Bigbox99

The Lews for $60 is the best value. The Tatula is also great and you can upgrade it over time with aftermarket or other Diawa spools and parts (elite long cast, BFS ect). If you're just going to fish them bone stock forever the $60 Lews is the best value.

People actually buy Japanese tackle from notJapan and pay huge markup?

You can say guys. Folks lost.

I'm buying all I can find in the 4.8 size

I like these for skipping. They don't back glide but I have other baits for that. These have tight spiral and a slow fall.

Same thing. Bass don't straighten snaps and split rings or break you off on the hookset. Anglers do those things and that's OK. I recognize the user from a thread with a pic he posted of a straightened split ring on a deep crank. He was using 20 pound fluoro on that crank which blew my mind and why I remember it. He also has a thread up right now about breaking off on the hookset and boat flipping fish with 22 pound fluoro. It sounds like op doesn't play around and uses big line with big rods and big hooksets in the quest for big fish. This is going to beat up a bladed jig snap and is outside of what I consider normal use so I don't hold Evergreen at fault. Just pointing out that this is how OP fishes and that I agree he should change out the terminal tackle to fit his needs.

Are you refering to the handle nut?

Change your palming grip to accommodate your preferences. Try a 2 finger in front of the trigger palming grip. This moves your hand further back on the reel which should have a similar affect to moving the trigger forward.

It must be a user thing. I've got a number of fish over 7 pounds on anything from H powered frog rods to 8# mono on poppers. I've never so much as damaged a split ring or bent a hook. It's the angler is doing the damage to the tackle and not the fish. I'm not saying to change your behavior. It's much easier to keep doing what you have confidence in and change the tackle to suit you.

It's a common issue due to the lack of a wire through construction. Don't slap the weeds or slime off the bait. Thats a big trigger for this failure. Another failure with these is when you grind the bait into the bottom the lip will flex and snap at the line tie. You can't slap the bait on the water or grind these on the bottom. They are fish catchers for sure but you can't beat them up. The bottom grinding thing is a deal breaker for some but I prefer to to have a good swimming action bait just off the bottom and only occasionally tickle the bottom on parts of the retrieve than just bash the bottom non stop. If I want to do that then I'll use any old plastic bait for that.

Retie with fluoro like you are a paranoid schizo. With mono you have to get past all the stretch to get to the point where line pressure can deform the line (plastic deformation) at the knot. This helps to protect the line since the elasticity acts as a barrier to plastic deformation and it's why when purposefully breaking off it takes ages of pulling and taking up line with mono to get to the point where it finally stops stretching and breaks off. With fluoro the lower elasticity and low threshold for plastic deformation mean that on every cast, every hook set and every boat flip you are taking the stretch out of the line and getting into plastic deformation of the line and damaging it at the knot. This WILL lead to a line failure at the knot with what seems like a bizarrely low amount a pressure after fishing the line long enough without a retie. Some Jump up to larger diameter lines or try fancy knots but the best solution I have found is to just cut and retie frequently. Fish or not a timer goes off in my head "it's time to retie". Just part of fluoro. I actually switched to the uni knot since it is so easy to tie with no loop I have to pass a bait through.

I put a $1300 ebay engine in mine at 230k. You can pull the engine out of an older subaru in 30 min right out the open hood.

Just get a Ray's spool and be done with it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/256007513104 https://www.ebay.com/itm/123563990369 The $80 is deeper and has a fixed inductor that you can adjust I'm 4 diffrent positions. There is also this one that is sold by the same guy that sell rebranded Ray's Studio spools but I've never seen this one before. This might be your best bet but it's an unknown. https://www.ebay.com/itm/256914045522?_skw=daiwa+spool&itmmeta=01JYKFA8NNNQXWN43M9XDFM3J1&hash=item3bd1453a52:g:xu8AAOSwcuJoE2OU&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f%2Ftn4mlGZVc8wDKAREcg7M%2B2f0p2f1UHqkwZd5Y%2Bm%2BCf2YLhOxV5Y12SjNxIzTmEK0KQGhT60bjdBoXsvmfbXXgpR%2BPk%2B163JQC7PT4fcxxTTg9gV4ZpENTYlZ8DOkUmlvsNm%2BcspbXc%2BJY52EDlC9ETIXE0%2FZ8GYhwRIXVI1Gi57MJQLflXqAyKbCvLkR7F3oCIEKViRsO0Mwvvm0z73%2BPsA0mzMB%2BJELouGSDLee0vEWqFbvUvb7TIsZs9JmBM0%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_iKqe_0ZQ

