GetFishorDieTryin

It could be a bearing, or it could be dry. I got a dry Metanium with a bad bearing and for a little while I thought I had a dud gear set.

I take the tail hooks of my non wire thru baits that I use for stripers. You should see what a 15lb blue would do that 110.

Yes, the iSVs are total sleepers. With stock hooks and 12lb FC the Ghost AYU sinks about 1' in 2.5-3 seconds, the baits with more paint on them sink slightly faster. You can alter the sink rate by adding lead or changing the hooks. You can burn and stop like a crank, fish it with a JB cadence or fish it on the bottom/rip it out of grass like a trap. Most days youre going to find a retreive that works if you stick with it. Its doesnt cast quite as well as a 1/2oz trap, but it casts far enough to make it a really effective bait for covering water. I can get it about 30 yards out with a 7' M F in less then ideal conditions. 6th sense makes a slow sink quake, but Im not crazy about it. With the stock hooks it sinks slightly faster then the Ima, but the stock hooks are waay too big. If you want a trap that falls faster then the SS quake and iSV, but still has slower fall rate then a RES then IMO the Riot Raptor is the 1 you should invest in.

Its got to be different because they have a 7'3 MH F and the 7'3 MagMH F in most of their lines. The MagMHs have are rated for stronger line, but same sugg weight range. The 7'3 MH F has some tip to it, but I would imagine the MagMHs have the or slightly more tip, but have more power on the lower end.

The pic reminds me of the "Marsh ID" challenge at the back of Ducks Unlimited Magazines. Those iSV70s (flits are the JBs) have almost completely replaced the sinking JB for me, especially in dirty water. I know fire tiger is a discontinued older color, but never seen the blue black back, is it a JDM rocket vibe or a color that got discontinued before I started using them?

How does the MagMH compare to the 7'3 MH F?

Just about every bite can completely different, so it makes it really hard to say what exactly is going on at the end of the line without actually seeing it. Even though I cant say for certain how the fish has eaten my chatterbait, Ive found that waiting a half a beat after feeling the hit, regardless of how solid it felt, is going to result in more fish hooked compared to swinging on them as soon as you feel the hit. As long as you have some give in the equation, whether its mono line with stretch or a rod with a soft tip, maybe even both its going to work benefit you in the end. What has worked for me for 15 years may not work for you, no 2 people have the same hookset. I used a stiff with rod with braid in the mid 2ks when the chatterbait was just blowing up. I caught fish, but I dont have a super aggressive hookset. I just found I would lose the bigger fish that had just slapped at it and been skin hooked because I would pull the hook. I figured out that a slightly softer rod helped me work the bait more efficiently and helped me cover more water.

They are charging the item to the same card you used with the initial order that the item was backordered on. Once you place the order you have permitted them to withdraw the $ amount of amount of each and every item listed once the item is shipped. Ive never saved my card info and they go ahead and bill the card used in the initial order every time I had gotten a backordered item. In the past 15 years all of the backordered items I have gotten were shipped in under 6 months. The only backordered item I never got was a Duo 85 in LC Wakasagi that Duo decided to pull from the USDM after postponing initial delivery several times. Pre covid they were johnny on the spot no matter what kind of shipping I got. If i didnt get the 5$ 2 day the order would be at my house in 4-5 business days and I'm literally on the other side of the country. I think thats how TW became the juggernaut it is today, no one had 5$ 2 day shipping. As long as the item is in stock at the retail location, I get TD deliveries in 2 bussiness days or less but thats because I live an hour from their main retail and shipping facility.

Thats not how it works

I set mine up pretty much the same way except I more often then not stay with 2 on 2 off. I use the spool tension to make further adjustments.

Ive done really well neko rigging the baby hogs and using the tiny brushhog on micro jigs and jig heads. Like everyone else I t rig them too, but Ive actually been throwing the super hog more the past few years.

sorry, i tried posting the article i read that in, but it didnt work I had to edit the post to get it in. The article also says the curado dc weighs 8.6 which is way off. I had an chron mgl and sold mine as well. I caught a couple stripers over 20lbs and for the most part it felt solid. Thumbing the spool on the hookset it could get a little funny with blues and bass, but I attributed that to the composite sideplate. The Met B def feels way better as far as rigidity and i like the way it palms much better.

