GetFishorDieTryin

You mean 4 rows? If so you can get Spro or Rapala boxes for about 12$ per, but they blow the Planos away in quality and customization particualry the Spro.

Thats strange. Ive never had one brak a lip from just fish. I unintentionally catch lots of pickerel with them, but I dont like too. Every one ive lost is from a bite off, particularly the Jrs, but Ive had a few that have had 100 or close caught on them with just serious paint damage.

The round reel market is in great shape, the options are just limited for FW, but in all honesty FW round reels have a limited customer base in comparison to low pros. The introduction of slow pitch jigging rods made the technique extremely popular, even for land based anglers. When you pair up a decent with slow pitch rod with a BV 300 its a game changer, because they're a blast to fish.

Post a video of it if you can that would really help.

Agreed...there is a big difference in InvizX once you get over #12, but its not to the extent of other FC mainlines I've used. Its got less stretch than other budget FCs, but the main reason I really like is it manageability. It handles water in the low 40s great without conditioner or anything. I do wish it was a little more durable, but that's an issue with all FC mainlines. I don't think Im going to get anymore flagship FCs, I'm sure they're great, but the prices of FC have increased considerably all FC in the past year, just about doubled in some cases. Eventually Im going to grab a spool of this. BassHQ did a really thorough test on a bunch of FC of all price points and Gouken came out on top, not just by a little but a lot. Thanks guys.

A 6'10 M fast would be my choice.

FGs are great, but for small dia the PR is stronger. Honestly the Alberto is the one I would suggest to use. If you can seat it right, it more than strong enough.

Swim Jig as a search bait and a free or mojo rig with a palmetto bug for slowing down. A SJ can be thrown anywhere, and the fry guarders really react to them in peak SJ season, May-July, but ill have one tied until September. As for the soft plastics, I just like a Palmetto bug because they float, which is key on a mojo or free rig and 1 bag will catch a ridiculous amount of fish.

Never used Sunline in #15 or heavier. Been happy with InvizX for some time, but am curious about Sunline. It would be for a do it all outfit with swim jigs, chatterbaits and t rigs seeing most of the work. Anyone who has used Sniper/Assassin and has experience with InvizX in #15 or #16, I would appreciate any input on how they compare...TYIA

Theyre a real salty bait , a decent jighead wont be affected too much, but it can corrode other baits you have that in the same section of the box. Bleeding is an issue, depending on the colors. Lighter colors, Elec shad, ghost rainbow, sexy shad are more susceptible to it. As long as you store with them with like colors and opacity, within reason you won't see too much distortion. The suppleness of the plastic makes them resistant to kinks and bends, but not invulnerable. When you carry a bag all day it makes it easier for that bait to settle in the bottom or top of a section. IME the only part that really is affected is the paddle tail itself, it may take a little crease, but I dont think its a big loss. If you're really worried about keeping the bait straight, you can cut the clamshell up so that the baits are singles and still protected, kind of like kraft singles. Although they still will take up more space than an unprotected bait, the amount of dead space is vastly reduced.

I just use a rag or the end of my sleeve if its a long shirt for the vast majority of knots, simply because I'm lazy. Tightening connection knots I've found that some towels can strip the outer layer of the right off lol. I've never really hurt myself, some paper cuts with light PE on finer tips. Saw a guy sink some PP into hand as a kid. It was the first year PP really caught on with the pier rat crowd slinging clams. Guy tried to pull a wind knot out, which works but the towel he was using slipped and sunk 50PP to his what looked like to the bone. He put electrical tape on them and kept fishing lol. I saw him the following fall and he had actually lost his middle finger. I guess bacteria on that towel from clams got into the wound and he had to have it amputated.

That was the first crankbait I ever really beat them down on. Since most of water I fish is soft bottom and shallow I havent used them much since. Most of crankbait fishing is deflection off wood so I really want that bill to be square or at least coffin shaped, unless there's lots of grass.

TBH it doesn't make a difference. If that knot starts to slip under heavy load its more than likely going to fail. If the knot is tied and seated right, you can trim the tag down a couple mm. Just glove up if you're cinching that knot down, PE can do some damage under pressure.

