bulldog1935

@Bass akwards 068 what you need are 740ZZ, or MR74ZZ stainless steel, 4x7x2.5 mm - they're the same for both Shimano A and Daiwa S. Easy find on ebay or Amazon. I would try first HPRbearings, who will ship from Florida. Here's 10 for $12.99

I've installed too many ShimanoA DaiwaS handle knobs to count. If that last shim washer is either too much or too little installed at the inner bearing, try installing it under the knob spindle screw. I always wonder where these people go...

it's not forming new backlash loops, but exposing those you wrapped over with tight line. Get them out now or they'll come out later to haunt you and lock your spool mid-cast.

@Tail Slap On the Daiwa Coronet, spool flange diameter is 1", spool width is 1/2" They made telescoping rods for them that fit in your shirt pocket and had a pocket clip like a fountain pen. I have a stack of drawings and water colors from a friend, Mark Yuhina. his work from college days has appeared in all the major fishing rags. I imagine he is off with a career in medicine these days. warmwater species painting | Fishing with Fiberglass Fly Rods | Fiberglass Flyrodders Some Painting Works This Winter | Fishing with Fiberglass Fly Rods | Fiberglass Flyrodders some paintings from recent brushes - long time | Fishing with Fiberglass Fly Rods | Fiberglass Flyrodders Mark has a few nice old reels that came from my collection broke in a new old reel | Classic Fly Reels | Fiberglass Flyrodders

somewhere in my kitchen is a bronzed, thin-wire size 8 UL spoon hook that popped out of the split ring months ago - I kind of hope I don't find it.

I'll raise you a bacon-wrapped jalapeno popper and a cherry-glazed pork rib.

The nice thing about Daiwa SV-TW, it extends your lure weight range in both directions generally without adjusting anything. You adjust the mag for the lightest lure you're going to throw, then you can swap lures, and the SV on the spool brake rotor takes care of the rest. You can fish 1/8 oz easy, and with the right rod, 1/16 - swap to 1/4, 1/2, more - no worries.

What you're describing is a spiral cast - what we always used to do with an old Ambassadeur or Millionaire to get line speed without jerk and be able to throw light baits - free shrimp on a bare hook. You can only do it really well standing on the corner of a dock or corner of a boat. You begin with the rod pointing down at 45-degrees and continuously accelerate in an arc behind you to overhead release. If you're really good, you pay a few feet of line with your thumb during that accelerating arc - that's where the real centrifugal force comes from, effectively lengthening the rod, and completely eliminating spool start-up jerk. The feet on the beach version is a pendulum cast. You start with the rod up, push it straight forward to accelerate the bait. When the bait is coming back like a pendulum, you pull the rod backward and continue accelerating that arc into a 45-degree overhead cast.

Abu makes a baitcaster with that finish .... but I'm not sure why.

try being accurate with the 9' rod at 30'. Inshore, we use 7' for blind drift fishing, shorter rods for sight fishing, and 8-9' rods for 100+' accurate casts across tide passes. A cast is a ballistic shot - every 20% increase in lure release velocity doubles cast distance. This is the purpose of 9' steelhead rods or 8'2" inshore UL.

oh you see them, it takes them awhile even to charge back across the Kenai, and they get a second wind when they see you. At deep pools on the Russian, may see a 40-lb king loitering, looking like a parked bus. Self guiding on the Russian in September, landed 24 - every one the size of this dolly - hooked up every 3rd cast. In September, you kick salmon carcasses to step into the river, and the black slate bottom is pink with eggs - the astounding part is they will eat your plastic bead with so much food in the water. I was fished out by 2pm and retreated to the fire pit, a cognac and stogie.

He never described what leader knot broke. Double Uni is easy to tie, and single Uni easy to tie on lures. But both create single bends that can break at the lure eye, and with the double uni joint, the smaller line can cut through the thicker line. My tough-as-nails braid to fluoro uses improved Allbright for the joint, a surgeon's loop in the fluoro business end - then loop on micro snap swivel for spinning or paper clip for baitcast. Yeah, this is a well-rolled Allbright, and sealed with CA. Titanium wire bite trace for toothy fish, but shows the micro swivel looped-on. Another yeah, micro barrel swivels don't get the nod on this forum, but they're tiny, and handle spinner twist. Braid has no shock resistance, and a stretchy leader gives you some shock allowance - Blue Label is my favorite leader. I've broken off too many 30" Alaska rainbows on high-strength fluoro knots.

Our OP is really describing a need for two rods. He wants a good distance rod, and a longer progressive taper fits the bill - it takes a long rod to get the lure weight range he's asking. He also wants a brook trout small-stream rod, and a traditional short para taper UL fits best there. IMO, the compromise rod that will cast 1 g (1/32 oz) is the $100 6' Black Hole 1-5-g that I linked above - here again. That's 1/32 to 3/16 oz. If you want to cast 1/32 to 3/8 oz to good distance, that's the longer rod, but it's not going to fit in tightly hung spaces.

finding stock can be difficult because of mulling through the OOS listings - check this post:

Upping the ante a little, the '20 Luvias looks like a great reel. Somebody has to say Stradic, so it might as well be me.

well duh, the Guadalupe River headwater springs 200 years ago, when both endemic bass and Rio Grande cutthroat trout were native here. I'd need a lookout, though, to watch for Comanches.

