bulldog1935

Rod - solid tip is for soft baits. Tubular tip is for hard baits. That said, I catch a lot of big fish on ML and soft baits. You should assume they're not going to reject a soft bait. Simply lift the rod for a light set. After they're running, give a solid set or two.

I just don't use acetone. Mineral spirits for deep solvent cleaning. DA for finish cleaning and drying.

Probably dont want a call for every turd you can turn up on the internet. There's a really good recipe at the top of this page that covers just about everything. I just cleaned 60-y-o polymerized motor oil from the gears and especially shaft freespool sleeve on this reel using mineral spirits, chased with denatured alcohol wash. Isopropyl sucks water from the air, and always leaves water on your parts. Denatured alcohol (isoethanol) always flashes dry.

For the San Gabriel skinny, Living Waters in Round Rock is a great fly shop. They should also be able to tell you about lake levels and ramp access. For wade access, San Gabriel Fly Fishers website has an interactive map. Constant level lakes on the Colorado are Lake Austin and, farther up, Inks and LBJ.

And it still was 50 years ago when it was called Duncan loop. When you get to big leaders, double uni is very restricting through rod guides. Single bend braid also cuts through the mono. I use improved allbright for all braid to leader, been rolling them and shooting fly rod snake guides as long as I've used Duncan loop to tie on flies.

I would guess it's required freeplay is the level wind, when it's not being loaded by line through the LW rider. To me, sounds like one of those don't do that things.

Most of A/E is blocked to US IP address. I went shopping for a cheap "Japan Underground" clone rod blade. I knew a brand, Aioushi, but search only turned up one item, a reel. When I let image search see a Japan rod blade, it identified Ejector Rod. Searching that term got me into Trekking into the Unknown Store, with all things Aioushi, Tickos rods, grips, blanks, ferrules, finished rod blades. $60 minus $8 in coupon and coins, delivered for $10. Takes persistence, but the new algorithm will warm up to you. Worth noting, the best China rod I found, PureLure, also takes and ships US orders... Last month, PureLure Seabed baitfinesse 78ML was hooking seatrout at 180' Also noteworthy, AMO Store will not open for US IP address.

I don't know what your reel is, what kind of brake, etc. Don't know what weight you're trying to throw. I found centrifugal doesn't cast light distance as well as mag brake. The set-up I described for mono backing on deep spool (SDG w/ mag brake) is my 1/4-oz target, but it always surprises how well it casts 1/8 oz. My 1/8-oz target is Zillion w/ Ray's Studio SV spool. Targeting everything lighter than 1/8 oz, I'm fishing Roro fixed-inductor on Daiwa, which functions as linear mag. Same reel set-up, different rod - this will cast 2 g to 130', but I'm fishing 3g at 130'. This will fish 1/16 oz at 90' Set your mag on high-arc casts, preferrably casting something just lighter than your target. Dial out mid-cast backlash. Then take your target weight fishing. If you're getting start-up backlash, it's because you're snapping your wrist - get that out of your cast.

I would do it the other way - loaded beaker first, then pour in the same level of water as the solvent level in the beaker. If your beaker becomes a boat, it will capsize.

Sounds like the disgust factor has pushed out the option, but might be worth a call to Daiwa US. E.g. might be cannibalizing a warranty-return reel.

^^ this ^^ is correct. Alphas SV TW is the only floating-spool 800 size. Daiwa 700 size spool fits several reels, Alphas Air, Steez CT, Millionaire CT. If you don't want to mess with another Alphas SV TW, consider offering it on classifieds - someone may want a spare spool. 1000-size Daiwa is pretty much their benchmark, and current reels will swap MagZ and SV spools going back 25 years.

The roller bearing sleeve should be a separate part - it slides out of the roller bearing with the main shaft, and is keyed to the main shaft on every reel. The roller bearing is press-fit in the side plate - if not press-fit, the roller bearing at least has to be keyed in the side plate. Handy photo is Ambassadeur C3 drive Sometimes the sleeve will stay in the roller bearing when you remove the side plate, but you can't install it that way - you have to remove the roller bearing sleeve and match the key on the mainshaft to reinstall the side plate. But it doesn't show up as a separate part on your schematic.

YGK has begun marketing their product to US, with US website, and even pound-test ratings. Their sinking braid is JDM G-Soul and Jigman. The Izanas weave includes fluorocarbon fibers that give it the sinking property. I've never tried it, but others on the forum who have used G-Soul rate it highly. IMO, it's only really needed in larger sizes. Threadline sizes cut through the surface tension and sink with the lure.

Since I'm here, I'll add about ultrasonic cleaner. Use water in the bath. Put your cleaning solvent and parts in the smallest glass beaker that fits. Cover with a watch glass - you can order a cheap beaker + watch glass set on Amazon. You use very small quantities of reagent-grade* (if you want) solvent. Spent solvent goes into a plastic jug, and if it's not filthy, you can dip a q-tip or paper-towel slosh for non-critical cleaning chores. (spent vinegar and soap goes down the sink) Fumes are nonexistent this way, and you use very small quantities of your quality solvent. Nothing hype, ultrasonic is a tool that's like a million tiny toothbrushes that get places you can't. (You should see what comes out of a bicycle chain.) You soak a bearing in solvent - the solvent doesn't change color - ultrasonic the bearing and the solvent turns opaque with the grease it dissolved. *the reason to use higher solvent grades (distilled), I've found through lab alloy digestion analysis that technical-grade solvents contain production cataylsts like cesium. If you're using it properly, a pint of lab grade solvent should last you several years.

