bulldog1935

springs and (E-) C-clips - work in a shoebox. In general, I work in a cigar box to stay organized and impede wanderers.

Some concepts in Japanese just don't transliterate. What does this even mean? however, this was the first finesse rod I imported through a broker 13 years ago, and it's more than earned its keep. Chrome browser translates really well. Google on your phone will let you photo text and give you the translation embedded in the same photo - here's a tutorial from my buddy Tom on FFR https://fiberglassflyrodders.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=70705&p=386364&hilit=Daiwa#p386364

Mine is easy - I fish a lot of freshwater plugs in the salt. This Dog-X is a perfect mullet color. and bronzed hooks were swapped with Gami SpMH The hooks that get removed get spread around on my FW bass plugs - what's with the size 10 treble at the back of a Jackalls? Bigger is better The YoZuri wakebaits on the right got bronze replaced with SpMH, but I've also found that the bright hooks on YoZuri salt plugs will rust after one use, even with a sink bath back at home - more Gami SpMH. Again it's a winter salt thing, but these little FW trout plugs will also get used in limestone creeks for endemic bass on a finesse trout rod. While seatrout will slash into a big flashy lure for a bait ball of winter glass minnows, both redfish and snook are picky about the size of the individual bait they're going to sip. A size 14 treble is pretty pointless, but a size 6 single plug hook will take all species in salt and creek. This one was sight-fished on a fly rod, but in our creeks, 15" bass earn their living on dime-sized minnows

well, no, you find that incipient backlash, and dial it out - then the reel will do the rest. If you don't, it will find you at your light end and with wind. There are 3 types of backlash, start-up, mid-cast, and finish-cast. The point is to find where the mag brake eliminates mid-cast wind backlash on the lightest thing you're going to throw, and with Daiwa SV, that's your setting - you're done. (unless you're going to skip, and that becomes your mid-cast setting) Start here, see if this helps: My modified 4600C that I showed taken apart above is a backlash-proof Ambassadeur, from 1/16 oz up.

Since we're voting here, Daiwa. Set your mag for mid-cast backlash with the lightest thing you're going to throw, and the SV brake takes care of the heavy stuff at start-up. You set up casting reels now without end tension on the spool, and cast distance will amaze you compared to old Ambassadeur. I'll say this again, if Shimano could copy Daiwa's patent, they would. And if you really want to have some fun, they make parts now, including low-mass, shallow spools, that will let you dial out inertia in your old Ambassadeurs and make them function pretty much the same way.

We try to schedule winter salt trips around good tides. Basic gear is dry pants that will let you layer beneath, and at least an upper shell. Mine, Kokatat Tempest, fit like street clothes and are very comfortable sitting in a kayak. Breathable is important, because you sweat when you exert, and you need that to evaporate. Unlike stocking-foot waders with neoprene feet, these have GoreTex feet that fit the same kayak shoes you wear without the dry pants. my buddy Donny with a red limit - you can see from the island beach and mangroves how much lower winter tides are than spring and fall. This was an 18-kt wind to go with the barely-40-degrees, and hell of a fishy day. Dry pants and basic GoreTex upper shell. My Pelagic battle gloves are neoprene and when wet keep you warm, unlike synthetic fleece. A dry suit is $1000 - the dry pants aren't, and the Marmot GoreTex III shell was $130 sierratradingpost color that no one else wanted. The beauty of this, you can peel your layers and still be comfortable when the wind dies and the afternoon warms to 70.

as long as we're drifting off course Phillipson ES66 Registered, and Hardy Exalta The best venerable glass rod I and my girls ever fished, H-I Star glass and Luxor A. This rod was made about the time H-I acquired Harnell. though I'll also admit to preferring any light spinning rod with my green Penn 716

My Elkhound was a frisbee dog, and used to pick off birds in the air and squirrels from trees. For my Akita, it was feral cats.

I came into this thread with the attitude of light-in-hand Toray graphite, and new blank-making configurations can duplicate glass action. But when I read St Croix Legend Glass, I went ouch - - this rod will not disappoint you, and will be the lightest-in-hand glass rod you ever fished.

There's a 30-g (1 oz) weight difference - it's noteworthy on the Steez with 73-g Yamaga Blanks rod, Less noticeable on my 125-g Valleyhill all-range BFS rod, and the Steez makes a sweet combo. Insiginficant on my 140-g Omen Green ML, where my Zillion stays and belongs full time.

Back everything off - push the cast button, and open the spool tension knob just until you just get spool side play. Wind it to click and drive the spool. Back off the star drag until it won't turn the spool any more with your thumb on the spool. You should be able to back the star drag even further, to where the spool won't turn even without your thumb on it. Report back to us how it gears feel in those three different drag setting.

