GetFishorDieTryin

Auto bail trip is the most unnecessary, detrimental feature on small reels today. Most good reels over 4k or 5k are manual. VSs' aren't made for smooth operation; they're made to work. If you don't what you're doing and just assume the most expensive reel is going to be the smoothest/lightest, you're going to be disappointed. The lack of free spin is due to heavy sealing IME the biggest issue I had was line management. Most guys used heavy mono with them early, and when everyone switched to PP suddenly people had issues with the much thinner dia not stacking well. The issue was taken care of, but it was a serious problem for a little while. Some of the models used counterweights opposite the pickup. Without the counterweight the rotation will feel out of balance.

DSG had a 7'3 MH Oath and it felt pretty d**n good to me for 100$,> or = Tatula XT IMO, but that was the only model they had. For another 20$ you get a much nicer blank, handle and improved guides, especially if you plan to use braid. Defy Black has been out for a long time; they will be replaced soon and likely go on clearance.

Not much you can do to truly fix, besides a new locking nut, but that's too much for something you can notice without a magnifying glass.

There are reels that are designed to be a pleasure to fish, with smooth operation and light weight. Some of those reels can handle a fair amount of abuse before they lose that buttery feel and or fail. This incorporates most of Shimano and Daiwas designs. Then there are reels that are designed for 1 purpose, and that is to work literally in the surf. Being dropped on rocks, cranked in sand filled water and fighting fish in heavy current. Van Stahl and ZeeBass are legit waterproof reels, designed to work all season in conditions where a Stella or Certate wouldnt last an hour. The compromise is that you don't get the buttery smooth operation and lightweights that you would with most Shimanos and Daiwa. Heavy sealing will tighten up the reel There are reels that kind of bridge the gap between a waterproof reel and a precision reel. The Spinfisher and Slammer are good examples as is Saragosa, but Shimano doesn't make a Gosa in small sizes. These reels aren't waterproof, but they're close. All the ingress points have an effective physical seal. They can take spray, splashes and even withstand short period under water without water getting into the gearbox or past the AR clutch. Penns are also fairly simple and easy to work on by yourself. Parts are readily available at relatively cheap prices. The drawback to a SF or Slammer IMO is the weight. The 2500 SVii and Slammer are in the 12oz range when spooled. An Svii or Slammer wont stack line as well as a worm geared Shimano like Stradic, but line management has improved considerably. I think you would be surprised at what at the amount of abuse some reels will take. Fuego got a little Fuego 2500 I bought in 2018. That little reel has literally caught over 1000 fish up and down the east coast in fresh and salt water. I've accidentally run into stripers over 20lb a few times, have had dozens of 50+ snapper and or cocktail blue days on the beach. Its been dropped on the jetty a couple times, smacked on bridge railings and sprayed with sandy water in the wash, but never completely dunked....yet. That reel still works and sits on a 7'1 ML F Tatula that rarely leaves my Jeep. Granted, it doesnt run like it when it as new. The bail isn't as crisp and the operation isnt as smooth, but it still serviceable. I didn't expect it to last more than 1 or 2 seasons once I started using it on the beach. Obviously, mileage may vary, but I suspect that a Stradic or Saltist Back Bay would do well. Saltist BB is a sleeper in Daiwas lineup. Its essentially BG with much better components and higher end features. It has the super solid metal body of BG, but it has a big AL main gear, which holds up better than the zinc gear in the lower end Daiwas and it has magseal. Saltist Back Bay is one of the smoothest operating reels at its price point, its very close if not, equal to Stradic. If you want to go with a full waterproof reel, Van Stahl offers a budget reel that's about 9 ounces in the VR 50 and can be submerged completely. The sealing isnt as good as the higher quality VSs'. While it can be submerged, I wouldn't recommend cranking it underwater like a VSX. Although it is an entry level reel for VS, it will run 500$ or more, where as the other VSs' are much closer to 1k. The only IPX6 water resistant reels I know of that are made in the size you want are the Penn Slammer and Spinfisher. These reels can handle being sprayed, splashed and dunked in shallow water for very short periods of time. These reels aren't as rugged as a VS, but more rugged than Daiwa/Shimano. They're not as smooth as a Daiwa/Shimano, but with proper care they run a little more free than a VS. While they don't manage line as well as a Japanese designed reel, the line lay issues Penn had in the past are mostly resolved, so long as you don't overfill the spool.

