GetFishorDieTryin

The Rozys actually use the Duo Speahead Ryuki hooks which are a lighter wire then the Nano hooks. When you upsize the 63 2 sizes to #8 and 77 to #6 Ryukis, both baits nearly suspend instead of slow float. Heavier hooks work, but the magnet that keeps the front hook flush to the body, doesnt always hold the hook flush to the body and changes the balance of the bait. I have had the stock trebles become duo hooks while trying to remove them with pliers after being completely buried in the roof of the mouth. In all fairness the 2 hooks that have broken had both seen close to if not over 100 fish. As long as you are using the right gear with a sensible drag setting the stock hooks are more then adequate IMO.

That video was made a few months ago right? Im pretty sure I saw it but I don't remember the brand, other then it being Japanese. Deep Impact

The heaviest I've had on scale was 6.2, but I can remember 2 that I didn't weigh that were both between 6.5 and 7. It doesnt have a weight transfer system, so it doesn't cast as well, but the 85sp is one you should try as well.

There are casting reels that have components that resist corrosion a little better. You still have to strip a Chron G or Coastal SV if they get dunked if you want it to last, just like any other BC reel.

From my experiences 13 is pretty consistent with actions. Rod lines that share the same blank are very close. Sometimes the number of guides, layout, length of rod and rear handle length will change the action slightly. I have a Muse 7'1 M F, but have used the Omen 3s, which share the same 36t Toray blank. The # of guides and layout is is nearly identical so the actions are very consistent between those 2 lines.

I think I still have some that I got in one of those 20$ worm buckets that cabelas sold 25 yrs ago. I had one on a bitsy bug when I caught my first jig fish.

There are some ridiculous warning labels out there. Years ago there was a picture of the label on a superman Halloween costume going around the internet. It said, "Warning! Wearing this garment may not enable you to fly." I don't think it was a joke either.

If you tie and seat a good connection knot correctly, you wont have any issues breaking 12 and even 15lb FC knots with 10lb PE.

Believe it or not 13 has a great JB/topwater M F. I have a 7'1 which is a little more versatile and I use it for just about everything, but its great with trebles. The 6'7 is a little more crisp with a shorter tip section and a short handle so its a perfect JB/Topwater rod IMO.

If you can keep them reasonably dry wool is the warmest for its weight and still hold heat when damp. Neoprene with a thinsulate liner is the way to go if you ae going to get wet. Glomits are great, they keep youre fingers warm when they need too, but you still have the use of fingertips and thumb when you need them. The drawback to glomts is that they are bulky and can get wet on the inside. You have to take them off to access a pocket.

If you spend a few hundred $ for a decent DS rod then IMO it makes sense to use tungsten as long as you aren't snagging up all the time. My local waters are mostly millponds where hard bottom is scarce. Boat ramps, spillways, bridges or areas with more current create a harder bottom. The transitions from leaf litter to gravel often hold fish so being able to distinguish that difference easily pays off. My favorite weights are Reins TG slims, but because of their cost I use Swagger cylinder weights most often. That shape just seems to come through everything better for me and I like the way it contacts the bottom. I generally use 3/32 or 1/8 even in deeper water. I will go to a 3/16 or 1/4 at the most in wind, but its rare. No matter the shape or weight a round eye instead of a clip is a must for me. You lose far fewer weight to jumping fish or pinched line.

While suffix is a consistent and durable PE, its casting distance is underwhelming compared to other braids. #20 832 will outperform FC on a smaller dia spool, like a 2500 distance wise, but not by much. USDM lines are rated by minimum breaking strength, where JDM lines are rated at max breaking strength, which makes a big difference, keep that in mind. If you want to stay with a USDM line and get good casting distance, start by going down to 10lb test. 10lb PE will can take more weight you should ever need. Not only does the thinner dia cast better, but the decrease in drag in the water is substantial. Dollar for dollar I really like X9. I don't think it's as thin as Berkely claims it is, but its still thinner then most braids. Pline TCB is another great casting braid, although it casts slightly better then X9 when its new, I still favor X9 because its a little more durable.

