GetFishorDieTryin

Flyrods are more fun and there a few situations where flies will catch fish when nothing else will, not so much for bass IME. When weakfish and fluke are on grass shrimp or tiny silversides, it's almost impossible to present something that small in current as stealthily and efficiently as a flyrod can. The downside is that it's a lot of work and a spot can be blown out by a couple googans being themselves. The technique is something you have to learn as well and it takes time. I used to fly fish everyday as a kid at the stream by my house. Its too tight to forward cast, so I got really good at side casting accurately. like anything else you need to do it to keep your skills sharp. I didn't fly fish for a few years and went to the mountains to catch the green drake hatch and I was rusty as hell lol. It really evens out the playing field between the fish and angler. Every fish you land means a whole lot more on a fly than with conventional gear.

The 80 has been at 100$ for months. If I spend another 30$ I can buy 2 80s for 1 alphas, that's how the math works. Theres no reason to pay another 70$ to get it from digi. I guess the guy who was talking up how street prices are the better place setter is now going by JDM retail.

Jerkbaits can be tough to get hang of because they're unique in the way they fish and there are so many variables. That makes it hard to gain confidence in them. Generally wind is your friend with a JB. It can make it difficult to cast, but the benefit is that it can cause the fish stack up or school. When those fish are together, even if they aren't actively feeding a JB is one of the best things to throw at them. Sometimes throwing a JB at a school of inactive fish will fire them up. Its very important the JB stop and start immediately. If you have too much pressure on the line or the wind is throwing a bow into the line, you can catch a few, but you're leaving a lot of fish behind. You need to anchor the boat with the wind at your back in in your face. The depth of the JB really depends on the fish. You want to get the JB as close as possible to them without going under them, as its harder to get fish to go down than come up. IMO FC is probably the best way to go if that outfit is going ot be dedicated for a JB. There are sinking braids around and more will come, but I have no experience with them, so I can't help you there.

Most of the time the TB guys recommendations are legit and the D walker is no exception. Its got good roll, so the swimjig has secondary movement without having to do anything but reel. Another thing I really like about the D walkers are that theyre made from a stiffer plastic and arent loaded with salt. The lack of salt and stiffness makes them extremely durable. The DJ swim jigs are good, and theyre available in almost too many good colors. I prefer Greenfish swim jigs, but that's just personal preference.

I generally always fish a shaky head with the lightest weight I can get away with. In the spring ive found 1/16 to outfish heavier weights by a considerable margin. I catch as many fish letting it pendulum back to me after casting it as I do when its on the bottom. Jig fishing around here is tough in general. The bottoms are mostly soft and covered in the "black death." For the jig bite to really take off the water needs to be clear and it really helps when the wind is hitting a point or cove. That way the fish stack up and they arent as spooky.

I keep the plastic on my new rods too for a little while, lol. The X series rods went on sale not last Xmas but the previous for 180$, If I wasn't stuck in the hospital with a dubious prognosis, I would have bought one. Was hoping to see it go on sale this Xmas, but no such luck, so I settled for an M1, which I actually really like, but it not on the level of an X. They look as good as good as any MB IMO with a hook hanger below the reel seat just how I like them and a lifetime warranty. I'm sure if they marketed them better they would sell because it seems like everyone who has one has nothing but praise for them.

The weights about the same as the 80, but an ounce in the case of the 100 if a big difference. Ive got no experience with Alphas platform at all. I think a buddy of mine has an alpahs air I think, but ive never even held it. Ive gotten my hands on the Tatulas and theyve been around long enough that any problems would have surfaced. So far the feedback is really good or great for every Tatula. For the price of 1 alphas, I could spend 30$ more and get 2 80s. If I was left handed I could buy 2 80s and a vison 110 for the price of 1 alphas. If I was going to spend that much, I would spend the extra 50 and get a zillion. Honestly both reels should drop in street and market value soon, they're 4 and 5 years old, a new gen will be out this year or next.