I love FC for casting gear, it does 80% of the work, easy. It sounds like you need to use more brakes and possibly tighten the spool up, especially coming from a Daiwa. Generally, if the line begins to get squirrelly in the begging of the cast its a brake issue and later is the cast its spool tension. Start with heavy brakes and spool tension and ease them back gradually as you progress. It sounds like there could be other issues as well, but I would start with brakes and spool tension. If you continue to have issues, just get a spool of Big Game mono and try that out, its dirt cheap and at worst is great as backing. Once you figure the reel out and want to try FC again, just use 50 or 60 yards of FC with mono underneath it as backing, it goes a long way. Although I love FC there are some nuances. I would think the water is fairly warm by this time in Wisconsin, but keep in mind some FC gets very stiff when the water is in the 40s and can be a hassle to use as I ran into that problem with heavier Red Label. Personally I've found InvizX to be very consistent and supple enough to fish all winter especially in 12lb. Your going to notice a loss in sensitivity with FC compared to PE, but not to the extent where you cant feel a spinnerbait slow roll or crankbait work. If its a stiffer rod and it doesn't have enough load, that could dampen sensitivity and would 100% be more challenging to manage a reel on.

The vast majority of balsa baits are going to be super high floating baits out of the box, which makes them hard to fish like a contemporary JB. As soon as you lose tension the bait will rise very fast, which can be good if a fish is right on it, but for finicky fish I want the bait to suspend or sink slowly. Plastic just makes more sense, cost and consistency wise for JBs, but I'm a big believer in certain balsa cranks, just wish they weren't so costly.

An X rap is more of a do it all JB, it does everything well. The round body of the X rap gives it good roll on a swim or twitch which makes them versatile. The SR is more of a modern design slash bait, with flat sides and tight action. It has a similar walking action when enough pressure is applied but does it in a shorter distance than X rap and is more prone to blow out IME. While the X rap is good I think the SR is one of the only Rapala JBs I use anymore, because I like the slow sink. The drawback is both lack a weight transfer system which really hurts distance in comparison to other JBs on the market. The hooks on either of them aren't very good and for another 2$ you can get a Duo which IMO is a superior bait, if you want a suspending (slow float in reality).

Craw and creature nekos smash em. I dont try to catch bedding fish really, but if I wanted too, its hard to beat a paca craw or air craw. Brush hogs are really good too.

What weights?

No reels are backlash proof, but DCs and SVs are close. The DC will excel in distance where the SV will excel in close/mid range and lighter baits. Hes going to need his thumb, it's the primary brake, same with fingers on spinning reels. You can tighten any reel down, to where the spool won't blow up if you don't thumb it after splashdown, but it's going to dramatically decrease performance. What's nice about DCs are they're very simple systems, only 4 settings, 3 corresponding to line type and the last for foul weather which would be essentially max brakes. Tatula SV lacks the range of a DC, but is better with lighter baits out to medium range. If I could only 1, I lean to the SLX DC, because it fits the way I fish and much prefer its ergonomics and it just continues to work as good as new. Both reels are winners, but don't forget the rod needs to be correct as well. If it doesn't load, then you likely won't be happy with performance of either reel.

Never owned 1, but I know some guys who can afford anything and use them for bucktailing fluke.

Generally if it's got an insert than it's Tungsten. Density is the giveaway, Tungsten is considerably smaller in comparison but of equal weight, usually 2/3 the size or less of it's corresponding lead weight. With the prices of tungsten I would hesitant to sell it as it's only going to increase in price.

Square bills work well, but for me excel seasonally in the prespawn just lily stems are sprouting until pads form. Use the SB as intended. It might seem sketchy to toss them into stump and root fields, but it's what they're designed for. A lot of days they won't hit unless you get a good aggressive deflection. I've noticed silent SBs outfish rattling SBs in the vast majority of pressured I fish regardless of water color or weather. Colors are secondary IMO. You don't need but a few. I prefer orange and craw colors early going to shad or white base later, and occasionally ghost colors like matte shad in clear conditions.

SC makes a good product, that was very consistent, for better or worse. Unfortunately they're trying to evolve too fast in some facets and it shows. They went and replaced the rock solid purple Mojo Inshore and wound up with a breakage rate that is catastrophicly high. Reel seats on certain lines have had considerable failures, resulting in premature redesign in BassX and to a lesser extent seage. Im not dogging SC at all, I have more SCs any other 2 brands combine, but Im a little hesitant to give them the benefit of the doubt anymore. I hope they can streamline production and get the bugs out, because I would rather they do business than a company outsourcing labor.

7'3 MH F if I had to pick 1

#8 ichi LW for 110 jr.