casts_by_fly

For the expert head turner (and the bucoo pitchin stick) I find 3/8 to be the very bottom end of the weight I prefer to throw on it. A 3/8 plus plastic is fine but a 3/8 hardbait or a 1/4 oz + plastic (total bait 3/8 oz) is going a little too light to truly load up the tip on a cast. You can do it, but if that's what I'm planning to throw all day I'll put it on another rod instead. Even a 3/8 oz chatterbait with a light trailer like a split tail is lighter than I prefer on it. The Cara version might have a lighter tip (I've heard that, but haven't held one). I only just picked up the swim jig rod and have 2 trips on it, but I can see that. I think its going to be a favorite for me. Great 3/8 finesse swim jig rod which is something I fish a lot. I have a buzzbait tied on it right now and I think its going to be great for that. I've read its the best lipless rod falcon makes and I can see that being possible. I think it would also be a great light texas rig rod for a quarter ounce and worm. Have you fished the heavy cover jig rod? I think I prefer it to my Amistad, though they are different rods so it might just be my use cases. I like the amistad a lot but I think the HCJ is better.

I have the expert version of the finesse jig. I also have the Expert head turner. I have the dragger 1 in the bucoo SR. And I have a bunch of other falcons across the bucoo, expert, and Cara lineups. My FJ currently has a 1/8 oz jighead with a 3.3 keitech on it. Great rod for that. The FJ was/is my primary topwater rod for 1/2 oz walking baits and similar poppers. I throw a plopper 90 on it some times. Its a good rod for a 3/8 (or smaller) bladed baits and I've thrown a 1/2 oz chatterbait with a Zako on it to good effect (total bait weight about 7/8 oz) though I'd say there are better choices if you're going that heavy. It throws an unweighted soft jerkbait a long way and while I don't fish senkos I'm sure you could cast one 30+ yards with this rod. Obviously its a great finesse jig rod for 3/16 FJ with a little rubber trailer. It was also my primary swim jig rod for light wire swim jigs all of last year (the 7'2" swim jig rod will take that this year). I'd put the action on the faster side of MF. Its hard to compare to the dragger given the power differences. My bucoo dragger has the same specs as the cara version so I'm going to assume they are similar for action (though different for weight, responsiveness, sensitivity). In other models I've found this to be reasonably close. On that assumption, I'm going to tell you the FJ is not quite as fast actioned as the Dragger, though it isn't a mile off. For what you're describing, I think its probably the right rod for you. The amistad is definitely going to be too heavy. The head turner might be a little heavy, though I think the Cara version has a lighter tip than my expert. The other rod to consider is the Cara medium heavy. Same 1/4-3/4 rating, 2" shorter at 6'8", and a fast action. Touch faster and a touch more power than the finesse jig, not quite as much power as the head turner. I picked one up this year to try with walking baits in the kayak (see if the 2" shorter makes a material difference) but after fishing it a few times now I can see that its a great close quarters rod. It will do everything you're asking and do it very well. Its probably better than the FJ for the 3/0 EWG hooks and light texas rigs.

Based on the 6 and 10 mph reading coming from the sonar unit, I would put zero faith in its ability to tell you speed. You won't hit 6 mph on the highest speed setting with an electric motor as calculated above. The phone reading at 1 mph on the lowest setting makes sense. Getting up to 4 mph in a light canoe is more than doable, though I don't know if 'setting 2' is enough to get you there since we have no way to know what that means in real life. An iphone GPS should be more than accurate enough to give you speed, so I'd use one of the apps you have now and do a speed test. Pick two points on the lake that you can measure their distance. If you have a rifle range finder then pick two points that are a couple hundred yards apart. Use a stopwatch on your phone and make a run between the two points at a constant speed setting. if you don't have a rangefinder, then use google maps and mark two distinct points. Go as long of a distance as you can to minimize error. In practical terms, expect to get up to around 4-4.5 mph, maybe a touch more if you're loaded lightly. Higher thrust motors (and I'd put 55 lb in that category for a light canoe) will get you there faster with a lower setting, but the top end will still be basically the same.

Here’s a few more of the good ones.

A gen 2 Humminbird helix 5 that is gps only (no down or side imaging) will be pretty cheap and should be plenty accurate. A small battery pack and you’re in business. No transducer needed. You should be able to find one for under $200 and you’ll have lake mapping included. It will also have a transducer for sonar imaging if you want it in the future.

Falcon expert finesse jig/top water. 6’10” 1/4-3/4. MH/F. I use it for the same types of baits you’re talking about and it will cast them a mile on 12-14 mono, further than you’ll want to throw them to ensure good hookups.

Hi all, One of my other hobbies besides bass fishing is diving. Pre-COVID we took a 2 week trip every year, usually to the Maldives, and would get in 25 dives or so. I also do underwater photography. I used to do above water photography a lot but not much anymore. Now it’s mostly underwater on our trips. we just got back this morning and thought I’d share a couple pictures. The place we went was largely for the corals and reef creatures. No big stuff, no muck diving, just beautiful reef. I did both wide angle reel scenes and tighter macro shots and fish portraits. For anyone into the technical details, I’m shooting an Olympus em5 in the Olympus housing and using the pro set of lenses (7-14, 60 macro, 8mm fisheye). For anyone not into the technical details, it’s about 35 lb of camera, housing, lenses, and gear that I carry in a backpack while traveling. I’ve got lots more than these, so if you want to see something specific or just more, let me know and I’ll put some more up. Also, apologies on the upload quality. These are all resized down generically so some have some rough artifacts if you look too closely. thanks rick