I knew the sideplate was a composite. Not sure about ci4, but the chron mgl has a magnesium frame, not a carbon composite? I knew they had AL framed reels around 7oz when the chron mgl was fairly new, i figured they saved 14gs with the sideplate, spool and swapped out plastic parts for metal. https://funcfish.com/shimano-chronarch-mgl-vs-curado-dc/#:~:text=The Shimano Chronarch,in any environment.

Swam Jag

I thought the Chron MGL was AL? The frame that is.

No matter what reel you put on that the balance point isnt going to shift much. I think Dobyns weights their rods in the butt to ensure the rods balancing point is in in the area of the grip with a wide range of reel weights. I really don't think a tip heavy rod gives you any advantage in any situation, especially one where you have to manipulate the bait with the rod as much as a topwater or JB. A balanced outfit is more comfortable and doesn't cause nearly as much fatigue as a tip heavy one.

There are lots of nice fish caught on red baits because so many people throw them during the best part of the year to catch a quality fish. I dont really buy into the hype, but I think there is something to it. As a kid my fishing buddy always used an all red roster tail (red blade red body red hackle), not because he read somewhere that red worked in the spring, but because it was his favorite color. Its a roster tail, so it always caught fish. What I noticed was year after year from late march into early may, that stupid roster tail wouldnt just catch more numbers, but would match and even exceed the quality of fish I was catching. I was using crankbaits, spinnerbait, senkos and this was early 2000s. At that time senkos weren't incredibly popular yet, they worked so well it was like cheating. I know for sure because he even kept an excel spreadsheet on his computer, keeping track of who caught what and when. Once may would come its effectiveness would taper off, size wise anyway and he would start throwing a senko.

When you have a fish in tight cover like pads or even docks, you can get the fish out of the cover faster, which increases the odds of landing her if she is facing the direction you are applying pressure from when you set the hook. When you get that bit, dont just reel down and whack her. Take the slack up slow. Once you feel the fish keep applying pressure for a few a few more seconds to turn her head to the direction you want her to go. Once you feel like you have where you want her drop the tip and hit her and winch her out. It takes some time getting the hang of it, but its worked pretty well for me and it sounds like you dont have much to lose. You do need a rod that has some length and tip to it with a decent mid section, because that what you're turning the fish with before you set the hook. As a kid I used to do it with braid, but I was using spinning gear that had much more give, I use FC now. Once youre wrapped up around a lily stem youre in trouble, especially if its more then 1 stem. A braid with texture will help bite into grass. Youre looking for a 4 or 5 carrier instead of an 8 or 9. You eant a strong braid obviously, but a thinner braid will have less resistance. #65 X5 or #65 Vicious should work pretty well.

Buzzbaits are great. They will come thru sparse grass as long as its not that fibrous stuff that jams the blade up. I really dont like clackers because it doesnt take much grass to foul the clacker and once that happens the cast is wasted. A trailer helps the bait plane at slower speeds, you just dont want something too big it will cut distance. I keep it fairly simple, double tail grubs for open water and a GL hammer craw for skipping. Black skirt and black blade is where its at.

Sometimes thats the way it is, but generally when I have days like that I learn something or find a spot that may be good a different time of year. If it makes you feel better I had a rough day too. 1 fish short of a limit with the biggest being about 2 pounds. All fish were caught in the last 45 minutes of daylight.

For me personally, the short answer is no. I don't necessarily need to see bait to stop and work a spot, especially in post frontal or bluebird conditions. Those fish may not be actively feeding on bait, but they will take a smaller swimbait or ned rig most of the time, if you can get it front of them. The past week shad have been frequenting a shallow flat in the evening. To access this flat the shad have to pass under a bridge and swim up a steep bank to access the flat. The bass have been holding around that bridge and positioning themselves so that they can pick shad off as they file through the channel. The smaller bass are actively schooling and feeding on them in the last 30 mins of daylight where the bigger fish seem to be content just ascending up the steep bank in the early afternoon and waiting for a few hours for the shad to come through in the evening. There are more active fish will follow the school, but so far I havent been able to get one over 2 pounds. Thats just an example of an area is holding fish where there is no bait to be found. Clear water is a relative term to me. It depends on what the water normally looks like. Dirty water doesnt seem to have the negative effect on fish that are used to feeding in water that has a perpetual stain to it. Conversely, fish that are accustomed to clear water are more affected by low or no viz situations. What Ive found this time of year when you have sunnier days and a stain to the water where you have 1 or 1.5' viz the fish often will sit on those steep banks at the edge of my visibility, to where I can see them nose down on a jig, but if they don't move its hard to pick out their silhouette. This time of year I like cleaner water not so the fish can see my bait better, but for light penetration. Shallow cover will heat up faster in cleaner water, which gets insects and other invertebrates moving that the fish can feed on. I would lean more towards bait being more important than clean water the majority of the time. Just dont overlook places that dont have bait at the current time, but have the shallow cover and deep water access the fish are looking for this time of year.