I used to use #10, #8 blue label and other flagship FC leader material and I can't remember a single bite off. Of course when pickerel are hooked they turn and dig and that's when you bit off if its going to happen. Even if they dont bite you off they can damage #15 enough to require a retie. I went to using standard FC like invizx and red label after a while. Immediately I started getting bit off, so there's a huge difference between an actual leader material and standard FC. I dont recal any bite offs with 15# off the top of my head, but Ive lost quite a a few vision 110s and other expensive baits. Theres definitely a big difference between smaller and bigger pickerel in terms of damage they cause. Once they get to 2lbs they have enough power and resistance in water to cut through lighter line quickly, the smaller ones more or less saw at it as they turn and dig. Keep in mind too that when you increase leader size you can really kill the action of baits if you're finesse fishing, especially if its stiff leader material. If you're actually targeting pickerel it shouldn't matter that much. Isn't that the truth. I cant tell you how many times I've lost my last bait of a certain color or decided to swap out an x rap for a 110 jr the last 20 minutes of the day and immediately i get bit off.

See, that was my point about the 3rd party prices all the reels dont follow the same discount. If I could the same heavy discount the alphas it would be cheaper. The alphas is close 2x the price @185$, I can get an 80 for just over 100$, a 100 for 110$ and the sv 100 for 140$. Ive had all the Tatulas in hand, but not at the same time. TD had the sv70, 80, but not the newer 100 in stock so I couldnt compare them really. BPS had the 100 and sv100. The sv was a lefty model, but as far as I could tell they were the same reel, just different spool and paintjob.

Its like a high shine blue a tinted kinda grey, like the older Tat elite rod, but with a blue hue to it. Not my first choice in color, but its not hideous.

It would probably go on either a 7'1 M and be used for just about everything or a 7'2 MH and be used T/Free rigs, swim jigs, and maybe buzz baits. If it goes on the M it would be #12 Invizx and #15 on the MH. If the SV could match the 100 in distance I would buy the SV 100 for sure, but if Daiwa didnt change anything but the frame on the SVs I dont see it being any better with distance. Does the 80 cast better than the 100?

I understand what you mean, but using the price of 3rd party vendors is all over the place. For example, you can get Slammers on sale at Amazon for 99 or 110$ every now and then. Comparing that to any other reels at the 100$ PP doesn't tell you anything except you got a good deal. The Sugg Retail ideally gives you an expectation of performance, quality and tech relative to other reels that company puts out. Most reels are built or redesigned to fit a predetermined PP that fits its different lines of reels and a PP that is competitive with a rival company's product. For whatever reason Shimano's aren't discounted as steeply as Daiwa's on those 3rd party sites. Those steep discounts arent on every reel. If I could get 30% of a coastal 80 or a JDM equivalent I would grab one real fast, but they're about the same as digitaka or slightly under retail for USDM exclusive reel. Im happy about that because if Tatulas were sugg retail everywhere I would just stick with Shimano. Absolutely, its whole different platform. Not that the older gen was bad per se I just didn't care for the shape. Maybe thats why I was so impressed with the feel of the new 1, since I wasnt crazy about the last gen 100s shape. Other than the metal sideplate and new frame design, Daiwa super hyper marketing buzzwords dont mean a whole lot to me. In a few years they will say the reel boxes are made with tough cardboard technology with super cube edges that are 14% pointier than the last generation of boxes.

Tatulas have been good reels for a long time, but I never liked the way they felt in hand. The way the frame bulged at the front wasnt as comfortable in my hand as most of the Shimano's designs. The new Tats feel great and by all accounts are improved internally and functionally as well. SLX is a solid platform, especially at its PP. Tatula 100 is multiple PPs above the SLX platforms save for the DC, so it should outperform SLX designs in most aspects. The Curado line is probably the closest to the Tatula family as far as multiple frame sizes and spool options go. I'm not as familiar with many of the newer Curados, but as far the 150 MGL and 70 go I think theyre a good product for the $, especially in the case of 150 MGL. The only thing that makes me hesitate to buy a Tatula is that I know a few people with older models that have gotten rough or had issues after a few years. The new 100, 100SV and 80 feels so good in hand, Im going to buy one of the of the 3. I just have to figure out which one to get.

It sounds a lot like how we use unloaded Redfins here on the coast. They dont cast worth a d**n into the wind, but when that bite is on, its got the wow factor of topwater bite, without having to work a pencil or bottleneck.