I just arrived home this morning from 2 weeks in southeast Asia and I experienced the myriad of things already mentioned in this thread. For this trip we were diving is east Indonesia. Our route was NYC to Bali via Singapore, 2 nights in Bali, 3 hour prop plane flight to middle of nowhere Indonesia (plus a boat ride to get to the resort), then a return with 24 hours in Sing on the way. Bali is the Wild West for driving. Much like China or Vietnam- lanes are suggestions and the more aggressive driver wins. Singapore roads are like London- calm, organized, courteous. The respective airports are similarly representative. we lived in the UK for 12 years and traveled a ton both for work and personally. We went all over Europe, Indian Ocean, south East asia, china. Like DB said above, if more people traveled and saw more different cultures I think the world would be a better place overall. Learning and understanding how and why people do what they do or how they are can be eye opening. And noise cancelling headphones are mandatory. I actually travel with 3 sets of headphones, two wired and one wireless to ensure I am covered no matter what device I’m using or how long I need to use it. we just did New York to Singapore direct. Touch over 19 hours and the longest flight currently operating. The dry air was a lot over that time and hydration is a big thing. But it wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be.

I keep trying to convince my dad to put a set on. He’ll be 69 this year and is pretty spry considering how hard he worked his body, but he doesn’t see the need. I get it, he has a system that works for him and that’s what’s important. But I’d rather he figure it out before a busted knee or ankle or worse. can’t wait to see the setup for you. Hope it does everything you’re looking for.

I really like my abu stx gen 4 for that purpose. Plenty of capacity, 28 lb of drag (not that you’ll use that much), good size. Pick them up on sale for $150 or even better. another good option is a used curado e200 (also the chronarch e200 is the same). Tough reel, good reel.

Color pattern looks like a bowfin

I like a palmetto bug. When pulling through grass you either want the skinniest thing to keep it clean or if you’re going to throw chunkier I want durable since every pull through the grass is pushing it down the hook. The palmetto bugs are elaztech and don’t get damaged

Some people like to see what’s in the water column. I do at times. Most times now I’ve swapped. with a 7, I’d say DI will be your best solution.

Medium power with a fast or xfast action.

Couple things. I don’t know your setup so I might mention things you’ve done already. scroll speed for one. It’s related to your boat speed and how fast you want the image to cross the screen. Slow boat and fast scroll means a stretched image. Fast boat and slow scroll means a compressed image with little detail. In the kayak I am normally moving 1-4mph and I’ve settled on 4-6 scroll speed regardless. image sharpening. I like low. It adds just a touch of definition with out going over the top. imaging range. Not sure what size unit you have but especially if you’re running a 7” or smaller unit don’t set the imaging range to be too far if you’re looking for definition and detail. There are only so many pixels on a screen. related, if you have a small screen then go to contour mode and eliminate the water column black portion on side imaging. More pixels on the target areas. you don’t mention the size, but if you have a 5” or 7” unit then you have the compact transducer. It takes good images, but the images you see online will be from the larger units and bigger transducer. It’s twice the power and gives better imaging. I just moved 7” to 9” and it’s a big difference. also, if you’re looking to get detail then what you should do is find things with side scan and mark a waypoint. Then come back over with downscan for the details. You’ll get a lot more sonar beams and pixels on the interesting thing and see it better on screen.

the cleanest way to mix is in a plastic disposable cup with a ball bearing or two and your rod turner motor. Set it on an angle and let it turn for a little bit. It will mix right up without a single air bubble.

Just shorten the list to the falcon and be done.

completely agree with you. Where I am, I never need a full 2oz myself and that’s a lot. But, who am I to judge. I just give the man what he asked for.

A set of these is great because the thin tapered rounded tips let you do detail while the wider ones are good for long wraps.

at 2 oz total the regular amistad in the expert is just fine also. I will throw it with up to 3 with an arig but that’s pushing its limit. It’s great in that 1/2-1 oz weight range (plus bait).

Basic ecology and the food pyramid says that a balanced system will have a wide base of nutrients supporting algae and plankton. That feeds the forage base which feeds small predators which feeds large predators. A system in balance will have a diversity of sizes and a lake with a range of habitats will have a diversity of fishing using those habitats. When you get out of balance, nature will try to swing back to equilibrium. Cut out the baitfish and smaller predators get eaten more. Take the top predators out and then other things take over. Ecology is about finding balance and equilibrium in the system. that’s all a long way of saying that fish life is generally good. A lot of other fish in an area means a solid forage base. A solid forage base is the underpinning of all things for a lake.

Spatula and don’t put bubbles in the epoxy when mixing to start with. A torch or lighter can work to remove them once on the rod, but you can overheat the epoxy quickly and ruin a wrap if you’re not careful. if you have to use a brush, do the same with the epoxy and treat the brush like a spatula. Never actually brush with it. Just dip it in the epoxy and let it run off the brush onto the wrap.

In that case, I’d find a used old town sportsman 120 paddle and add a motor guide xi3 kayak. The motor is $750 brand new. You should be able to find a 120 used for $750, probably with a paddle and maybe other accessories. I’d pair it with a cheaper Amazon lithium for the remaining $200. That would get you fishing in a very capable setup which is stable, has the motor, and has spot lock. Also, the topwater 120 is the same boat as the sportsman 120 and you can probably find one of those also.

I used fishusa from when they first started up in 2000. They were the premier place to get steelhead and salmon gear at the time and I was doing a lot of it. They have always been this fast on shipping. Orders that come in before their shipping pickup might get delivered the next day. Super great team just outside of Erie, pa.

Amistad extra heavy in the expert lineup.