My Daiwa thumb clutches are rock-solid in both positions. There should be freeplay in the LW rider - the gap is in the pawl riding in the worm gear, and it needs to be there. It's not cheap, but KDW makes a metal clutch button upgrade for Zillion https://www.hedgehog-studio.co.jp/product/7772

'85 Mercian KOM - built half-step triple x6 New 126-mm-OLD cassette hubset came from Grand Bois in Japan. building bikes is the other thing I like...

Show and tell of a few recent mods to a river kayak Japan Underground trio. My 1-power weightless-senko BFS got a new half-offset grip that matches the small-frame BC420 reel best, with a bakelite grip that matches the handle knobs - the bakelite is the grippiest texture I've ever grabbed. The half-offset Rivermaster grip places the spool height and Gorilla Thumb rest at the exact right height. The 3-power crank rod, medium-frame Isuzu BC 620 - It got a 4-prong drag star that covers less of the green Target pattern than the fat 5-point star that came on the Headhunters L/E reel. My 5-power frogger and swimbait combo, BC720 (same size as Ambassadeur 5500) on Bright River Hogan got an ebony wood head cap on the Chucker grip, to replace the shiny aluminum.

@crypt We fished through 4400SS on kings, and 4200SS on redfish and sheepshead I fished nothing but Penn until Tica IOS for brute strength and Shimano worm-drive for braid management. A guide buddy at the coast never even rinsed off his Penns - just stacked them in the corner of the garage. Ride hard and put away wet.

I can't figure out why my Blueline has a black stripe. Shimano does make the best front derailleur, though - only one who designs lift into the cage.

Current masthead photo on Headhunters "Japan Underground" website. Limited edition Isuzu DD310 in Headhunters color and marking. Sorry, no clutch A/R or drag. And something you haven't seen in awhile - it has a feed clicker. L/E Isuzu is already redundant. Always been a favorite, Bright River variant of Isuzu BC421 with bakelite side plates - this one does have clutch, A/R and drag. And of course, Megabass Pagani variant of Isuzu BC520X (high speed, drag stack, and IAR roller bearing).

no offense, I don't fish that much leader even on a surf rod. With full-size guides, I fish about a 4' fluoro leader - with micro-guides, 2' leader, so the knot says outside.

I fish river kayak with old-style short rods, BFS-mod Ambassadeur, and PE#1. Bench-racing reels is my idea of fun, and high in my hobbies. River kayak is usually fishing pretty close, though combo on the bottom, 6-1/2' 2-hand rod, will cast 3 g to crazy distance -150', and I've used it for salt shore. At the coast, I need long casts for drift-fishing kayak, also tide passes and shore fishing. I built this mini surf Ambassadeur (completely from parts, no "donor" reel) just for tide passes - PE#1. Just above is Little Cut, where a 130' cast lets you fish both channel slopes and double your fish chance. Found out what it could do last month at Big Cut, where it cast the 1/4-oz plug to 200' - more impressive, the 7'8" tubular-tip finesse rod hooked fish at 180' - - unfortunately, when the tide started swinging out and the fish turned on, a half-dozen dolphins moved in to end the fishing, and we moved back onto Estes Flat, but had a great 2-hour drift all the way back to Palm Harbor.

I fish Japan X-braid across the board, shallow spools, all BFS-mod. Inshore, I'm fishing 34-mm Daiwa and PE#0.8 to #1.2 (PE# is Japan silk thread diameter scale). My raciest with lightest spool and bearings will cast 1/16 oz to 130' But my first baitcaster w/ braid was deep-spool Super Duty G (mag brake). Still a very impressive distance caster down to 1/8 oz, and my first braid was 20-lb Sufix 832 (0.23-mm dia, on Japan thread scale, about #2). Liked this performance so much, bought a 2nd SD on closeout and set it up exactly the same. I backed the deep spool with 25-yds 20-lb Maxima UG mono (Not fluoro), which left room for about 120 yds of the 20-lb 832. The coarse mono backing stacks inefficiently, which keeps the loaded spool weight down. The trick to loading this, tie your improved allbright knot backing to braid off the reel - spool the mono backing onto the top of the braid source spool, then fill the reel continuously under tension - the backing allbright knot is thin enough to pass your line guide. This reel also has BFS spool-micro-bearings still rated to cast heavy lures. I fish this on an "ML" Crowder (really, it's MM) mostly casting 1/4 oz neutral-density jerkbait. Nothing even close to dig - most people who claim dig have braid backlash they didn't find. You might want to visit Texas Kayak Fisherman forum - not as active as a decade ago, but a killer archive, and possibility of meeting fishing neighbors.

that works - spool capacity w/ 10-lb 832 is 140 yds. https://www.pattayafishing.net/fishing-reel-line-capacity-estimator/

C3000MHG comes with a 1215 spool, which the capacity designation is 150 m of PE#1.2. Diameter for #1.2 is 0.185 mm. I recommend using that diameter, or using pattaya calculator to stack a slightly thicker backing braid and slightly thinner working braid: https://www.pattayafishing.net/advanced-fishing-reel-line-capacity-estimator/ This is JAFTMA chart for JDM braid diameter I use braid-to-leader on everything, finesse to surf.