bulldog1935

If Zebco currently follows their past business model, if you send in the reel for repairs, they will send you a new reel with no charge.

I used to work with a fellow staff engineer who said - he's good-looking because his family is rich - rich men get to marry beautiful women. So now, I'm not smart, I'm just rich. My family were red earth farmers in western Tennessee from 1817. Except for one other cousin, I'm the first member of my family who never worked a barge on the Mississippi. Except for my older sister, I'm the first member of my family with a college degree - I attended Vanderbilt on a full academic scholarship. My dad is only rich in character - ok, good genes this was his 90th birthday weekend - if I have any part of his character, I've done well.

AFIK, all AMO spools have fixed rotor, which I think would come up short on TDZ magnets, for everything except finesse baits. Ray's SV is a better all-range spool than Daiwa SV, IMO, and I have 2 of these, on '19 Zillion SVTW and '22 SLPW-Z. The guys on Taclke Tour go so far as to replace Daiwa SV inductor with Ray's because the tapered magnet-end of the inductor acts like Boost to add cast distance. Also note, I haven't tested this spool on CV-Z magnets.

@FrnkNsteen - can't answer that, bro - I'm actually new to Daiwa - 2016 Steez was my first Daiwa since 1978. Looking back, 200 frame numbers had 36-mm spool, and 100 numbers had 34-. I'd also use Jun Sonada's database on JapanTackle to search anything OG Daiwa. Jun has perfect English, is always eager to help, and knows more about baitcasters than anyone else I could mention. https://japantackle.com/tuning-parts/spools-casting-reels/daiwa.html Send him your question. When I asked him about SV Boost spool on TDZ, he provided me a detailed answer about why the brake would come up short on that match.

https://japantackle.com/daiwa-zilliontw2015.html

@Lead Head - no, 34-mm - 1516 is a 36-mm spool I've made a point to buy only 34-mm floating-spool Daiwa - Steez, Zillion, Ryoga 1016. (the Yahoo Ryoga came with shallower, 1012 MagZ spool)

@1984isNOW 100-yds 16-lb mono

@F14A-B Twenty years ago, could drive 8 miles and bust/wade for this 2005 was also the 1st year since 1955 drought of record that the Guadalupe stopped here - it stopped in 7 of the following 10 years.

@F14A-B The entire watershed this side of that divide is depleted by population boom, which doubled groundwater use in 20 years. Just for the last census, TX Hill Country had 15% of the population growth for entire US.

@F14A-B - neither, way up in the headwaters of the N. Llano - closest hamlet is Roosevelt, Texas. Crossing the Junction divide from home is as far as driving to the coast, though.

I'm not sure I know how CCS numbers work. @MickD I have bass rod blades from 1-power to 5-power. Here's 1, 3, 5, that's a river kayak mix for me, covers 3" senko to swimbait. The 5-power Bright River Hogan blade is rated 1/2 to 3 oz, but typical of the Japanese, it will skip-cast 1/4 oz, and fish 3/8 oz all day. One thing they did on the Hogan, the butt ferrule is machined titanium instead of aluminum. The length of these rods, 5'5", 5'3", 5'6" also work perfectly in my kayak niche, and may not be as versatile for reservoir fishing. Regards BTW, my heads-up apparently sold out Shane's stock.

The difference is not wealth, it's imagination.

When I was searching for spincast to outfit my (94-y-o) dad for Arroyo trip, it was combination of Amazon half-price and this guy's videos that caused me to buy a pair of Omega Pro ZO3 two things he does, good job of measuring drag power he also talks about using this reel with braid

High-grade synthetic grease I use MTCW-B and -SW for my two load ranges. Not a specific recommendation, as there is bound to be equivalent grease that's easy to find. All the Japan aftermarket reel suppliers, their bread and butter is motorcycle racing - they understand lube holding up under tough conditions. What synthetic grease doesn't do is turn to wax, so it doesn't need cleaning as often. I was throwing buzzbaits on 4500C a week ago with SiN bearings. The thing is, you can also throw weightless senko with them.

Some people use Cal's for everything - I use it for drag washers - that;s what it's made for, and it works great. https://www.ebay.com/itm/256569214104 I wouldn't use Cal's on gears, but match viscosity to gear load range. I'm sure I buy higher grade synthetic grease than many, but an ounce lasts forever, unless you're working on OP's reels. Daiwa blue will do the job, but you'll also need to clean and relube gears every couple of years - it simply doesn't last as long. While I've gone to silicon nitride bearings for salt, they're certainly the lowest-inertia bearings made, can run dry, reasonably quiet, and higher load range than zirconia.

