TNBankFishing

I know it comes off as bashing but in today’s crowded online market you need something to keep people coming back. Carry the largest selection of JDM tackle stateside - The Hookup Tackle Have literally everything including store unique product runs - TW Run fantastic sales and sweet open box/mystery box deals -MidwayUSA I feel like The Rod Locker took the lazy way and tried to reboot ALF without the things ALF did right. Low used prices and great secret sales on high priced brands. There is still time to right the ship, and I hope the folks over there do so.

New knobs for my jdm Zillion HD. Stocked up on OSP and Deps baits. New mono for the catfish rigs.

Not sure if we’re allowed to talk about this shop. Going to post my thoughts after watching the grand opening and Presidents’ Day sale. TL:DR Look elsewhere, not worth the time or money. Longer version: The main shop carries nearly all the same tackle as American Legacy Fishing did previously. This means an ok selection of rods and reels targeted towards bass and some minimal efforts towards other species. Bait selection is small. Extremely limited is a good term. Again with the stupid pay for a subscription thing. Spend money up front so I can get free shipping and access to sales I already should. This type of thing needs to stop. How much do I need to spend over a year to recoup my costs? $1000? Considering it would be extremely difficult to meet that threshold with their paltry options I’ll always pass. My major issue is the used section. They are charging 90% of MSRP for used gear. It’s obviously a ripoff because nearly all of that same gear can be bought on sale brand new for 20-30% off. They have provided a small portion of the used gear for an increased discount but it’s nothing you’d actually want to buy. If you can call and get a brand new NRX for $520 with a full warranty and expiditor why on earth would I spend $550 on a used one? Overall unless something drastically changes they will be stuck behind at least 4 other shops which provide better prices. I’d probably shop at TW before the rod locker and that in itself is all you need to know. UPDATE! There are some misconceptions and misunderstandings in the above post that have since been clarified in this subsequent post: https://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/269286-the-rod-locker/page/2/#findComment-3208392

Which isn’t saying much anymore. I guess with the cache they already have they can just milk their product lines. Fine by me, let others innovate and push the envelope.

They are particular just like I am about jig rods. I could have 4 different sticks on hand for just the right application. I just never catch anything on jerkbaits compared to other techniques so I’m indifferent to the rods.

893 in the casting version is a light t rig and single hook moving bait rod. It isn’t moderate enough in action for trebles. 1/8 - 3/8 spinnerbaits, bladed jigs, free rig, Texas rig/jig. Pushing above 3/8 felt doable but I usually moved to my 873. The 842 would be a good neko/wacky Rod, but I’m not sure the tip is light enough for small baits like a Ned or drop shot. The power of the NRX Ned Rod is 1, so a very light tip.

You bring up an interesting example between two vastly different styles of using the same bait. The Oneten stick is a JDM style JB rod, which means it’s actually not designed with the extra fast tip section. You’re saying to still responds the same way with the first 3 guides being extra fast? I knew the USDM JB rod was built like the other lines. I wonder if the oneten stick is more similar to the Otomat was.

I hear this same sort of thing all the time when my job comes up. People often describe how AI has given them access to knowledge they previously found difficult to locate. The reality is the system is providing you unverified gibberish. Let me explain. These statements are useless and actually provide you false information. “A "fast" tip is essential for imparting a sharp, erratic, 180-degree action” - The LLM can’t tell the difference between a swim bait technique and a jerkbait one. It combines both into its response. “Using an "extra-fast" rod often results in tearing the small treble hooks out of the fish's mouth” - The LLM can’t differentiate between power and action. “Many anglers prefer a "moderate-fast" or "medium-moderate" rod, which provides a fast tip for action” - Fast tip doesn’t equal moderate action. LLM can’t tell the difference. After looking at the response quickly I can see more errors than accurate information. Imagine now you’re asking this same LLM about how to fix your car, purchase a firearm, or properly design your new shed. As I stated in my first response never use LLMs for real world applications. They functionally have zero idea what they are feeding you. Remove all of the “fluff” from the response and only look at the direct answers. They are almost childlike in the fact the cluster regurgitated what it read on a bunch of forums. It just prettied up the response to hide the nonsense. If you use a LLM to help freshen up your resume, or generate a rough plan for a new essay, it’s great. It’s build to do that sort of thing. You must remember it’s never held a tool or walked through a doorway. It’s read about them but has no concrete idea of what those things are.