Zebco warranty and customer service is great. If he sent it in, they'd probably send back a new reel. My buddy Lou fishes one in the salt without problems.

I'm guessing this is a used reel you snagged - if it's new, take it back. 1:3 dilute vinegar in warm water is always a good choice for cleaning aluminum, because the mild acid helps to passivate the clean surface. I use it on OP's expensive antique Hardy's. Usually with a toothbrush, and that bubbled coating is probably going to need to come off. Once it's clean and dry, you can lacquer over the bare spot with fingernail polish even - a coating that would be easy to remove if it needs cleaning again down the road. Warning - keep vinegar away from bare magnesium - they react vigorously.

that's definitely corrosion. It's called filiform corrosion in coated aluminum - pitting that moves sideways under the coating. Usually caused by chlorides - salt.

I would say yes - that's basically 1 g (0.9 g) and if the rod low-end is not rated for that, a lure that light won't load the tip to get spring and launch from the rod. 8' NS Black Hole Rockfish UL 1-5 g (1/32 to 3/16 oz) This is a cost-effective workhorse rod that has caught many fish including doubles with snook and redfish. 7'9" Takamiya UL 0.6 to 6 g - this rod is over 12 y-o - won't find one exactly like it, again, everything above are shore-fishing rods For your use, I would pick a Major Craft Trout UL spinning rod from this ebay search The Major Craft Troutino rods are right there at 0.9 to 7 g. From what I see, the ebay prices on these rods vary with shipping - economy v. Express (some listings are over-priced, and some high-grade rods mixed in). Other search includes Major Craft bass and rockfish UL My buddy fishes Major Craft Crostage 7'6" rockfish 0.4 to 5 g He and his wife both put it through its paces on seatrout to 22" Here's NS Black Hole trout UL from Maguro Pro Shop in Croatia - a very reliable vendor - I believe their shipping is DHL Express, but they have great English and quick to answer questions. I'll add this about low-grade NS Black hole rods - they don't cut corners on blanks or components - just on manual labor for finishing (unpolished blank).

I used Rod Bond U-40 to fix a broken out cork chunk (maybe covering 1/4 of the handle) on a '40s South Bend cane rod - it held great and went fishing. I sold the rod well with that exception noted, and the guy who bought it was very happy with the repair. Rod Bond does not cure clear, remains slightly pliable, and is very tough. The problem with CA (super glue) is that it dissolves (slowly) in water. Once you have it around, you can think of a lot of things to do with Rod Bond. Here, I swapped in a gimbal-butt on a SW jigging rod, to keep the reel upright in a rocket-launcher rod holder.

Luke, the reel I believe you are asking about may now be the current Daiwa Procyon. Looking forward to your photos. Tournament brings out all the big Daiwa surf reels. Any chance you're asking about Daiwa SS Tournament? (borrowed photo)

You want to fill up modern spinning reels - up to just a couple of line diameters from the edge. 1/8 inch would be a huge waste - what you paid for in this nice was reel is how well it manages line lay to improve your cast distance. if you really want to know exact capacity, it's not lb-test that's going to answer it for you, but line diameter. This online line-capacity calculator is quite accurate.

It has a badge with maker and model that you can read and we can't from your photo. Pflueger or Ocean City - what model? I keep trying to make Pflueger Templar out of photoshopping the badge photo, but that doesn't quite fit with the hardware on the reel - looks more like OC to me. The value is going to be more modest than your dreams and likely more modest than you were told, but it has collector value. The salt reels that are worth a lot of money were benchmade reels like VomHofe, Kovalovsky, the Pfluegers that have foil and lacquer badge like my avatar - and there were some high grade benchmade Ocean City reels, as well. Bakelite side plates are mass production reels and generally modest value. Higher grade reels were made in ebonite and nickel-silver. Also big offshore reels - 9/0 and larger always find a collector's market. You can visit ORCA and learn about them for yourself. you can post a question there among the people who know the most about your reel history and value. There will be somebody there who can glance at your photo and identify your reel make, model, and value - it will still be modest and may be estimated low compared to current auction sales. You can search Sold listings on ebay to estimate value in the current market, which has been strong for the last couple of years.

adding some finesse bass lures and sneaked in a couple of salt finesse plugs. The two trout plugs got tiny FW trebles swapped for salt singles, and the finesse YoZuri wake bait will get salt trebles when I get there. But wanted to show the excellent Jackall lipless bluegill plugs. The no-motors reservoir we kayak is the first thing high in the hill country, and the headwaters of Cibolo Creek - essentially a preserve for our endemic bass. No shad there, but plenty of native sunfish species. I'll also do what most recommend and go up a size on the smaller Jackall rear trebles.