bulldog1935

I don't think the pinion height makes that much difference w/ clutch travel, since it shoulders in bearing #28 - there's nothing but air around the spool spindle (long) end above it. When I bought a used Ryoga for salt niche, I completely rebuilt it because it came from the salt and the copper shields on all the magseal bearings were oxidized black (noteworthy, they all spun well, but I also replaced them all). I learned on TackleTour the '21 Basara Hyperdrive brass gears could replace the alloy gears, and I swapped those - difference on gear teeth profiles is shown by the old pinion laying across the frame. I did give up drag clicker making this swap, but could never hear one in coast wind, anyway, and I can feel drag pay through the rod. This reel also swaps spools with my other 34-mm floating-spool Daiwas.

Gou - - it's traditional silk thread diameter scale. Also represented by PE# It's also the most intelligent way to think about PE braid, things like, what line should I fish, spool capacity, what line does this rod cast best, etc. Note that PE#1 is the same diameter as 4-lb mono. Japan has a line committee with JAFTMA standard for PE braid: A shimano 1520 spool is 200-m capacity w/ PE#1.5 0815 spool is 150 m PE#0.8 (killer finesse spool on 3000-size reel) 1215 spool is 150 m PE#1.2, etc. You also don't have to remember Gou, just get your mind out of lb-test, and think about braid by PE#

Start with the source of backlash, which is bad habits brought from spinning tackle. Wrist-snap is rewarded in spinning cast with added distance. That jerk energy is completely removed by your baitcaster start-up brake, so it adds nothing, and if the jerk is too much for your brake, you backlash. Braid is completely limp, and backlash can create 180-degree loops on your spool that you can't see. Most of the "line dig" complaints about baitcaster using braid are actually backlash that was never found. Your first question - switch to braid when backlash is a distant memory. 20- to 30-lb braid is the diameter of thread - comparable to 4-lb mono. Save it for your next reel, and set that reel up properly with a shallow braid spool. Keeping the loaded mass down makes your spool easier to start, stop, and brake - less brake needed - it all adds up to improved cast distance and reliability. mid-cast hump photo dropped from link below -

had me thinking Japanese AHPL topwater plug

@HawkeyeSmallie ^^ this ^^ I have Twin Power C3000MHG and it's perfect for big fish on finesse tackle both for spool small-line capacity and drag and drive power. Also finesse feel. (I have Vanquish in C2000S size). Vanquish and Twin Power are the same reel design, swap spools, swap all parts, etc. The only difference is weight. Twin Power is formed aluminum body and rotor, which makes it heavier. Vanquish is magnesium body and special-lightened CI4+ rotor, making it the lowest-inertia spinning reel ever made. Start-wind and stopping, the offset mass of the rotor and bail don't push on your hand. The difference is subtle, and you only notice it with another Shimano worm-drive side-by-side.

There are a few 13Fishing fans here - their rods are the least expensive I fish, and I've gone back to snag a back-up on closeout.

Daiwa 7-half is closing out and remaining examples are about $100 reduced below retail. MHB - last rod https://www.ebay.ca/itm/303919160274

Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black isn't black, it's blue, to match gun blue. (too many people have tried it on antique lead-finished fly reels - didn't listen to me - and bemoaned the result) JAX Aluminum Black available from jewelry suppliers is black. Both are sulfuric-acid bronzing the way they did it prewar (before anodize - final prewar coating was lampblack, with a sawdust dip before that) The bronzing result is more like a smut than a coating, but I've used JAX to cover scratches on antique fly reels. Also to passivate newly tapped threads in castings. Here's the result using JAX where I cut a reel seat hood to let it open wide enough to fit a longer 72-mm reel foot on a surf reel (this is before the JAX) I vote with the Black Sharpie guys. Graphite paint is also worth a try.

I found a sweet spot for mine on wakebaits. It's also a good weight-match for large frame, Stradic 4000. what can I say, looked back to some pretty photos

the wide part of the slotted spring washer should be pushing down on the drag star (or Daiwa nylon washer)

Every reel design is the same - the mainshaft has a slot-stop. The slotted washer and main shaft bump-stop on the mainshaft stop-shoulder. There is a difference in the drag star design between different reels. Some reels have threads in the drag star direct to main shaft, some have a geometric cap that grabs a separate drag nut. If I did't take breakcrumb photos, wouldn't have all these cool photos to share... My Ryoga - Daiwa uses a nylon shim to fill the gap. Most will have some sort of spring washer that fills the gap. Note, the gap is controlled by the internal height of the drag stack. If you want the gap smaller (or want more drag before star threads bottom-out), you install new drag washers, or a spacer washer in the drag stack.

should be a stack of washers that need to seat, so something like 1/4-turn past hand-tight - I probably got the feel tightening 1000 M5s on bicycle drop-outs if it's under-tight, the handle rocks/ flops - easy.