After getting a Tat 80 in hand I was impressed and liked the feel. Yesterday I got to get my hands on the new Tat 100, and I was just as impressed at how much more palmable the new 100 is than the older gen. That dimple above the T wing doesn't sound great, but in reality, it gave me an effortless, but firm grip on the frame. Now I dont know which one to get. The 80 is considerably lighter, but the 100 is a little more versatile. Both have the same handles and grips (I think) so there's no advantage there. Theres also the SV 100, which looks like it shares the same small frame as the Tatula 100. I could go without the goofy spider. They only had left hand models of the SV so I couldn't get a proper feel. Does anyone have the Tatula 80 and 24 100? Given the choice of 1 reel which one would you take and why? If anyone has all 3 reels, the same question applies? TIA

If I could get away with just casting gear I would, but some things are just more efficient with spinning gear. If it was just a senko rod you wouldnt need a super sensitive blank, but with a DS sensitivity is very important. I would recommend a Tatula 7'2 MH on the low end. You wont beat it for 150$ You would have to spend 200$ or more to get a blank to reach parity or slightly more sensitive. Curado and Zodias are great, but the spinning rods have forward locking nut, which I really dislike and Dobyns is the same way. If you want to go cheaper on the rod 13 has great M power blanks, that handles weightless plastics very well. I picked up one of the new Oaths (100) and was very surprised at how good it felt. The rod they have at the 150$ PP is very good, but IMO the Tatula is better. If you can get a Muse it would rival anything at its PP and nearly 100$ higher, in terms of weight and sensitivity. As for the reel, its very hard to beat Stradic. If you have the funds, a Vanford 3000 would be preferential over Stradic. They are a just a much lighter stradic, same tech and attributes, just with a much lighter composite frame. With a lighter reel, felt sensitivity is increased and they are a blast to fish with. Fishing LMB stem flex won't be an issue, as you won't need more than 6lbs of drag max.

Jersey doesn't really have an ice out. We might get periods where lakes will freeze and most of the time its not strong enough to ice fish so. Generally, it only lasts a week or so, the jet stream rebounds and southern systems thaw it with rain. This year was exceptionally cold, with brief periods of open water between 3 hard freezes. The last winter that was even close to as cold was 2018.

One's a swimbait and the other is a strolling/twitch bait. There s a lot of overlap between the 2, I use both in similar conditions. You tight line the ES in shallower water because that tail gives it more lift. I use the SI with hover rigs, wheel heads and other jigheads that create roll. The SI is just kind of a more subtle bait than the ES. I think the straight tail looks and feels more natural to the fish, but I could be wrong. I do well on both. Im gonna try the Great lakes finesse hover shads out. The quality of them looks great and the way belly is shaped should give the bait great action on the fall.

Used to fish with a buddy who only used a delta red rooster tail. That rooster tail would consistently catch numbers and giants in the spring. He would catch bigger fish then I was and I was using senkos. After April that red color wasn't as effective, it would still do numbers, but the size wasn't there anymore and a senko would consistently catch bigger fish once again. We used to keep an accurate track of the numbers and size on a excel chart. I could write it off as a fluke year if the rooster tail just happened to be great 1 year, but this was over the course of 4 or 5 years, with consistent results. We also found that a gold bait, would produce bigger than average fish around the latter part of April and May. I fish red cranks and traps in the spring and have found that somedays the fish choke them and some days they just slap at them. I've found orange to be effective in the spring as well. My favorite color variation is PH customs Rayburn Flash, red back with an orange belly and fleck incorporated into the paintjob. Of course, if you only throw red or orange or purple you're going to catch fish on it. Its just hard to say if red is the best color in the spring because no 2 days are ever the same.

I really like Arizona Custom Baits. They have good quality injected and open poor baits. TW used to carry some of their stuff, that's how I found them. The prices and quality are great.

The only SLX I have is a DC and its a tank. Its been abused since I bought it, right after it came out, never deep cleaned either.

The position of the wrist with a spinning rod lends itself to better precision control and sensitivity when compared when compared with casting gear. I prefer to fish casting gear when I can, although I think spinning gear is more efficient in this case.

Yeah, tog fishing a jetty from a boat isn't a good idea. People do it, but IMO its not worth it. Those fish are in the rocks tight so you have to stay on the motor the whole time while keeping an eye on the sets of waves, things can go wrong rally fast. You're better off fishing a wreck or bridge pilings.

The scope shade is only 4" and the 5" shad shape is a one and done bait. Both baits have a very short tail for the size. They dont have as much action as a longer tailed bait like a pintail shad or BA strail tail.

I tog fish jettys with 10lb braid. As long as youre careful you should be fine using braid to leader. I think x9 is a superior casting/handling PE compared to 832, but 832 is better with abrasion. In your situation I would go with 10lb 832. Theres a noticeable difference in casting distance when you go up to #15 and if you nick up either 10 or 15 you should retie.