The amount of line on the spool shouldn't bind the reel up like that.

While retrieving speed is a factor, its not the primary aspect as to which reel I use. It comes down to power for me. Using reel that doesn't have enough torque for the bait you're throwing or fish your catching will put a strain on the reel and angler alike. I understand the thinking of using high speed reels for everything with the notion that you can always slow down. Anyone can do it for a little while or when catching fish, but on days when you're struggling to get bit, its much harder to consistently slow down when you're on auto pilot.

Ive used X9 in #8 #10 #15 and #20. Casting performance is significantly better than stiffer braids that soak up water up 832. Ive only used it in the crystal color, which looks nice, until you fish it in dirty water then it stains a bit. X9 isnt a heavily coated PE that relies on a short-lived slick surface for casting performance. Ive had it on a few reels for a couple years and none of them have had to flipped yet, due to a ropey appearance. The biggest gripe I have with X9 are the dia claims. While it's a thin braid, the claimed diameters are wishful thinking. Ive noticed too that X9 isnt the best when it comes to abrasion resistance. Its not going to resist abrasion as well as 832 or PP, but I dont think ive ever broken the line, the knot has always failed before the line. IME with the lower lb tests it works best as finesse braid for open water or moderate cover. The only spools of X5 I bought are a little different. Both are in the bright green color and even after heavy use, it still leaves a light green stain on my fingers. The X5 isnt as round or smooth, but it has a waxy feel, compared to X9 in crystal. It casts pretty well for what it is. If you can get X9 on sale, its a good buy IMO. A buddy of mine got that newer no fade P line, but hes taking his sweet time actually spooling it up and using it. Im either going to try that or YGKs sinking PE next.

IMO a JB and topwater rod are very similar. I think there is more nuance to a JB rod, as far as action and power. You can see how a popper or pencil reacts to every twitch, but you can only feel what the JB is doing. The Premier is a good rod at its original price point, but now they're closer to 200 than 100$ and you're still getting AL oxide guides on their SC 2 blank. There are quite a few rods at a lower price point that will outperform a Premier. It would be more than worth it to spend another 40$ and get a Victory. Victory is so much lighter than Premier and the blank is much better quality. The problem wll be finding a 6' rod. SC does make a 6'3 M XF walleye rod, that would probably be great for JBs and topwater. Spend 200$ and get an Avid Walleye.

I like a tapered cylinder weight. The weight is dispersed, so it doesn't sink into soft bottoms and get covered in grass or slime like a ball or tear drop and if they do get grassy, they shed it easily. Ringed weights are far superior to clips IMO. You have to tie a knot, but it takes 10 seconds to tie a quick clinch or uni. Clips weaken line and they don't hold as secure as a knot. If a fish decides to start tail walking say goodbye to that clipped on weight. A solid ring also means you can use it a free weight. Like anything else, I want to use the lightest weight I possibly can. I use lighter weights but the vast majority of time I use 1/8, occasionally I have to go to 3/16 and very rarely do I have to go to 1/4. If I didn't have bills to pay, I would only use Reins. The tungsten and swivels are top quality, which helps minimize line twists. I use a lot of swagger tungsten, but it appears TW stopped carrying it, which is a shame. It was budget friendly, and the quality was great for the price. Picassos' products are good quality, and their tungsten is no exception. Ill likely be sticking with them and Reins. One of my favorite DS baits that doesn't get the attention it should is Robowoms' Alive Shad. The buoyancy is perfect and the action is great.