I wanted to give a heads up for my friend Shane, Graywolf Rods, since he's added an onshore stock of Brightliver (Bright River) grips and components. I've been talking with him - he doesn't have time to offer finished rods, but he offers this kit for a baitfinesse rod: https://www.graywolfrods.com/product-page/bright-liver-chucker-reel-seat-5ft-bfs-blank I've been in the "Japan Underground" market for round reels for a few years, and his price is very good compared to buying from Japan. These are a great match for round reels, since they place the spool in a comfortable thumb position.

Not fair assumptions - I'm not wealthy - my kids are grown. But I know how to make my hobbies work for me. And I put the time into it - especially with speculating, e.g., antique fly reels (not something I do now), it required time, repair skills, establishing a reputation, being plugged in to a community of interest. Good photography helps. The kind of opportunities that came up on ebay 20 years ago (especially seeing through bad photography) don't exist there anymore. This c. 2000 limited, serialized run of Hardy St. George with brass foot and ebonite grasp are worth more than the spendier reels that followed from Alnwick over the next decade. These were supplied in wholesale only to cane-rod builders - knowing to snag one from JD Wagner and let it appreciate in value was key. Looking at something like Ted Godfrey's reel and recognizing what it was at $450 - it was too good to be true, and now they sell new for $2000. I can name several contemporary conventional-frame fly reels selling for the same then that won't bring you $450 today - being able to recognize the difference is important. People who had the ability to add Kineya and Trutta reels from Japan made the same kind of profit. An item doubling your purchase price in 4 or 5 years is not inflation - it's knowing what to buy and when to buy - and especially, what not to buy. Also knowing what and when to sell, if your interests lead you that way. I'll be retired in a few years, and probably start clipping coupons - but I'll go into it with the tackle I want to fish. adding a ps - I'll lay odds that Shimano worm-drive spinners from '18 through '21 will retain their value better and also last longer than Shimano spinners made before or since. My data for this, the mechanism design changed in '18 Stella. They kept the same drive parts in '22 Stella, but increased the spindle length and spool pitch, because they knew the '18 Stella series was over-designed, and they could push it harder. Most parts on the newer series will also work on the older series, giving 10-years parts-support life.

The lightest Tatsu I've tried is 10-lb. Very good low memory, including when I pulled out my Steez 1016 spool that was loaded 5 years ago and stored in a back-up spool can (might have been JDM R-18). Like most low-memory fluoro, Tatsu is fairy stiff and springy (esp. vs. copoly) - jumps off the spool. It will be much smaller diameter than YZH for the same test. The limpest low-memory fluoro I've tried (down to 3-lb) is Toray Xthread - I think it's sold as Solaroam in USM. It also costs more than Tatsu.

Stock handle from ereplacement parts https://www.ereplacementparts.com/handle-assy-p-1827072.html upgrade handle from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/GOMEXUS-Pflueger-President-Spinning-Version/dp/B0CBPFDDCV/ref=asc_df_B0CBPFDDCV

and a thread thesis that was about to be proved wrong for the next 2 years. from the OP of this thread through the middle of 2022, you could sell anything for what you paid, because supply chain fell apart so nothing was in stores, and even if you could find it, the mail didn't work if you know your market, I've resold three bench-made fly reels (and many more antiques) for up to twice what I paid, after fishing them for 4 or more years. The value simply burns a hole in your pocket - you may want to fund a bike, kayak, or firearm.

Gee this thread needs a photo. 3 rods for river kayak 1-power for senkos 3-power for cranks 5-power for frogs

plan ahead and stack line if needed. https://www.pattayafishing.net/advanced-fishing-reel-line-capacity-estimator/

Where camo matters is for duck hunters - it's no advantage for fishing. I have 10' river kayak and 16' coast razor, both orange, and always catching big fish at my knees. Yesterday, two longnose gar followed all the way to my boat, close enough I could have touched them. No fish has better eyes. What's more important than camo is being seen by powerboats. (Nina and I were snapping each other in last fall's rodeo)

I just plugged the price in google exchange rate - but I plugged in the wrong price, JY 22700 for 2000 Stradic.

Assuming you want to fish braid, I'll put up a standard recommendation for JDM Stradic $152 at today's exchange rate. https://www.digitaka.com/item/5/4/1/4969363045836