML models still have a little more power to them, which might be worth looking into. The newer M XFs would probably work really well too, especially if you're using 1/10 heads. I would highly recommend that you go with a Victory 6'8 M XF over any premier. In hand the Victory is so much lighter, better balanced, sharper action and much more sensitive, worth the extra money for sure. IMO there are companies that make a much better budget rod than SC now. @ 150$ the Daiwa Tatula outperforms SCs well above its price point, with the only exception being the lighter weight of a Victory. The M F Tatula blanks fish just like the older SC MLs blanks except they are better balanced, slightly lighter and I find the grips much more comfortable. They offer M powers in 2" increments from 6'6 to 7', so you can get exactly the length you want. The other option would be an Orochi whipsnake. They're on sale for 200$ until tomorrow and are exactly what you're looking for.

Ive seen the spinning reels fail a few times. Head the casting reels were actually good. Some of their rods are great. The Muse Blacks were awesome, the M powers remind me of a SC Avid, but just much lighter with more eyes. Ive only tried the soft baits and really liked what I did get. The quality was good and they weren't outrageously expensive. The bubble butt and invader were probably my favorite. I heard that 1 or 2 of the swimbaits were really good for the money but never tried them either. They put some serious time into developing those products, I cant imagine why they gave up on ALL of them so soon. I'm sure Rapala wasn't too keen on having them compete with their own baits. I doubt we'll see too much of anything from them bait wise, other than ice fishing baits. I think crush city will represent them in the soft plastic department from now on.

If you're really into chatterbaits then a purpose built rod may be worth looking into. Its not like it would only be good for a chatterbait. Im not crazy about glass or softer tipped rods when fishing a chatterbait aggressively. I like a 7'3 or 7'4 F rated from 1/4 or 5/16-1oz. could be MH or heavy or H depends on the company. I dont have issues keeping them pinned with a F graphite rod and InvizX. I tried a couple MH/MF that didnt have enough power in the mid section IMO.

For everyone I hook in the side I catch 4 or 5 in the mouth, but pickerel are different story. You can try swapping out the rear treble for a single replacement hook. Way less likely to snag the fish or find any eye or gill rake. I swap out trebles on baits whenever I can, but with JBs the hooks do all the work, especially in the winter. Since I rarely harm fish with them I don't swap the trebles out.

The Duo JB family is diverse. The 100sp is kind of like a pointer 100, round with lots of flash and roll. Unlike the rest of the bigger JBs the 100sp lacks a weight transfer system, but still casts very well. The 110sp is a little flatter, which makes gives it a little sharper action. Its the least stable of all tehe Duo JBs ive fished. If you work it too hard, it will blow out or hang the line. the 120sp is a slightly longer flatter version of the 110. The flat sides give it more of a side to action. Its more stable than the 110. I have no experience with the 130sp, but I'm told its just a larger version of the 120sp. All of the bigger JBs other than the new Raz which ill be trying soon, and the 85sp have a heavier, more aggressive action than a MB. They work well in combination with visions 110s, as if one doesnt work the other likely will. I've been a huge fab of Duo for some time, everything they make is quality. They are the only stock hooks that are in the same neighborhood of sharpness and quality of G finesse, Owner, Ryugi and so on. While the finishes don't have the complexity of MB or variety of LC, they're very good. Prism Gill, River Bait, Ghost Gill. Optishad, Morning Dawn, just so many good ones. They used to be the best deal going for about 14$, but like everything they recently took a price jump going to 17$, which is a big difference when you're buying a half dozen at a time.

My top 2 are so close its hard to choose 1 over the other. Super Chunk Jr and Yamamoto double tail. Jackall Chunk Craw Reins Ring craw

All the water around here is shallow, but the big difference is whether its weedy lake or slimy bottomed lake. You can rip traps and chatterbaits in moderate weeds, but lakes that have lots of slime or slimy bottoms really limit your choices unless you want to spend all day cleaning your bait. Swim jigs and texas/free rigs are a good 1 2 punch in lakes that are really choked up. You can use the swimjig to cover open stretches and pitch the T/F rig around key targets. Using the lightest weight you can, limits the it from digging into the bottom. Its also a good habit to have a weightless senko or fluke ready to go. If you miss a hit or have a follow that wont commit to the swim jig you can throw the senko or fluke and most of the time that fish will hit it.

You fill them with foam?

Its a mirrolure 1000%, gen 3 52MR sinking twitchbait It could be a 51MR, which is a slower sinking version, but many more 52s around. Nah, theyre sock. They started putting red trebles on certain catch 2ks and other baits with that finish. You have to use a flathead to swap the hook out, kinds a pain in the neck and gives the fish leverage. That lure is responsible for more blind sea trout than anything else i can think of. ML started selling single hook kits for them.

The past year has been rough with health issues. Time on the water was very limited, but the appreciation for it was and is limitless. Duo Nitro lipless in Hypnotic Molix Muscle Ant Willow in boogaloo dace Both baits performed better than I had expected.

They used to be 6$ per pack and you get 15 per (3"), which is a better deal then keitech, especially since the plastic lasts much longer. Big fan of the swammer, my favorite full size swim jig trailer. The action is different, the swammer thumps with heavy roll, which is why I love it on a swim jig and the rockvibe has more subtle kick, but has some body roll. If you dont use mend it, I would really suggest trying it out, it gets a lot more fish per bait. The AE rockvibe clones look like they came from the same mold. The tail looks to be a little more conventional, but the body is spot on. Rock Shiners is what they are calling them.

Funny you say that. I love the Reins rock vibes. That shape makes them ideal for slow strolling in cold water. The problem is they're hard to get here. I got an ad from AE, that is identical to the rockvibe. Obviously, the plastic won't have the scent or high quality reins does, but I they could work. I might just give em a shot now. I guess keitech designed their first swim bait, the swing impact off that design. Keitech just released their version of the rockvibe for usdm. The colors are mostly ghost/smoke, very subtle and I need a pearl or at least pro blue pearl in some of the lakes around here.

For me, it depends how cold it is and what I'm doing. If I can get away with it, which 9 of 10 times I can, I wear insulated fingerless gloves. When I fish casting gear, I really want at least my thumbs and index fingers. If I can get away with it, I wear PVC or polyester glove with a neoprene palm. They're thin, comfortable and easy to clean. If they aren't warm enough, I go with wool fingerless gloves. You need to be careful not to get them too wet. Wool will still insulate when it's wet, buts not as warm or comfortable. Synthetic half finger https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Simms_Windstopper_Half_Finger_Glove/descpage-SWHG.html Wool half finger https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Fish_Monkey_Wooly_Half_Fingered_Gloves/descpage-FMWHFG.html When it's really cold, 20s or lower, I'll wear glomits. They're a pain, because you have to take them off to get into a pocket, but they keep your hands very warm. Glomits https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Simms_Windstopper_Foldover_Mitt/descpage-WSF.html If you absolutely need 100% waterproof gloves, neoprenes are probably the way to go. They aren't as warm as wool, but keep your entire hands dry, so long as you don't have holes in them. I don't mind neoprenes for duck hunting, but they make it really tough to feel line or cast. I use them when it's frigid, surf fishing in late fall, but that's about it. Neoprenes https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Fish_Monkey_The_Blocker_Neoprene_Fishing_Glove/descpage-FMTB.html Wether you're in a boat or on the bank, you should carry a few different pairs with you. If one pair gets wet, or isn't warm enough you can swap them out.