You can catch fish dragging a chatterbait all winter, but I just dont find it very efficient or as effective as other baits. However, as soon as the nights start to become shorter and the water warms up a little bit there dragging a chatterbait is by far the most effective method ive found to catch numbers of better fish. Until the bite picks up in mid to late feb, smaller baits that cover water generally out fish most anything else. Small hair jigs, swimbaits/grubs, JBs and spybaits.

Those MB rods are nice. I was impressed how stout the Orochi Whipsnake felt, while still having that light crisp feel. MB must have put a serious amount of time into ergonomics and balance because the few models I have gotten to handle feel lighter than they actually are.

Ohh, I gotcha..I carry a Leatherman stylus that I found on the bank a few years back. They're slightly bigger then a AA battery. Instead of pliers its got a pair of small very sharp shears.

May not sounds like much, but on an outfit that light it's going to make a big difference, almost a 20% weight reduction. I like a high grip on spinning rods, with all of my fingers above the stem. If I change the reel and the balance shifts slightly, I can slide my hand up or down slightly if I need too. Dont put too much stock worrying about "flex." When I hear people claim they have experienced frame flex on a Ballistic, Vanford or other high quality composite frame coupled with a smooth drag, while fighting a 12" SMB, it drives me crazy. Even if you have a primitive understanding of how to use a drag, you wont have any issues

You cut hooks often?

I got onto spunk before they were being pushed by TB and even at that time Hog Farmer has had an affiliation with Missile Baits, among other brands. Most of the Hog Farmer products are terminal tackle, like jig heads and A rigs. Since the spunk shad was one of if not the only soft plastics they made, I could see them outsourcing the production to another company. Spunk Shads weren't all that popular. Once TB started pushing them, they were hard to get for a while. Hog Farmer couldn't even get the packaging made fast enough for a while. I got a number of packs of spunk shads direct from Hog Farmer that didn't have the usual labeling, just generic clear bags. I could see Hog Farmer bringing in or licensing Missile Baits to increase overall production numbers. That would also explain how they were able to put new colors out while catching up with the higher demand for the baits at the same time. Of course, I could be completely wrong, but just a thought.

For Gami split/drop and Mosquito light #1 and #2 when nose hooked covers all but the smallest of baits. For standard Mosquito its a #2 and #4.

mein schiessen knoten

If distance is a priority or you plan on using FC then the bigger spool dia of the 2500 would be the way to go IMO. The weight of an Exceler or Fuego 2500 compared to most 1000 Shimanos at a lower price point is just about the same, so balance wouldnt be an issue. It comes down to preference in the end.

Youre much better off going with a pair that has more room compared to a snug pair. If you plan on duck hunting and are going to be walking through deep mud, then you need to be careful you dont go too big, as the suction from the mud can pull you're foot right out of the boot. Same goes for the fit of the waders around the inseam. A snug fit puts far more pressure on the seams and welds when compared with a loose fit pair.

You can get pork, but the prices are steep. Papaw E has had pork out long before Uncle Josh got back on the market. I haven't tried them because he doesnt offer strips or the split tail sea rind shapes. Supposedly he puts out a good product and he used to do custom colors and size frogs, (within reason) not sure if that is the case anymore.

Duo Realis 120 in prism gill

Ive never really found subtle curly or ribbon tails to be detrimental in cold water. Ive had my best results with double tail grubs and very good success with tiny brush hogs on micro jigs. The brush hog jrs dont have the bulk I want and the brush hogs are just too big. Super hogs look like they have the right bulk and profile to be effective. Although Ive had success in the past with them, aggressive kicking trailers like rage and paca chunks are the ones I stay away from these days. I have used salty chunks cut down, often when pitching wood on the sunny bank in late dec-feb, but haven't extensively used them on football jigs.