For the original question, seems like 10-lb fluorcarbon or even smaller should be your go-to for finesse worms. Both smaller diameter and denser fluorocarbon is going to sink quicker. _________________________________________________ More proof that mm is a smarter measurement for line diameter than inches. You need two significant digits to compare diameter. Why have your two significant digits behind extra decimal places. Even the smartest, the Japanese approach of using Gou (PE#), which is a traditional silk threat gauge. I fish braided line up to PE#1.5, buy leader #2, #3 and #4, and spool UL spinning reels with #1.5 Toray Exthread (fluoro). The Japanese have their spools coded to quickly match lines.

I'll never get the CT, Air and pre-package BFS fan club - small diameter spools just mean they have to work harder to get the same lure speed and distance. When I bought my Steez and Zillion, it was all about 34 mm, and the great aftermarket spools out there.

@Big Rick I bought this reel for my salt ML application, and was actually why I visited BR forum for the first time. Last May, I under-estimated an over-slot redfish, and before I could get my drift sock in, he was wrapped and broke off. (My buddy saw me leap out of the kayak and go after the tangle just before the break-off, and thought hornets were after me.) I came back casting 1/8-oz Z-man on my MH Super Duty, and quickly discovered it would out-distance the SP., because of the difference in mag brake v. centrifugal brake. It's the only reel that embarrassed me for buying it. I'm sure it works great for intended skipping and pitching, but no, it's not a light-lure reel, because the centrifugal brake is not a light-lure brake. It's a perfect brake for skipping. When I got back to lawn-casting trials, the SD on MH rod would cast 1/8 oz farther than the SP on ML rod with centrifgual brake gradually backed to start-up backlash. I sold the SP and bought my Zillion (added Ray's SV honeycomb spool). First Daiwa I'd bought since they wouldn't support parts on my Millionaire 6H in 1984.

In 8- or 10-lb braid, Sufix 832 is just right. If you go with X-braids, such as Varivas, Yamatoyo or Duel, you probably want PE#1 or #1.2

couldn't pry mine from my fingers, etc. Wow, I fish this reel hard.

borrowed again from YoZuri /Duel international website - applies to USM YoZuri hybrid

Stradic - 3 hard years in salt finesse now, and zero complaint.

Line getting under the spool is completely eliminated using proper manual bail technique - the line is never slack enough to get under the spool. Any spinning reel will let the line under the spool with bad technique and crank-auto-bail close.

If that's a BPS gift card, the Pflueger Trion combo is available with a 7'M rod. The rod is IM6, which should have great action, though may not be the lightest.

I have never seen a day when any species would not take a baitfish opportunity eat over any and every insect (or crustacean). This fly, cats whisker, which imitates cyprinid and poecilid minnow, fished on sinking line, has landed 100 species on fly rod for me - no exaggeration. The Duo Ryuki S just may be the crankbait equivalent of this fly.

Bait Finesse Empire is the place with an onshore stock of great Japanese lures. These are my bread-and-butter for winter salt fishing - they're freshwater trout lures, and I swap the small trebles for single plug hooks. BFE also has the Smith split-ring tweezers for working smaller than #3 split rings, and they have the hooks. The most productive of these are Duo Spearhead Ryuki S 4" Megabass Dog-X on top. 3/16-oz YoZuri Pins minnow on bottom From Nov until April, small glass minnows are the mainstay in the salt, nite-lite dock fishing and daytime tide passes, but the same lures kick butt for creek bass, trout and panfish.

Both plecos and tilapia in the lower San Antonio and Guadalupe rivers resulted from the San Antonio Zoo stocking them in the zoo canals, which they tapped off the San Antonio River headwaters in the 1920s. I suspect this was not uncommon 100 years ago, for biologists to release whatever exotic fish they thought looked interesting. State fisheries agencies have only become cognizant of the risk of biological pollution on endemic species within our lifetimes. Florida has breeding ponds for the aquarium trade, which get washed into the wild every time it floods.

I mentioned I had the Alcance reel for 6 months before I found the rod I wanted for it. The Valleyhill MH has a jade green reel seat, and a green trim band on the rod blank. It was easy to put a splash of green on the avail handle with knob caps and handle washer. The hard part was getting light in to show the colors.

Constant salt air will permeate the best reel, and keeping it sealed is the way to go. If you have 2-pc rods, there are extra-long dry bags from NRS and Lomo in UK I have the Lomo in my kayak bow hold for my multipiece rods in tubes - it stores a gang of them. You would still want a sock or sleeve on the rod to protect the guides while you move them in and out of the dry bag. Theft prevention is also a real need. I used to spend about half-time in Corpus, and would visit pawn shops to look for collectible rifles from the many Gulf coast ranches (found a baby rolling block one day, but it was too pitted). At one pawn shop, I frequently saw the same two kids selling rods to the owner. No question they picked them up sweeping through North Padre Island canal neighborhoods.