The JM Carbon Lite combos looks like a decent value. Their normal JM reel it's not a good value IMO. Doyo makes some high end all aluminum low profiles reels like that Coba and Liger that use a metal plate finish. These are high end versions of their platforms and feature a free floating spool with double pinion support and lighter weight high performance spools. They throw everything at the reels and top them off with a metal plate or anodized finish. The JM top tier BPS reels will get the same metal plate finish with a dual aluminum side plate construction (its required for the finish) but internally are the same as a lower offering like the Pro Qualifyer ect. I have wide spool one based on the 2010s era Lubina/Pro Qualifyer I got years ago for my Extreme rod. It's a cool finish but the reels aren't special beyond the dual aluminum side plates and finish.

It's a Doyo and they have been making legit reels for BPS and Lews for a while. I've used their dual brake system on a number of their reels and it works great. I usually run 4 centrifugal brakes on, zero spool tension and adjust the magnets based on wind and bait/line behavior. I dont have the reel but it seems like a resonable $100 offering as do the rods. If you can get the combo for under $200 then it looks like a reasonable deal to me.

Daiwa calls that part an engine cover. They usually use it as part to add color and detailing on a reel. Strange to see one added but be flat black on a silver reel.

Yep. Same as the bonoblock I used to have.

Assuming no line damage I'll go all day on mono but retie every few fish with fluoro or I'll get breakoffs.

My LIN 10 does but that could be part of the Megabass treatment to the Ryoga.

IMO if you want a BFS rod you'll be buying from a Japanese brand. Why buy burgerking brand sushi? Are you sure they even know how to make sushi? There's more to the art than just raw fish. I'm not convinced any non Japanese brand can make a proper BFS rod. MAYBE phenix since they were an early US brand that jumped on the bandwagon when it was well understood but now its so convoluted with trout and seabass rods considered BFS that its wiser IMO to return to form and buy the unpolluted Japanese bass rods. If you're after bass then what are you doing with a 5 '3" trout rod? Or why use a USDM BFS rod that is someone's best attempt at a rod described to them over the telephone?

While I may not agree with it the market driving force is for tiny light weight reels with high capacity, huge drag numbers and big handles. They basically want a Steez CT size and weight reel with a Zillion HD handle on it and 20 pounds of drag at every price point.

The TD-Z would like a word with you.

I just did this for my mom so she can have a bike to ride on her own for fitness and to explore. I got her the Schwinn Vega but I think that is over priced for what it is. I would have been better off with a cheaper Schwinn Junction, some $30 Amazon high rise bars and tan wall 27.5 2.4 XC tires to make basically the same bike for $300. The Vega has steel bars on a $600 Pacific Cycle bike. Yeesh. If it wasnt a brand she likes from her youth and the perfect bike in terms of features of an upright geometry, 1 x drive train (she cant manage what chain ring to be in on a 2x without being coached), 36 tooth chain ring and twist shifter (she struggles with dexterity of trigger shifters after a long ride) then my bike snobbery wouldn't have let me get it. The the left shifter is for the front derailleur. I don't have a 3x but I do have bikes with a 2x and it's best to think of it like a low and high range gearing. You have the smaller chain ring up front to make climbing easier but it's slow and the bigger chain ring is for speed but the pedaling is harder. On my gravel bike I treat the 2x chain rings like hill climb and speed demon modes.

When I was poor I took the quanity over quality approach and had a fleet of 20 years old manual poverty boxes you can keep running cheaply idenfinitely. When one is down #2 becomes the new primary and #3 becomes the backup.

The guide might be broken and shredding the line. This happened to me recently.