It all depends on the conditions and areas you fish. If you want to wade or fish on the beach you can use casting gear, but due to the nature of casting reels, it's impossible to seal them completely. All you can do is be very mindful and careful as to how you handle the reel. All that foam and spray is full of sand, so even a splash can be problematic. Mind your hands as well after handling a fish. You want to make sure there is no sand on your hands when you pickup the reel again. Some bass reels are actually quite resistant to SW. The older Tat SV was fairly well suited with several CRBBs. A purpose-built SW reel will have sealed bearings and or use bushings wherever possible to reduce failure points. If you're worried about corrosion, I would grease the drag, main gear and pinion. Avoid over oiling and grease on the level wind, all that will do is attract debris. The gear you use depends on where your fishing more than what you are fishing for. Bridges and jetties are subject to heavy current. Your fighting that current and the fish, so keep that in mind. Just like bass fishing, you want heavier gear around pilings, bridges or rocks, because they are going to run for cover right away. In open water you can get away with lighter tackle. So long as you have a general line up for FW bass fishing you should have everything you need. When you go to wash your gear, its very important you gently rinse the gear with cool water. Blasting it with a hard stream of water just pushes sand and salt deposits deeper into the reel. If the hose has been sitting in the sun, the water in the hose can get hot. That warmer water can dissolve the crystalized salt deposits, where cooler water just flushes it out.

Been fishing an IMA iSV for 9 or 10 years. Its a killer in very cold water. 6th sense has one 2, but if I had to pick 1 over the other, it would be the ima. Riot actually makes a really good cold water lipless. It doesnt sink as slow as the IMA, probably close to 3 seconds per foot. The Jackall TN60 has caught so many fish for me. They sink really fast, but I always seem to get bit if I put some time in with it. I like fishing it on the bottom around structure in the winter and early prespawn. Duos Nitro lipless is one I really like. Its nothing like the Apex or G fix. Its got a wide bottom that tapers in towards the top, which gives it a good shimmy on the fall. You can run it slow or burn it and it won't blow out. The 3/8 is just over 2" and matches the forage well in the fall, but does equally well in the spring.

I've had similar issues, especially with the old school flat rubber. If you keep it in a cool dry place during the summer and make sure to remove trailers, I think you would be ok.

You could have spooled it loose, reeling in too much slack, using the auto bail trip, or the line is really twisted. You have to make sure to manually operate the bail, avoid taking in too much slack line, make sure baits are rigged straight so they don't spin on the retrieve. Once you do get twists in your line, fix it as soon as possible. A good roller bearing helps, but I don't think you need one. A few of my LTs use bushings and they work fine.

All of my tightlining, ned rigging and inshore jighead and plastics/bucktails are tied on with a Rapala knot. If you tie it and cinch a Rapala knot correctly, they're strong enough. Most people tie them backwards. It causes the tag to stick out of the side instead of bottom, which is one of the main advantages of that particular loop, it doesn't catch grass. The other issue I see most people do, is make the loop way too big. IME the bigger loops break easier and don't provide the freedom of movement that a small loop will. I like to make mine about the size of a pea. Every now and then I accidentally hook into a big striper while using light gear on the jetty looking for weakfish. It takes so long tire a good bass out on light gear and it's really hard to revive a fish on that particular jetty, even in perfect weather. With a loop knot I can just palm spool and break that knot if I have too. I would rather a jighead be stuck in her mouth until it rusts out, over her not being strong enough to fight the heavy surf after the release and end up being crab food.

I buy a rod because I like the rod, the designer or owner of the company is secondary if it's important at all. Some of the Black Widows seem nice, but for a little more $ I would rather get Century or Zenaq blank custom built with light components. I can understand shying away from a company when the founder steps down, and the product and or customer service suffers. I think Gary Dobyns is still involved at some capacity, unlike Loomis who has little to nothing to do with his former company. I was at DSG and they had a Dobyns Frenzy, which is like a DSG exclusive I guess because they don't seem to exist anywhere else. IMO the 703 Frenzy felt much better than the 703 Fury. I'm sure it's just a Colt or some other existing blank with different cosmetics and a full cork handle.

