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Motoboss

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  1. Motoboss's post in Waterproof Fishing shoes was marked as the answer   
    I don’t wear mine everyday but going on four years this summer. I do wear Keen water sandals in the summer when the water is warm/hot but gore-Tex tennis shoes rest of the time.
  2. Motoboss's post in PFD was marked as the answer   
    I have faith in 100% certainty,  I have worn a Stohlquist fisherman   gaia-pvc free foam for several years without discomfort or heat issues. 
    I like the canister types but I know mine will float me always, at anytime in any conditions 100% of the time.
    Gotta go with confidence.
  3. Motoboss's post in Shaky Head extra spring was marked as the answer   
    I’d say it’s a replacement that would attach to the hook eye in the event the embedded one breaks, such as a belly weighted hook does.
     
     

     
    Welcome to the site!
  4. Motoboss's post in Plastic Trailer Compatibility was marked as the answer   
    Nice solution but my storage considerations are much too small to accommodate individual containers. I like it though!
     
    Yeah I have rigged lures but haven’t stored several at one time in one container, as I’m doing now with my “next up” box.
     
    I don’t typically put them away wet and saltwater isn’t an issue for me, but I get it. I can see wet heavy salt plastics causing an problem on stored hooks.
  5. Motoboss's post in 2023 Old Town Autopilot kayak upgrades was marked as the answer   
    Maybe the motor magnet connection.
  6. Motoboss's post in Painting a brand new trolling motor (white to black) was marked as the answer   
    There’s no reason you can’t repaint it. Although the plastic parts; head, bottom cover, shaft collar etc, are impregnated color (formed with a white pigment) and should be painted with a “plastic friendly “ product such as Krylon Fusion. 
    The metal parts, just spray with a product like Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy paint, several coats each and should be good to go.
     
    In the prep on the metal parts I would start with a GREEN scothbrite pad then 220 grit if needed (doubtful). Remember, just a light smooth scuff of the factory finish is all that is needed, clean well with acetone and paint.  

    The plastic I would just use a RED scothbrite pad (or green if needed) clean with a 80% water-20% isopropyl alcohol and a drop of dawn dish soap solution, drying throughly.

    All your trying to do is create a textured surface, dulling the factory shine, for the new paint to adhere to so watch too aggressive sanding.
     
    I’ve painted many similar exterior component products without any issues (but nothing submersible for extended time as a trolling motor would be). However after extended use at worse you'd have to touch up, no big deal.
     
    Take your time, GOOD PREP IS IMPERATIVE and give plenty of drying time.
  7. Motoboss's post in Boat Loan was marked as the answer   
    If you have “excellent “ credit find a credit union (join) or your bank and find your best interest rate. BPS can’t make you finance through their bank but they insist because they get points (percentage (money kick back) on every deal they send to their financial partners, so they make money off your payment.
     
    Interest rates are high right now, and going up so find the lowest rate and make your own deal on length, down payment and interest rate. Go in with your financing set and you’ll be in a stronger bargaining position.
    You’ll be much happier!

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