I agree with your forum completely. My other hobbies (art/music and board games) are actively hostile to anything LLM.

Let me preface this entire response with an important comparison between AI and a parrot. I work on High Performance clusters and my company sells AI infrastructure. Please save yourself and stop using AI for any task requiring in the world experience. It can’t possibly provide you a valid response. The cluster you queried has never held a fishing rod and has no idea that ‘180 degree action’ on a jerkbait is dumb to say. Back on the topic of actions, you describe an extra fast which makes me think Megabass. Yes, the action on their jerkbait rods is extra fast, but the rod is a medium power and therefore has a very moderate bend under load. The extra fast portion helps more with jerkbaits than topwaters. The extra fast tip is slightly intrusive when working poppers/spooks in my experience. When comparing a Megabass 110 stick and the Otomat (owned both back in 2019-2020) I much preferred the Otomat for anything except a 110. Once hooked up they behaved very similar. The concept some companies use is utilize the fast tip section to apply proper action to the bait and once the fish bites have enough give that the rod keeps it pinned. Some rods will say moderate because their actions are more like a topwater rod, and the manufacturer doesn’t subscribe to the extra fast tip idea. Regardless of brand all jerkbait rods I’ve used are overall moderate or mod-fast in use. Almost all jerkbait specific rods will produce a moderate bend once a load is applied, the difference is localized at the tip.

I believe they are being discontinued.

DAIWA TACTICAL SOFT SIDED TACKLE BOX I used this for a full season as a co angler and it worked perfectly for my needs. Still use it to beat the bank. I keep it lighter than previously but it works great.

After fishing on a kayak for years my suggestion is…. Please wait until you get a couple days on the water. Even better after 5-6 outings. The 1% of things I recommend to buy right now is a good pdf that fits. It could save your life and I recommend not skimping. The other 99% of what you’re going to want isn’t necessary to catch fish. If you go out and buy a ton of gear you might end up wasting cash. Start small, a single Plano box just for the kayak and a soft bag for a towel, dude wipes, and first aid kit. I wasted too much time and money on products I never needed in my first couple months I still kick myself. Over time I built my rig into a fully powered tourney machine but the best method is baby steps.

I’d say a medium is really a medium+. I’ll do my best to explain while I’m getting caffeine into my system. Think about it like this, in the past a medium heavy was usually rated 1/4 to 3/4, not the normal for today 3/8 to 1oz. Medium would be like 1/8 to 1/2. This is why GLoomis one of the legacy brands still use and stick to this rating system. Pick up a 3 power, or medium heavy rod in their line or a Daiwa, Abu, Falcon and you’ll see similarities. St. Croix has always been heavier. What you’re used to in the medium would feel almost exactly like a 3 power (medium heavy) in Loomis. I own an 843 and had a 893. My medium St Croix Legend Elite medium is nearly the same power as both of them. Once a fish is hooked you can tell it’s a smidge less than a medium heavy but it doesn’t give up much ground. You’re starting just like I did, with mostly all St Croix, and it will slightly warp power and actions in your mind when you transition to other brands. They will feel a tad weaker for their printed labels. The first time I swapped my MH Croix to a MHF Daiwa MHF I was slightly confused about why they were so different feeling. My medium St Croix is definitely a 1/4 to 3/4 stick, my old mh legend x was more stout than mh, almost a heavy. I frogged with it. It’s also important to keep in mind the only exception I’ve found outside the cranking models. Any St. Croix XF action will have a much softer tip section than others of the same power in the same line. A MHXF is going to fish true to its power while a MHF will fish over its power rating.