Regals are probably the best at their price point. I don't own one, but a friend has a couple and they run great.

I know, but he survived and went on work with a few different companies. Pretty sure he's still Edge, why not use those instead of Loomis?

Get some white toothpaste and a toothbrush, then scour the hook hangers and even the body of the bait if it is stained. The grit in the toothpaste will remove most of the surface rust without damaging anything. If you see pitting or large pieces of metal breaking off, then it may be time to retire the bait. I suppose if you have enough baits with rust, it would be worth using electrolysis first and if there is any rust left try scrubbing the baits with toothpaste. The grit may scratch the clearcoat, but its nothing that fish wouldn't do.

I like braid for bottom contact, but I fish around a lot of grass and wood with jigs. When braid contacts grass or wood, its really loud. For that reason, I use FC. I don't throw shaky heads into cover often so I use braid on my shaky head setup. Really line choice is a preference. If mono works for you and you like it, stay with it.

Those stock hooks on SRS and SRs are a nightmare if there are any pickerel around Decoy Silky #5 or Hayabusa 930 TBL #4

I leave a few rods in my vehicle overnight in the winter, fairly often. Granted the vehicle in a garage. but I leave a bucket of water out for the dog and carts to drink it freezes in the garage when its gets really cold. If its going to be bitter cold long enough to lock the water up, I bring my gear in. Grease and lubricants may congeal a bit, but I don't think it does any permanent damage. As far as line, I've never seen any incontrovertible evidence that FC is compromised structurally from the cold. I've done a lot of resident striper fishing when its below freezing. Some reels are prone to losing their AR slipping or completely failing in the cold, but it's not a permanent problem. Once the clutch warms up, the reel works properly. My biggest headache in the cold is line freezing.

Why would you boycott Dobyns and not G Loomis? Gary Loomis sold his company to Shimano decades ago.

When you from a 120$ rod to a 180 you typically don't see a great increase of performance. You might get better guides or a slightly lighter blank, but don't expect it to blow you away. If youre used to 100$ price point rods, you don't feel too much difference until you get a little over 200$, but there are exceptions. Victory feels great in hand, like a 300$ rod, but beware of the ML spinning rods. They made the tips so soft it dampens a lot of that feedback, which really hurts felt sensitivity. Mine has become a JB and shad rap rod. The M power Vics don't have a super glassy tip, so they don't suffer like the MLs. Zodias is a great buy. Like the Victory, its very light in hand and the components are pretty solid. Levante is another really good value. They aren't the lightest rods, but the balance is good. The actions and powers make them really versatile as well. DSG had 1 13 Oath a few weeks ago. I cant speak to the rest of the lineup, but the 7'3 MH F felt really good for a 100$ rod. The last gen Muse Black @180$ has some great models in the lineup, very light, balanced and sensitive. The new Muse upgraded to a 40t blank. If the current gen Muse is like the older model with an improved blank, it should be a great rod. The problem is no one carries them around here, so i would have to buy one to get my hands on one. I

Yeah, looks like some quality tackle. I like the design of the shot caller. I like Mud Shad, Crawdad, Kent Craw, Trust me Craw Probably just my eyes, but I wish, there was a bigger hi def images of each individual skirt color. The rollover zoom gives you the basic idea, but it's hard for me to see in high detail.

Tranx 150/200 are similar to Curado K, although there are differences. Tranx only uses bearings where it's necessary and bushings everywhere else. A friend of mine likes to use swimbait rods in the surf/jetty to throw plugs. Out of the Tat 150, Curado k and Tranx 200, Tranx was the only reel didn't eventually develop a problem. The Curado had issues with the drag as did the Tatula, among other problems. Hes not easy on his gear. but that kind of environment is hard on BCs.