handle nut needs to be a little more than finger-tight - just wrench tight - but not highly torqued. Most of these nuts are aluminum alloy, and will strip easily. Save the final tightening in case you need it to align the retaining washer screw hole on the handle, to get the retaining screw started. handy KDW tool I snagged on a Hedgehog order - the socket is 10-mm handle nut

It's easy to buy JDM reels that are readily marketed to US on Amazon, et.al. Might ask yourself if this is a burden you want to lay on your son - especially since you can order exactly what you want from any number of websites for the same cost. I would be checking lure shops for Isuzu 420 or, especially 440 (IAR +high-speed) - and handmade wood plugs while I was there. A friend dubbed Isuzu The Ambassadeur that Never Was, But Should Have Been. You get it on the first cast, and it requires 100% thumb, but they will out-distance a new Steez using same line and weight - it's a feeling of power in a synchro reel - and everything about their function is bench art. If it's something your son wants to do - surprise me with a handmade wood lure.

Thanks. Bright River makes the part, and give credit to Lefty Kreh for making the first for his Ambassadeur - they sell the part both for Isuzu and Ambassadeur I also added the brass reel-seat clevice bolt

Probably not important, but can be cool

check for frame number on the foot, and see if it matches one of the schematics above. regards

We were fishing weightless cigar-cork dropper rigs on salt XUL 15 years ago, and Kamikaze 4-lb copoly from Oz was the way to go. But the swap to 0.1-mm braid changed all that - this is 6-lb in 832, and 16-lb in X-braid.

@Bazoo Modern coated braids and, especially, X-braid introduced in 2018, changed the game for me - I wouldn't touch braid before 832. I mix up kayak fishing with salt shore fishing - distance is always handy, but it's critical in the latter (I build reels just for the niche) If you begin w/ braid on a deep-spool reel, back it with massive mono 20 to 25 yds of 20- to 25-lb mono (not fluoro). Join the braid with a low-profile knot that will pass your line guide. (easiest way to do this is tie the knot first and move the backing onto the braid source spool before you charge the reel) This keeps your loaded spool mass and inertia low and gets those long casts. Shallow PE-special spools are the other way to go, e.g., Daiwa 1000S SV Fishing a tide pass last month, I got to push one of my bench reels to its limit. I was hooking fish on the far slope - says something for the rod. Unfortunately, when the tide started moving, and the fish turned on, a half-dozen dolphins moved in and shut us down. we still had great kayak drift fishing in the 2 hours back to our launch, and a killer fish taco camp meal

this looks too new - this year's model Black Max 3 ______________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________ or this is '21 model Black Max 2 handle nut cover, p/n 65 looks correct only the brake knob is a different part between '25 and '21 models. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/abu-garcia-bmax2-black-max-baitcast-reel-parts-c-187196_194578_203276.html p/n 45 above is an o-ring - if it's missing, that's why your knob cap came off: link to e-replacementparts shows no stock/ discontinued part (bad link) I would throw in this part for a replacement https://www.ereplacementparts.com/oring-p-1435016.html here's the black o-ring on a 6500CS Rocket ___________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________________ older '17 model Black Max doesn't look correct - it doesn't have a retaining spring on the spool bearing, and has different washers.

@ReelDr - you have to be registered and logged-in - go through the front end and send an e-mail to Cal. They had to restrict access this way (all php.board) because AI web crawlers were using 1000x more bandwidth than members. @dk2429 - reduced loaded spool mass reduces inertia for quicker start, needs less brake force, and overall improves cast distance and reliability.

@ReelDr everyone on TackleTour forum complains about the 32-mm spool on new Steez. But the Avail green aftermarket parts for it are cool.

@F14A-B My black Zillion is SLPW, which came without spool and handle (I would swap, anyway). It's based on '22 HD with improved clutch and brass Hyperdrive gears. I wouldn't notice the difference until I fish them side by side, which I did in last year's fall Redfish Rodeo, along with Zillion Silver Wolf. The brass gears stood out for subtle smoothness that I never noticed before in the other 2 aluminum gear sets. Again, after 4 years of this, can't complain about Daiwa's alloy gears - and if I decide, can always swap in hyperdrive brass, which I did when I rebuilt my Ryoga (bought used on Yahoo). Note the difference in teeth profile between installed hyperdrive, and the removed stock Ryoga pinion laying across the frame. Without doubt, the brass gears will keep going harder, longer. Ryoga 1016, btw, also swaps these same spools.

You set Daiwa mag to prevent mid-cast (wind) backlash throwing the lightest thing you plan to throw. I always set Zero for incipient spool end play. SV or MagZ prevent start-up backlash. If you're casting heavy-enough that a low mag set works, you've set it up perfectly. Where I use high mag-set values is throwing weightless fixed inductor (i.e., 4-g spool), and then may need 10 to 12 on mag scalar.

(there's a blood feud in our trout tailwater w/ stripers that wash over the spillway during floods - they'll pluck a 16" rainbow from the end of your line)