Tom was the first member of the community to reach out and respond to me. He helped me understand what I had been doing wrong with a particular technique and even offered up some tried and true tricks. He sold me a massive bundle of plastics in 2020 or 2021, and after let me know they were his sons who had passed away. I still have so many of those, I doubt I’ll ever be able to go through them. I’m saddened I never told him how much it meant to me during COVID to have access to baits I needed when so much of the world was alone. In the years since joining this community Tom has always been a presence, a voice, and a mountain of experience. He was real and kind in the way so many of us aren’t. The world is a little bit dimmer without him here.

I have fewer rods than in the past and tend to spend more per purchase. Used to run around with 7-8 rods bank fishing just beating them to death. Now I dial in a single rod for a couple techniques and roll with that. Best sub $200 - St Croix Victory. They can be had often on sale and with their stable actions and lighter weight package I don’t often find much that can compare. Best sub $300 - I dont own anything in this range really. It’s either lower end Daiwa/St. Croix for moving baits or high end for bottom contact. Best sub $425 - this one’s going to be dependent on if the Steez AGS falls back to $550 because they could be had a couple times a year at 25% off. In the same category I’d put the Legend Elite and X lines but those are looking to be phased out. Best sub $525 - Specific rods in the NRX+ line such as the 873CRR, 893JWR, 852/872s JWRs. St. Croix Xtreme 7’1” MHXF is also really good. I’d never recommend spend NRX money on an MBR. I own one. It was and is a waste. I keep it around to remind me. I only buy on sale or if I can talk to a shop owner and work out a deal.

I prefer the look of a full grip but don’t really care when fishing as I never touch the middle of the handle.

Since they are Croixs I’d rate them at minimum a half power higher than their ratings would suggest. The 7’6 would be chatter and trap for me. Either mono or flouro. Better distance and action for those types of baits in my experience. Also I’d test the Crig on this. MF for spinners/topwater/jerkbaits. MH for the rest. Are you fishing from the bank? If so I would not suggest using traps or jerks as the chances of snags are higher and the ability to get the baits nearly zill.

Could you let us know the model of the rods? What one brand considers mh might be a medium or h in other brands. St Croix is a big perpetrator of this sorta thing.

I didn’t start using baitcasters until 2019. The time it takes to learn is minuscule compared to how much time we put on the water. If you’re happy fishing, nothing else matters. The gear we use and the games we play trying to find the perfect combination of lure and line are all secondary. Go fish. Have fun. When it’s all said and done the memories are all that matters.

I’ve had a combo sit for months before it was time to employ its specific use. It was my Steez XH Cover Special. I believe I bought and sold a rod once where I never actually caught anything with it even though I’d thrown baits on it multiple times.

That was the IMZ. More a prototype than a viable fishing product. I personally despise the DC whine, but even if it was silent I’d still prefer an SV spool for dealing with backlash prone techniques.

It’s not small for sure but when I pack up for the season i can fit all my remaining spinnerbaits, buzz baits, and bladed jigs. Lets me keep track of what I might need to buy before spring.

Not the person you asked specifically, but I’d absolutely buy a Titan 12.5 again. I felt incredibly safe even in white caps on the TVA system. The boat with rudder upgrade was nimble and responsive. Slow is more about your comfort level and fitness. It’s a big boat. No lying or sugar coating it. If you can pedal a bike solid for 15-30 minutes your going to be ok. If it’s your first time out all year you’re going to feel it in your thighs, but after a couple trips you won’t even notice. I used a bed extender and had no issues loading or unloading as an American sized IT professional. I’m not in shape, and haven’t been in 20 years. As 5by3 said it’s an amazing platform. I went from bone stock for a year to ending up with a spot lock bow mount and graphs by year 4 and the rig was just as stable and great to fish from.

The warranty and actions should drum up more interest but the big boys steal the show. I’ve fished a couple JWR rods in the line and were impressed.