I def wouldnt stay home. This is the time of year when things break wide open. The fish are already staging shallow here and pushing schools of bait in the evenings of sunnier days. Water temp plays a role, but dont live and die by it. Fish are going to be far more active in mid Feb when the water is 43 vs 43 in late Dec. I wouldnt be surprised to see some quality fish on the feed thurs and friday with this moon cycle. Try to find the cleanest water you can and look for shallow cover with easy access to deeper water relative to avg depth of the lake. Its hard to say where they may be. Earlier this week the fish were about as shallow as they could get (6-8") on a steep bank, and were aggressive enough to take everything I threw at them. 2 days later they were on the same steep bank but instead of being really shallow they were 2-3' and not quite as aggressive. I had to downsize and slow down a little to get bit. The cold and extended period of rain can put them down or in a negative mood. If the water isnt too much clearer normally like 2-3' viz then I would think you could get away with swimming a small swimbait or ned rig around bridges, pilings, steep banks, rocks or any kind of cover they can be relating too. I would have a JB ready to go as well as they make a great 1-2 punch with more subtle baits. Once you pick up a few fish in a certain spot or find a pattern then slow down with a jig and really work those areas over.

I completely disagree. My neice, who doesnt fish at all, was able to use the reel with efficiency in a little over 2 hours and could skip by the end of the day. Since the DCs are set and forget when it comes to brakes, theyre an excelent tool to learn how to use spool tension to get what you want out of the reel. Automatic to manual is a great analogy. The Daiwa SV reels are a good option as well. The SVs are better for shorter casts with lighter baits compared to the DC system thats in the SLX DC. Since you currently use a MH spinning set up that will cast light baits at short distances, I feel the DC is the more practical tool to compliment youre situation. I grew up using heavy spinning gear in SW. I didn't see the advantage of BC reels until I bought one. The ability to cast heavy line long distances and take up line without twists or windknots is a huge benefit. BC reels have more power then spinning reels for the most part. With casting gear you can winch the fish in with just the reel, as opposed to spinning gear where you have to pump the rod and take up slack in between pumps on a bigger fish. If you do decide to get in BC gear, I can promise after the first good fish you understand why they are so popular and will most likely never want to throw a bigger bait on spinning gear again. I still use heavy spinning gear in the surf, but thats mostly because BC reels are very suceptable and vulnerable to saltwater/sand intrusion by the nature of the design and my bigger spinning reels are 100% waterproof when I take a wave or splash I dont have to strip the reel down when I get home to avoid equipment failure.

Surprised no one else has recommended the SLX DC. As long as you get a rod that will somewhat load with the baits you're trying to throw, you can become proficient with that reel in less then 3 hours because its such a simple reel. Instead of a brake dial you select the number on the knob that corresponds to the type of line you're using and or conditions. There are only 4 settings... 1) least brakes for extremely calm conditions (I don't recommend using this until you're advanced) 2) Braid/Mono 3) Flurocarbon 4) High winds, skipping, "beginner" setting In setting 4 the reel is very hard to backlash unintentionally as long as the spool has adequate tension. You can further adjust the reel by tightening or loosening the spool tension to depending on how "tight" or "loose" you want the reel to run. Since the settings are generalized you dont have to worry about adjusting brakes when you change baits. Although the SLX DC is great reel to learn on, the reel is such a workhorse that its going to have a place in youre line up for years to come. It comes with a long handle and beefy knobs which are comfortable and make it easier to get a good fish out of a tight spot in a hurry. I love SC, but I would recommend getting the most bang youre money and that price point Ark is really hard to beat. They use a blank in a 100$ rod that is every bit as good or better then the SC3 blanks. The 7'3 MH F Tharp is where I would start. Its a F, but its got enough give to it to make it incredibly versatile. I have the same blank in the Essence and I use it for everything from jigs to chatterbaits and it does really well. The 13 Omen Black is a really good rod too and theyre on sale at TW. In fact they have the Yak series Omen Blacks with a short rear grip. The Tatula elites are on sale as well for 140. I dont have any experience with the casting Tatula Elites, but the Tatulas I do have are out of this world.